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656 doesn't want to split (pics)

T

TX656

Member
This post is related to two prior threads. "Fouled plugs on 656" and "Houston, we're going in posts." I usually don't like to keep starting new threads but got separated into two threads, one in classic and another in modern?

After I get it thing split in 1/2 I'll start another new post and reply with what I've learned and reply to all the information that was shared in the first two. Thanks for that.

Now, the current problem:

Please help me understand why it doesn't want to split.

I've removed the 4 bolts per side that I thought kept front/back halves together. I tried it with the back end a little 'less' supported than the front and vice versa. I've tried rocking. I tried the winch on the 4 wheeler (very lightly). I worked the clutch pedal. Still no movement.

Are there bolts in the clutch housing I need to remove? Or somewhere else covered up with grease? The front end does sit high due to non-stock wheels/tires.

What should I try next. I don't want to go medieval on it (unless that's how it's done.) As always, thanks in advance.

DSC01684.jpg

DSC01685.jpg

DSC01683.jpg
 
Are there not a couple of bolts that go through from the back/top of the bellhousing into the engine block. At the rear of where your gas tank support comes down? Possibly they just look like they hold the throttle linkage(?) on. Sam
 
As tractorsam says, two more bolts to come out. I can see the head of one of them in your third pic.. Right below the throttle linkage.
 
just what everyone else is saying, but i think one is in the bellhousing behind the starter. you have to pull the starter, and it should be inside there.. i think that is how my 544 was....
 
PS Just went out and looked at my 656.

Get an engine hoist on that block PRONTO!!!!!!!!!!

When you take out those last two bolts, all the engine weight is going to be hanging on the 4 bolts in the front cover.
 
Tractor man is very correct. Another option is to put a strut across the stands you have made to allow the rear of the engine to rest (and be adjusted) non a cross member. The plate holding the rear of the engine is not going to be safe for removal. it might slide rearward and make a big problem. You will need the hoist anyway. JimN
 
What he said.

Or do _something_ to support the back end of that block. The shop manual for my IH544 has you make a couple of angle-iron brackets that get bolted on after the sections are seperated a bit but while the pins are still engaged. They are cut so that ends rest on the frame. You could also use a piece of chain or add some support for the block to your stand. But do _something_.
 
AH never take the bolts out of the frame rails ,m leave them in the rails and thru the backing plate as this will hold the back of the engine as you stand a chance of breaking the ft mounts . Did ya remove the two bolts that are on the back top of the center section ??? Did ya pull the dowel's . YA don't have ti pull them but sometimes they are really tight. So as to the frame bolts put the top and bottom ones back in on both sides just stick them back in the holes .
 
It occurs to me that you probably don't know what I mean above by the "pins" (or "dowels", a IH calls them). Get yourself a couple of the longest bolts of the right size and thread that you can find. Cut the heads off and grind the ends to a bullet shape. Screw them into the clutch housing in place of a couple of the bolts you took out, one on each side. They will serve to keep the castings in alignment as you seperate them and, more importantly, as you put them back together.

Also, I don't know about the 656 but clutch reassembly does not go the way you might think it might on the 544. Read the manual carefully and ask for help here. You can break things by trying to do things the obvious way, at least on other models.
 
The IH stands for splitting these tractors have a "L" shaped bolt to hold the top of the stand to the frame. The unthreaded end of the bolt goes through the bolt hole just above the flat part of the frame to support the back plate as the tractor is split.

The easiest way to do it is like the Tractor Vet says, just unscrew the frame bolts but leave them in the holes. As you start to split it just push them back in again. You're going to want them there anyway when you reassemble it.
 
Would you please add an angle brace on each side to at least the front stand. Just a flat iron 2 inches wide by 1/2 inch thick would be better than nothing. Angle iron would be better. Go from near the bottom of the vertical supports to a convenient bolt hole on the frame. That front stand will take a lot of stress as you move the engine section forward & back together. It is easier to put a brace in the stand than to pick the front section up off the floor. Back stand could use some angle bracing also. Not trying to be bossy here, but we've split several units & there's a lot of weight involved.
 
I didn't have to pull the starter to get that bolt out of my 544 but it might have been easier if I had.

Another point: you mention that the tractor is not level. It might be worth your while to put a wheeled jack under the front end, pull the front wheels, and level the tractor before splitting.

Do you have shop manuals?
 
take the 2 stud bolts out at the starter behind housing and your tractor will fall apart especially if you dont have proper stand.
 
I think what you have there looks fine. It looks better than the wood blocks and bottle jacks that I have used in the past. I would say that a brace on your rear stand would be a good idea. your stand on the engine side looks great, maybe just put some blocks of wood in between wide front and frame rails so it cant tip to the side. To answer your original question, you just missed the two rear bell bolts, take those out and pry it apart. Good luck
 
There should be 2 more bolts in back by the starter that go through the bellhousing. You dod not have to take starter out. Put a bolt in each side of the frame rails and the mounting plate. just leave then out of the bell housing just so they go through the rail and the mounting plate. screw a nut on the dowls pins and turn them to loosen them. They are just pushed in not threaded.
 
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