Farmall H - a bad pto project gone horribly wrong- plz help

http://dangaus.com/farmallrebuild/farmallrebuild/index.htm

Ok, I have a H with the old style '39 pto and it's shot. It's rounded to a nub so I'm updating it to the "modern" Pto assembly. I have to yank the countershaft and replace it for it to work. I've got the top off of the back end, and in this "belly compartment" I've got every nut off that's there. I & T manual says you can get the main shaft and the counter out without splitting the tractor. I can't get the bearing cage flange out. I've tried everything. I can't figure out what's holding it in, never mind the countershaft. Haven't gotten that far. Also, in paragraph 270 in the book it says to remove the clutch shaft as described in 214, but in 214 it says split the tractor?? I'll split it if I have to (I tried but it's not letting go, and a storm came so that's how I left it). Regardless, I can't get the main drive gear and shaft out. Now that the tractor is split about a 1/4" , the whole 2 shafts wiggles and waggles if I grab them and move them side to side, but I still can't figure out what I'm not doing right. There's a link to pictures here.

http://dangaus.com/farmallrebuild/farmallrebuild/index.htm

Please help me!!!

One note: In the pictures you'll see the drive shaft coupling #18 in the diagram in I & T. I've taken the nuts off the bolts, but they don't move. Are they threaded into the parts they pass thru? It's not making sense to me. How do I get the clutch shaft undone? That's #19 in diagram, page 62.

Thanks in advance.

Dan
Link to thumbnails and pics

Dan,
You have to remove the two bolts in image 96. Compress clutch disc by removing 3 bolts from pressure plate and insert into pressure plate holes to compress pressure plate. Wiggle out the drive gear assy. the main shaft can then be moved towards the front of tractor and removed. This works on SM so I hope this helps.

Pete in NC

I removed the nuts from those bolts, but the bolts don't budge. Are they just frozen from being there for so long, or do they thread out? I had a pipe on them and all there was was grunting. There's not a nut in the belly cavity, and it still don't work. help!

If you're talking about the 4 bolts hold together the coupling, they have a taper fit in the clutch shaft and input shaft castings. I put a 3/4" wrench on the heads and twist them loose. They are not threaded.

Once you accomplish that everything will almost fall apart.

Chris B.

The bolts in the clutch shaft couping are tapered and thus wedge into the holes. They are usually in there real tight, but I've always been able to break them loose (after the nuts are off) by using a box end wrench on the heads of the bolts and twisting. Better to use a 6 point wrench if you have one that fits. You may need to use a hammer on the wrench to jar the tapered shoulder bolts loose. You might as well order new rubber washers for the coupling as the ones in there are likely shot. Also the cup washers are also usually bad. You can't get the transmission input shaft out until you get that drive coupling out. Also, as I recall, you can't get one of the transmission shafts out without removing the brake cross shaft. I believe it is the counter shaft, but don't recall for sure. The manual says you can do it without removing that cross shaft by removing the snap retainer ring on the back bearing, but with all that's in the way, I don't see how that could be done.

When you get the tapered bolts out of the clutch coupling (four of them, fit like tie rod ends)you may have to pull the clutch completely out in order to pull part #18 off of the trannmision shaft.I used a two bolt puller on #18 it won't pull with your hands. Your seal behind #18 is leaking, fix it now if it hasn't already screwed your clutch plate. Good luck ,old tractors sure make your hands black

You don't need to split the tractor. Put 'er back together at the bell housing.

If you can't get the bolts out of the clutch shaft, even by twisting, thread the nuts about halfway back on and give them a good sharp rap or two with a small hammer. They ought to pop right out.

My H's pressure plate didn't have anywhere to put bolts to release the pressure, and neither did the new one but it wasn't a problem. I just slowly released the bolts in order as Dad rolled the engine over. The pressure plate was completely loose long before the bolts were out, and the new plate went back in the same way.

Hardest part is getting that front shaft out. You'll swear there's no way it'll ever come out, but just keep trying different angles and shifting the pressure plate and clutch around. It only comes out in one position, but it does come out, and when it does, it slides right by, not even tight.

BIG brass or lead hammer and drive the coupling bolts out. If it would make it easier I have an old style PTO shaft off a 41 H I would let go of and just get an adapter to use modern equipment.

So do I NEED to remove this coupling with the tapered bolts or something else in the tractor in order to get the top shaft out of the transmission?

Don't know if any my pics will help you any, but here is a link to them.
H Pics

Randy

I didn't have to go that far but I can tell you Part # 18 is on a keyway to the tranny shaft. When you unhook the coupling from the four tapered bolts, pull Part # 18 and then the seal casting, the tranmission shaft will slide forward.