Totally Baffeled

Rusty R

New User
I recently installed a self energizing alternator of Delco brand on my 40 H. Just 1 hot wire to the ammeter should be all you need. Starts & runs fine, is set up 12v neg ground with a ballast ign. resistor to the coil. Does not charge. Took if back to alt shop, they tested it, works fine. Took it home reinstalled it, doesn't charge at all. Took the same type of alternator off of my boat & put in on the H, doesn't charge. Put the new alternator on the boat, charges fine. Anybody have a clue??? Definately has 12volts at the alt hot post.
 
Not too familiar with alternators but is your battery full charged? Starting takes so little energy out of the battery that maybe it doesnt need charging. Sort of had that problem with my generator some time ago. used lights for 15 minutes and the charging kicked in. Henry
 
With it running, watch the amp gauge closely, and turn on the lights (assumes changing to 12v lamps!!!!). If it flickers for an instant, the battery is being charged, and all is well. Check the charging voltage across the battery, it should be 14.2 to 14.5 Volts. at 3/4 throttle. If around 12.6, it is not charging. JimN
 
Most alternators only first start to charge after you rev up the engine. They have a high kick in RPM. Once they kick in they then continue to charge even at a lower RPM. Just have to goose em to get em going.

Pete
 
I have to rev my Super H with a one wire alternator to 3/4 trottle before it will start charging. Once it kicks in tho it will charge at idle. Are you positive you have a one wire alternator? is the two prong plug on the side of the case blocked off?
 
I have a 1-wire alternator on my M, when I start it, I have to rev the engine to near max RPM to get the alternator to start charging. That is just the way it is with the self-exciting, 1-wire alternators. Just like Pete said, "They have a high kick in RPM. Once they kick in they then continue to charge even at a lower RPM. Just have to goose em to get em going."
 
The alternator is not turning fast enough to self energize and start charging. I have a tractor that I must reach in and pull the governor rod to race the engine to get it to start charging each time I start it. This is not so easy with the H since the governor connection to the carb is enclosed. You can convert to a 3 wire setup on the alternator and eliminate this problem. See Bob M's wiring diagrams to see how to do this. You may also want to try putting the smallest pulley you can find on the alternator to make it turn faster. I tried this on mine and it was not enough even at full high idle.
 
Thats the problem with the 1 wires. If you look at the paper work that came with it, it will probably say something like needs X number of RPM to kick in. Most that RPM is 2000RPM plus which is more then a lot of tractor engines will spin.
 
CAREFUL what you call a "Delco"!

The "one-wire" abominations are AFTERMARKET prostitutions of the original Delco "3-wire" units.

Delco (GM) made them (the 10SI's and 12SI's) as "3-wire units". The aftermarket came of with the "self-energizing" crap to make things easier for the "electrically challenged", and "easier" is NOT always "better"!

There's PLENTY of resources on the 'net (beginning with Bob Melville's site) that will show you how the connect up a WORKING "3-wire system", after you toss the "simple" setup aside.
 
You can get a smaller pulley on the alternator or find a better repair shop that will supply you with an alternator that does not require such a high "kick-in" speed.
I put a single wire Delco on my neighbor's 1940 H and it will start charging at about 60% throttle. My son's M works the same way, also.
Buy quality parts and the result will be satisfactory.
 
The other part of the charging circuit with the "one wire" is the alternator housing and the mount for it. The "ground" if you wish to call it that. That conducting path must be complete. Paint or grease can interrupt it.
 
On my super c I have a delco with the three wires. What I did was I ran a wire from the ground prong to a simple on off switch on the dash and then ran a wire out of the sitchw to the positive terminal on the alternator. All you do is burp the switch and it starts charging at a little over idle.
 
(quoted from post at 18:23:31 08/17/08) I have a 1-wire alternator on my M, when I start it, I have to rev the engine to near max RPM to get the alternator to start charging. That is just the way it is with the self-exciting, 1-wire alternators. Just like Pete said, "They have a high kick in RPM. Once they kick in they then continue to charge even at a lower RPM. Just have to goose em to get em going."
I am not knocking the 1-wire, but this is EXACTLY why a lot of the electrical experts on this forum say it is better to have a GM 3-wire alternator over a one wire. My dog ain't in this fight - I still have 6-volt generators. But, I have had GM 3-wire alternators on other previously owned tractors.... mike
 
UPDATE 7/19 I doubled checked lower water pump belt tension,pulled it tight as a drum skin, not working yet. Tried smallest alt.pulley alt shop could come up with, no help. tried overlayiing the pos & neg from alt to battery with jumper cables, no help. Back to alt shop today & they set me up with a different side plug in, one wire goes to the hot alt post, other wire runs through a diode to the ign switch. Maybe this will work?????????
 

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