Another SA not starting

This is a 1953 SA, Carter "UT" carb with aluminum bowl and cast iron top. Original 6V system with positive ground and breaker point ignition.

I ran the tractor this morning, to use the weight of the front tire to help compact a trench I'd dug and then refilled. It was a little difficult to start but once running it ran like always.

Parked the tractor like always shutting off fuel and elect, then decided about 20 minutes later it was OK to start mowing.

I haven't been able to restart it in the several hours since.

Here's what I've done so far.

- checked spark, bare wire from coil to block, 1/4" gap, plenty of sparks. Did the same with the center coil wire, again lots of spark across a 1/4" gap.

- checked fuel...I think this is where the problem lies. I'll get a fast drip of fuel from the bottom of the carb out onto the ground. This tells me the needle valve isn't seating. I've had the carb apart several times and blown it out with compressed air, carefully checked main jet with a soft wire for blockage. I've had just the top half of the carb on the tractor to confirm that I could shut off fuel by hand-manipulating the float and needle. Bent the floats down approx 1/16" more to get a more positive seating force on the needle. Works great by hand. Put the bottom of the carb on still filled with fuel and it holds....except when I go to cranking, then fuel starts running out the bottom of the carb and stays that way until I shut off fuel at the bowl under the tank. I've had the carb-bowl drain plug out and confirmed that the float is not stuck against the sidewall, I can move it freely with a small screwdriver.

I've made no adjustments to linkages, screws, etc. Tried starting with full choke and no choke.

Couple other things are that I'm not the first one inside this carb. The screws show signs of a lot of action and the two brass meters show signs of attempted removal but the meters themselves look OK.

And yes, lots of fuel in the tank

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Well boys, just like that, not 15 minutes after I posted, its running.

I realized having spark to the center terminal isn't a guaranteed spark thru the plug.

I opened the dist cap and scraped a nasty booger off the nose of the rotor, scratched a little green corrosion off the inner terminals and it took right off on the first pull.

Not dripping fuel but I suppose I can work around that with careful operation of the shutoff needle under the tank.

I would replace the needle and seat. Rubber on the needle gets hard. You don't need the carb to flood.

A t this point, I shouldn't worry to much about the dripping. It's very typical of those carbs when you're flooded after any serious amount of cranking. They don't take much choke in the first place and they sure don't take a lot of cranking befoer reaching that atate.

Just the same, if there is the chance of a float/needle problem, it can't hurt to shut off the valve at the sediment bowl nay time youpark it. A lot of folks do that as just a matter of course..

EVERY one of the letter series carbs will drip if you choke it and it doesn't start right away -- all of them, new or old.

Roy: There is good news. I needed a needle valve and seat. Went to CaseIH, lo and behold thay are selling a stainless steel needle with none of the damn rubber-plastic tips. It doesn't leak either.

First chance you get switch out that Carter.

What's the best replacement for the Carter?

(Zenith?) Seems like I found some of those via an internet search.