62? Lowboy, w/bellymower

jrehm0001

New User
Is there a model number. I'm trying to find a manual or info. I just got this and it will not start, so I need to check the wiring. At the battery there are 3 red wires but when I hit one again positive it sparks sharply. assuming should be black. The starter has a plunger not a key to start it.
the diff sets of numbers is confusaing:
0-7-H? 360719-r1
0-6-H? 251341 r7
trans? 351686 R#
plate= 16649 J
any help would be approciated.
Joe
 
If the plate number is correct you have a 63. It should be 6 volt pos grd, no wires attatched to the battery other than the 2 cables. Pos to ground and neg to the starter. It should also have a pull rod for the starter.
 
"Any help" is about all I am. I don't know what you have, but my 1960 Loboy has a 12 volt battery, negative ground. Originally, mine would have been a 6 volt positive ground (I believe), so yes, I'd check the wiring carefully.
 
There is a wiring diagram on page two of the ATIS Cub FAQ. The second diagram is the right one. It is clickable to enlarge it.

http://www.antique-tractor.com/CubFAQ/cub_faq_2.html#q3
 
Thanx All. The battery is hooked up w/the negative battery post to the frame, so maybe thats why it won't start and the coil is hot hot hot. I'll check it out.
Year? 63? The original color is yellow. Does anyone have a pic or site to see color schemes on this year IH lowboy? Is this a model 140 then?
joe
 
I wonder if we are scratching around here on the surface of a very messed up system.

Do you have a 6 or 12-volt battery?
Any markings on the coil to indicate 6 or 12-volt? external resistor required?
Does it have an original-looking generator? with an external regulator below it? has someone installed a 12-volt alternator?

To your specific questions, a backwards battery won't make much difference in starting. If the coil wires have also been reversed, so the - terminal is connected to the distributor, it won't make any difference. What it can do to the charging system is more complicated. If it won't start, charging problems don't matter.

Running a 6-volt coil on 12 volts will make it run hot. Running a 12-volt external resistor coil on 12 votls without a resistor will make it run hot. Leaving the switch on when the engine isn't running will make it run hot. Otherwise, you have a bad coil. But that is enough guessing. You need to look your system over closely and tell us what components you have. Then we can help sort it out.

Your tractor is simply a Cub Lo-Boy, no model number. A 140 is a larger tractor. Go to the bottom of the first page on the Cub FAQ ( http://www.antique-tractor.com/CubFAQ/cub_faq.html ) to see pictures of each variation of the Cub. There doesn't happen to be a yellow version of your tractor. Yours was probably entirely yellow in the first place.

The main site for Cub information is http://www.farmallcub.com/ . Go there then click on "Forum" to get to most of the information. There are linked sites with manuals and more pictures that you will have time to look at.
 
It is definitely a 6 volt battery. Vreg rft6a5 vroogr, starter delco remy 1109611 2m28. I just picked this lowboy up yesterday. I called and found out that it was running 2 months ago. When tried to start next wouldn't. A mech came, changed 3 plugs (couldn't get the 4th out) but would never start after that. The coil gets red hot. The negative on the battery is the grounded one and has been for 40 years they think. Claim did not remmove the battery when repairing. I get a hard kick in the starter and a stop, no turning over, I pulled the starter and it spins, I can not get the mower engage plunger to go to the rear and pop up, It is in the forward position (wold this affect starting?). can I check the coil? He said he used to pull start it by a truck, but when put in 3rd gear the tires lock up, the wheels will turn in 1st when pulled. I do ot have the crank bar to try to turn it from the front to check.
 
"Leaving the switch on when the engine isn't running will make it run hot."
What switch? on the face it hace a guage, a pull out to start and a dial type? He claims he doesn't know what this dial type thing is. Is this a on/off? which position should this be in. it has not markings.
The coil has the black wire to the distributor # 3898RI, and an orange one into the mesh harness. The starter has the large cable to the positive side of the battery and the other wire into the harness.
If this was running recently, should I still change the battery to positive ground? This means only one wire from the positve to the frame, and the starter cable to the negative post on the battery? thanx, joe

I know, darn newbies !!
 
I just tried to pull start it. When I engage tranny one wheel goes forward the other backwards? Nothing else. Starter still will only hit but not turn over engine.
From the mesh wire with the battery cable has 3 wires , black, pink, and red. On the back of the battery box has 4 wires. I can match the pink and the black, but not th others. I contected those 2. any idea if these might be the issue?
r4509.jpg
[/img]
 
(quoted from post at 08:16:21 08/03/08) Vreg rft6a5 vroogr,
t is unclear to me what you are trying to say here. I guess some of it is what you copied off the voltage regulator but I can't parse out what is.

Your starter is the correct 6-volt starter.

The pull/push switch is the ignition switch. If you leave it on for long the coil will get hot (as for example while you spend an extended time trying but not succeeding to get the starter to turn the engine). The rotary switch is for the lights, probably 4 positions on this tractor. Just leave the light switch OFF (extreme left position) until you get the engine running. The PTO lever is in the FORWARD position to disengage it. Leave it disengaged until you get the engine running. It has no effect on engine starting or operation.

You bought it not running? Have you ever seen this engine run? Have you ever seen it turn?

If the previous owner was pull starting it, does that mean the starting system was known to be a problem?

You had a mechanic come out that changed 3 spark plugs? Did he try to start it? What happened? What did he say about problems with it?

I wonder if the engine is stuck. Have you tried engaging the starter with the clutch pedal down? If the engine isn't stuck, is the transmission stuck in 2 gears? Can you push the tractor by hand when it isn't in gear? When you tried to pull start it, did you start out with it in gear and the clutch down, or just try pulling it in gear? If the clutch is down, it should easily pull with both wheels turning, even in gear.

The 3 wires at the back of the battery box are for the rear light. Ignore them until you get the engine running. The wiring of this tractor is probably a little different from the diagram I pointed you at. There are ground wires for the lights and the rear light was probably a combination red/white light that required 2 wires from the light switch. The 3 wires are for red, white and ground. The other end of the ground wire should be grounded and if you hit it against the hot battery terminal you will get a spark (and possibly an explosion so don't do that).

Does the ammeter (the gauge next to the light switch) move when you turn the ignition switch on? If so which way? If it moves to the right, reverse the battery connections. Look on the coil. The 2 terminals should be labeled + and -. The black wire that comes from the distributor should be on the + terminal and the orange one on the -. If you switch the battery around, make sure the coil wires are as I stated and you will at least have one thing straightened out.
 
* Have you ever seen this engine run? Yes. It was the lady that lives next-door to my Dad. He would use it to mow her yard. He said it ran until he put it in her barn. Then nexttime it would turn over just not start. I can't get it to turnover.

* If the previous owner was pull starting it. No, He said if he couln't get it to start he would pull start it.

* [b:ef78848b82]The lady[/b:ef78848b82] had a mechanic come out that changed 3 spark plugs? He didn't change the 4th, said was afraid he'd break it off. I haven't tried, but soaked it w/PB. He told her it was electrical and not worth the repairs but couldn't get it to start. He ended up selling her a Kabota lawn tractor? ( I know !!).

I wonder if the engine is stuck. Have you tried engaging the starter with the clutch pedal down? [b:ef78848b82]Same one kick and stop[/b:ef78848b82]. He did say he had the engine turning over.
*If the engine isn't stuck, is the transmission stuck in 2 gears? It seems that the clutch really doesn't do anything. I had to jam it in gear when trying to pull start it. Will it start in neutral with no clutch in? I tried the clutch. far left? and nothing really, no turnover again.

* Can you push the tractor by hand when it isn't in gear? YES.
* or just try pulling it in gear? It would pull no problem. When I put it in gear one tire (left) would turn and the right tire would turn oposite direction spitting up dirt..

* I'll forget the back 3 wires.

* Does the ammeter move when you turn the ignition switch on? No, It is at 1/2 right from center, and no change when pull the ingn pull switch.

If so which way? If it moves to the right, reverse the battery connections.
* Look on the coil. The positve (black) is connected to the distributor.

* If you switch the battery around, make sure the coil wires are as I stated and you will at least have one thing straightened out. Meaning? If it is negative ground this is wrong? Maybe someone pulled the battery and installed it back wrong. The negative is a smaller end connection, so it seems like it has been that way awhile.

u can call me collect at 904-225-8634 if you'd like.
 
At this point, I am unclear on just what the situation is. It has gone from running to turns but won't start to won't turn. Something had to go wrong at each of those changes. Either or both might be fairly simple. But I am afraid it will take another pair of eyes rather than another pair of ears to spot the problems.

Who was helping you when you tried to pull start it? Is your father available to help? It sounds lkike he is more familiar with operating it than you are. If not him, is there somebody nearby with some tractor experience?

I don't understand why it won't at least turn over when you tow it in third gear. You might try putting it in reverse and pulling it to see if it will turn backwards. If something has decided to block the engine from turning, a backwards turn might reveal the problem. By the way, when you try pulling it, run your tow strap or chain back to the drawbar. If you pull it by the front, you can easily break the front end loose. Then the guy that said it isn't worth fixing will be right.

Also, you need to get manuals. The first is an Owner's Manual, second and third are the Parts Catalog and IH Repair Manual. They are all available from binderbooks<dot>com. For a start, here is an on-line copy of the Owner's Manual.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cu... Tractor Operator's Manual 9-30-57/index.html
 

Yes, see if you can find someone who works on or "plays" with old tractors in your area to come over and help you. You've got a mess on your hands there, and with the limited mechanical ability/experience you have, you're just going to get confused and disgusted with the whole thing after a short time without direct flesh-and-blood help.

Since the coil gets hot and the starter tries to work, we can safely assume the basic wiring is OK, enough to operate the tractor. Stop worrying about the wiring. It is not the problem.

The next step here is to determine why the engine won't turn. Can you turn the engine by hand with the tractor in neutral? Try jacking up a wheel, putting it in 3rd, and rocking the wheel back and forth violently. The starter may be jammed against the flywheel, and you'll hear it pop out, and the engine will start turning.

Drain the engine oil. If it's thick like tar, black and mucky, has water in it, or has small chunks of metal in it, then it's bad news. If there is no engine oil, then it's REALLY bad news.

If the oil looks okay, put 3 quarts of your favorite motor oil in the engine. It doesn't really matter what you use as long as it is liquid and slippery.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top