high cost of tire replacement

Had to replace one of the rear tires on my Farmall M. 13.6 x 38 6 Ply Rating plus tube and fluid replacement cost me $555, which I thought was really high. Last time I replaced it was about 10 years ago and I seem to remember it cost about $325.

I think this cost is rather high and was wondering what others have had to pay.

I also found out it seems to be getting harder to find places that will come out and fix/replace an implement tire with fluid. I live in NE Nebraska and a lot of the local service/tire stations no longer do on-farm implement tire repair.

Not sure about that size but I replaced a pair of 20.8 x 38 last fall and cost 3 times what a pair of 18.4 x 38 cost fifteen years ago so you probably in the right price range

I got a quote for two 14.9-38 last summer. $1200 or there bouts. Doubt they've gotten ane cheaper since. Fella I'm working for just had two 20.8-38 replaced on his bei Allis articulating, $1100 a piece.

Ben

Got to pay to play!!!!!

This dam H that was suppose to be a cheap boat launching vehicle, is costing me hundreds if not thousands (more than expected) and I have not gotten it to the lake yet!!!!

Needs rear tires, but going to wait til next year :?

I just bought a 13.6-38 Goodyear duratorque tubeless (last years model and price according to the dealer) and paid $371 for just the tire a few weeks ago. At a different dealer I got a Korean made tube for $52, mounted it myself ( with the help of a neighbor) no fluid yet. $423 and it would have been a $40 on farm charge, so with fluid I guess you're in the right ballpark but I really don't know how much filling a tire with fluid costs. By the way, the new price of this years tire was over $425 for just the tire at that dealer and the cheapest price at 5 other dealers for even generic tires was $415 for a Sampson tire made in Asia somewhere. The dealer told me that tire prices have come down 15% since the beginning of the year. But as we all know they went up more than that last year so you can take that with a grain of salt. HTH. ...Randy

I just bought a Titon 13.8/38 for my super m 455.00 to match the other one. The cheap junk were 400.00. Tires for anything are out of sight.
I think it will get worse.

I think it will get worse.

Click to expand...

I don't.

When you price people out of a consumable item, somebody will do it cheaper. The economy won't bear higher prices in my opinion.

Cheapest I could find in NE Kansas was 400.00 ea carry out

Little Farmer: Tire shops doing fluid changes are going to be harder to find. Very few new tractors are using fluid, and almost none used in tractors over 60 hp. When a need disappears, so will the service. Fluid loaded tires have been a major cause of soil compaction, thus the smart farming industry has gone to more rubber on the ground for traction.

If you want to beat the cost of tires go with duals. I bought a new 1066 in 1975, it destroyed it's first set of 20.8x38 fluid loaded tires in roughly 1,000 hours of operation. I dualed the tractor with the same brand and grade of 20.8x38 tires and got 9,000 hours on duals and no fluid. It actually pulled better in field conditions.

I did much the same with a 656, came new with 15.5x38 fluid filled tires. At replacement time I changed them to 16.9x38 with no fluid, a huge change in rubber on the ground. I actually pulled a 5x16 plow with the 16.9x38, never even tried with the fluid filled 15.5x38. Those larger tires made a tractor out of my 656.

Another way to beat tire cost, is keep tractors off hard roads, especially black top. Tractor and tires were engineered for field work, trucks and their tires were built for hard road hauling. I quite often ran my tractors onto a trailer for as little as a 5 mile move to another field. No one was allowed to bring a tractor home for lunch, or even at the end of the day, if tractor was going to work in same field next day. Keep your tractor off hard roads as much as possible, it will save you a lot of money.

Even today I have same situation with these little offsets I run. With fluid filled 9.5x24 they had difficulty with a 2x12 plow. I've plowed some quite heavy going with 12.4x24 and no fluid. Someone asked me if my 130 and 140 were noisy in high gear. I don't know, or at least can't remember, been 5 years since I had either one in high gear. If I have to go down the road, trailer works fine, and I have the truck to come home for lunch.

Hugh:

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to dig out my M rear weights one of these days, and the next time I have to replace the tires I'll just put the weights on and eliminate the fluid hassle.

Little Farmer: Wheel weights won't put more rubber on the ground. Put on a set of 14.6x38