Water in transmissions

I have read several threads about water in the transmissions. How does the water get in there? How do you keep it out? Ron

When I replaced the cover bolts I put a flat washer on the bolt, then a really tight fitting HD O ring under that. Plus a little RTV at the top of the bolt.
I know the tapped holes don't go all the way to the tranny cavity, but if they fill up with water, It can travel sideways and then down.
Some of it is condensation. But I had a SMTA that i drained and refilled with new hytran, NEVER ran it at all but it sat out for the winter. Sure enough that spring I had a bellyfull of water.

Gordo

one way is from condensation, when there is a temperature change, it draws the moist air in and the water condenses inside the trans/rear end case. another is thru the shifter, and then thru bolts on the deck. working on a farmall m right now, there are at least 2 bolts that go thru the deck into the trans, first is the far left front bolt on the deck by the clutch pedal, the other is the left bolt that holds the steering post down.

I suppose the moral of the story is to save fluid changes until the spring if at all possible.

The biggest influx of water comes from leaving the tractor exposed to the elements. If you can keep the tractor in a shed, do it. If you don't have a shed, a carport or lean-to, even a tarp will cut the water penetration significantly. Get a good canvas tarp not a cheap blue plastic thing that'll deteriorate in the sun after a few months.

Keeping the tractor covered up will not only help with water infiltration in the transmission, it'll keep other systems like fuel and ignition protected. The tractor will look better longer, be easier to start, and be more reliable.

Ron: Condensation is the single biggest factor. Problem is worse in areas where there is a lot of temperature fluxuation. This was never a problem when these tractors were worked 300-1000 hours per year. Heat build up from long days evaporated the condensation.

Shade will help, but a heated building in is the only way to eliminate condensation.

drain the water in the spring till you strike oil, then put her to work,,,

I have never checked mine for water I guess I will have to see this spring. Ron

I agree with Hugh. Most of that water gets in there from condensation. If the tractor does not work enough for the transmission to get hot, it just builds up in there and it will do it quicker than you think. I've seen water dripping off my tractors when they got really cold during a cold spell (like now) and then a warm spell comes with humid air and they sweat like an iced tea glass in the summer. This is bound to happen internally as well as on the outside. This is not a problem if the tractor works a lot. I plowed many hours in my youth with an MD and a 3 disk mounted plow. It did not take me long to learn not to rest my feet on the platform as it would get hot enough to burn your feet, even through your shoes. Blocks of wood to rest your feet on or some other fixture not part of the platform to use for a footrest was essential. We never had a problem with water in the transmission though.

Ron: There is one other thing that can put a lot of water in these old Farmall transmissions with gear shift lever on top of transmission deck. Tractors that sit out in rain, will get deflected water running down shift lever and into transmission. I never noticed this much when running 300 and 560 on the farm years ago and clocking 600-1,000 hours per year on each. Interesting part, they probably sat outside 300 days per year.

Today I run my SA, 130 and 140 around 20 hours per year, seems like if I let SA and 140 sit out over night they pick up a lot of water. My 130 has a 6"x6" double layer of inner tube, hole drilled in middle and down over shift lever to spring, with an epoxy around the hole. This runs off the water, makes a huge difference. The inner tube looks ugly, however it works

I try to keep SA and 140 inside as much as possible, however if I do have to leave them out in rain, I put a bucket over the shift lever.

As Haas said, run them long enough and hard enough so you wouldn't dare get on tractor in bare feet or sandles, the problem will go away.

The condensation factor never goes away, probably the worst when temperatures are fluxuating between freezing and thawing. Only way you'll cure that one is take the tractor to bed with you or keep the shop heated. I know this winter we've been getting a lot of freeze-thaw weather, and on those thaw mornings I walk in my unheated shop and tractors will be beaded all over with water. That cast will be same inside as outside. I know there have been a couple times this winter, had I taken the time with a sponge, I'll bet I could have collected 2 quarts of water off the outside of my Super A, most of it on castings. That will only be worse with larger tractors. If it happens 10 times per winter, that can add up to gallons.

I also agee that most of the water in the transmission is from condensation. Years ago my dad had a Farmall H that he used to feed the cattle in the winter. That tractor was in the shed all winter long exept when he took it out to feed the cattle. One day we had a bearing go out in the transmission (in the middle of winter in So Dak). We took the top off the transmission and the transmission fluid was like a snow cone or slush. Also, was grim working on that tractor in the winter without a heated shed to work in. My tractors now are all in the shed all the time and like others said, when the temperature warms up quickly the castings really sweat. Roger