22-36 (15-30, 10-20) Crankshaft tips?

Thought I'd be at this point a couple months ago; and I also thought I knew how to make these come out, but I was wrong on both!

Anyway, I have both ends bare except the bearing retainers (and the bolts are out). I sprayed both retainer with PBlaster, tapped the front retainer with a punch, turned it (pressed to the bearing, it turns in the block) and tapped it a few times hoping to loosen things a bit, then put a 2X4 in front of the crank and whacked it good a few times.... nothing.

Next step, I'm thinking flywheel puller over the front [I think it will fit the bolts in the front retainer], tighten it up and whack it good. However, before I apply that kind of force, [b:e47cf518ca]Did I miss a step?[/b:e47cf518ca] Can the cast handle that? Any other tips?

Also, I noticed some random pin head size pitting in a few spots on the crank. It's been quite a few years since I've had to polish up a crank, but IIRC a few times around with a strip of crocus cloth (until there are no "convex" imperfections) and the babbit never knows the difference.

Gettting lots of pictures again, most uploaded to the computer, but still haven't gotten around to uploading any for posting. There's always tomorrow! :wink:

Thanks everyone!

The flywheel puller did it. With much smaller bolts, I was fairly gentle on the puller torque, so I gave the 1lb hammer some fairly brisk whacks before it came.

Now that I think about it, a couple other things made me scratch my head though:

I found no other way to clear the oilpump gear on the cam other than knocking out the tappet guide on #1 intake (with the lifter still in it), #1 exhaust of course I was able negotiate because the bearing was then out. This worked fine [despite my hesitance to put steel to steel (didn't have a brass punch long enough, so grabbed a real soft bolt) to steel and whack it with a steel hammer and hope things move before marring or breaking], but don't recall seeing this noted anywhere, nor does it seem to make sense that it would be assembled in this way, but maybe?

Also [I think I was asking about this before, but don't recall the answers]: if I have the block boiled out, do I need to worry about damaging the cam bearings or tappet guides? It seems they should be fine, but sure hate mess up such things when they're good yet.

Finally, I assume the diametral tolerances for the mains are around .003", but I've never noticed a spefic tolerance published. Anybody know? They probably can run pretty loose, but with it tore down this far, it makes sense to me to replace them anyway.

The bearings are gonna be pricey if you can find them. Unless there is preceptible play I wouldn't worry about them. The guides should stand boiling but there is always crud behind them. I'd remove them. They aren't hard to knock out. Use a drift the same size as the guide and a heavy hammer. More stuff is ruined by too light a hammer than any other way.

(quoted from post at 08:10:03 12/29/08) The bearings are gonna be pricey if you can find them. Unless there is preceptible play I wouldn't worry about them. The guides should stand boiling but there is always crud behind them. I'd remove them. They aren't hard to knock out. Use a drift the same size as the guide and a heavy hammer. More stuff is ruined by too light a hammer than any other way.

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You're right the guides come easy enough I could just as well take them out. I like my 1lb hammer; no doubt too small a hammer makes you get wild and break stuff, but for me, too big messes up my swing too and I get off center whacks.

If the tractor had been previously running, I wouldn't have even pulled the crank for the amount of play it has (at least noting it's expected use), but 30 years of mouse pee dribbling down the sleeves put a little extra humidity in there giving some surface rust on the bearings as well as the play, even without that though, since it had to come this far apart I hate to be penny wise and pound foolish now.

That does remind me of yet another oddity, just to share - not concerned - the cam gear had the oddest wear pattern; pretty tight yet, but wore like it had previously been ran against a gear of half the width.