656 is split...time for new clutch disc, etc? (pics)

Thanks for all the advice on safety, the remaining two bolts, and MOST of all leaving those bolts in by the frame rail. After you guys pointed that out I saw how that would have gone bad quickly once apart.

Prior to tear down I had checked the clutch and the pedal freeplay was adjusted dead on per the IH manual but on some shifts from a dead stop she would grind so I suspected maybe some other components were worn.

The friction pads measure between .370 and .371. I don't know what spec to match this up to in the manual. The pressure plate and flywheel look good. Do I just replace the disc? Looks like someone's been in here prior. Don't know why they didn't replace the rear main then. The rubber on the seal was ancient.


I was surprised to see wear on the bolt heads that ride on the throw out bearing. Are these available separately and do I just locktite them in or is there a different way to address this. Could I weld them up and grind them back down or is that crazy talk? Is this why my pedal measured ok but I would get gear grind?



Found two pieces of steel about 1/8" thick and dimension of a finger nail in the clutch housing. Maybe they are the shipping spacers from the last clutch installed?


Originally I thought I might get by with just rings and bearings. Nope. Check out the stacked compression ring on #1! (cracked skirts on 3 out of 6 pistons).


So I'm pulling the sleeves. Even using the 18" crescent it took a lot more effort than I expected to turn the nut on the homemade puller.


The first one is out. Grinding the plate at the bottom to be just right was kind of fun.


Blessed with 2" of rain this week; pastures are GREEN! Got to make sure I have this thing back up and running before 1st cut.

how is your torque amplifier? I've been told you're supposed to replace its clutch as long as you are in there (after I had ours back together). Some of your grinding could have been from the TA binding. Wouldn't hurt to get an expert to look at it since you are this far. anything excessively worn should be replaced or renewed.

karl f

Looks like the splines are kind of dry. We were told to put just a finger full of high temperature grease on the outside of the splines when going back together. This info could have been changed by now, though. How is the throwout bearing? Looks like it might be hanging up at times.

The buttons on your pressure plate fingers are available from caseih, I just bought some last year when I did a 656.

Replace the buttons as IHparking indicates. The adjustment should be very near what it is now, and use locktite on the threads as the original interference fit might be compromised. The wear indicates that the Throwout bearing was not healthy at some point in the tractors life (I would replace it now for sure. Dry splines are potentially a cause of the disk not centering in the open space when the clutch is depressed. The resulting drag can cause gear clash. Clean them up with a round wire brush, and use a light coat of LPS brand corrosion inhibitor on them and the shaft. The friction pads look good to me, I would compare them to new and if less than .020" thinner, I would re use the disk as is. Pilot bearing replacement is also needed. Looks like a good tractor will result from your effort. JimN

[i:654c4848f0]The wear indicates that the Throwout bearing was not healthy at some point [/i:654c4848f0]

does that grease zerk inside the clutch housing that no one knows about lubricate the bearing, or the throw out casting at the shaft?

karl f

I think it lubes the T/O bearing collar, not the bearing. (opinion based on not seeing the other end of the tube) JimN

If it has a grease zerk it originally had a greaseable release bearing. If the bearing has been changed it is quite possible that the new bearing doesn't have any provision for being greased.