Farmall M Fan belt removal

In the manual its states to loosen the screw on the pulley. How in the world to you get that thing freed up enough to get it loosened? I've been soaking it for 2 days in pb blaster and still can't free it up.


Thanks


T.C.

There is one screw in the pulley. It has a lock nut on it. Socket wrench and extension will work well for the lock nut. The screw should back out fairly easily once the lock nut is off. If it won't....my suggestion would be to apply a little heat from a small propane torch, then more penetrating oil. The screw locks into a groove in the threaded hub of the pulley. A spray can of penetrating oil can be used to get the oil into that groove and then to the bottom side of the screw. This is best accomplished by turning hub so the screw is on the bottom side of the hub.
Once the screw is out, the front sheave of the pulley will spin forward on the threads in that pulley hub. It won't move, however, until the screw is out and the threads are clean. Use a small brush and a spray can of carb cleaner to get the dirt out of the threads on that hub.
Once the screw is out, tap on the boss opposite the screw using a long punch and a hammer. Tap first one way, then the other. Don't give into temptation and hit it really hard; that will break it.
If you absolutely CAN'T get that screw out any other way, you could put the locknut back on it, and weld the nut and screw together. Then, once it cools, it can be removed as an assembly. Of course, then you'll need a new screw and lock nut.

I'm assumeing that you're talking about the set screw on the pully boss. Since you have it soaked, try tapping it , as if to drive it down into its hole with a chisle or old screwdriver. This can usually break free the last resistance on stuck fasteners. Once the set screw is loose you may need to use a large punch or chisel on the pully boss to break it free on the theaded shaft. Good luck.

I've got the grooves cleaned out (actually they were already) I'll keep tryin. I didn't want to use heat if I didn't have to because the belt is still good. If I mess that up then I'm in for no tractor until I get the stupid thing off!!

Thanks


T.C.

Warm it, do not get it so hot the belt melts. The idea is to expand it. Move the belt every now and then when heating. Tap Tap Tap!! JimN

Try using the long punch to drive the movable hub section so that the setscrew is in the middle of the "lug" that it is in. Many times the screw is jammed hard against the edge of the slot [lug] & you have to back the movable hub section away from the edge of the slot.

When you put everything back togather be sure to USE NEVER-SEEZE ON ALL THREADS after cleaning!!!!!! Armand

Just don't get to brutal pounding or using a punch on the flange. Those pully flanges are made of brittle cast iron and break very easy.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm still trying to get it off. I did already try the "tap the screw with a hammer bit" several times. I did it again today. Every time I go to the garage I spray more PB on it. I'll try the torch a little later today as I've still got some pb residue on there and don't want start a fire in my garage, not today anyway!! Hopefully that will let it free. I really don't want to mess with the welding if I don't have to but it may be a necessity.

thanks again for the help.

T.C.

Thanks again for all the help. John D I had to end up welding the nut to it to get it out. Ironically it didn't seem to be in too terribly tight. Go figure. I thnk what happened was the slot was wollowed out and I didn't have a screwdriver that would get enough torque on it without busting my knuckles. Looks like i'm in the market for a new screw.


Thanks again for all the help.


T.C.