Reassembly of Transmission Driving Shaft Bearing Cariier

RoeFarmall · May 29, 2020

Greetings!

After replacing the two bearings on the transmission driving shaft, I am having great difficulty mating the end of the drive shaft to the roller bearing in the transmission housing (Transmission Main Shaft Pilot Bearing). The roller bearing was replaced at the same time the other bearings were. The bearing carrier will not mate flush with the dry tube mating surface. I do not want to use excessive force to bring the pieces together. Any ideas?

By the way, I am reassembling a 1947 Farmall "M."

Thank you!

pete 23 · May 29, 2020

First year I worked for IH dealer, 1958, learned right quick about installing that shaft. After
that I always took the plate or belt pulley attachment off to get ahold of that shaft from the top
to make darn sure it went in properly.

You can put transmission in 4th gear to help hold the main shaft up closer to alignment but it
will still be a little low. Rubber band on rollers to help hold them tight, but seeing what you
are doing from the top is the right way to make sure no damage is done.

Like I said below, I removed belt pulley attachment from all three of my tractors and this is one
of the reasons. Much easier to remove a plate than that pulley mechanism plus, squeezing between a
close in rear tire when working on many different things on the tractor and that was long before I
ever weighted 150 pounds.

RoeFarmall · May 29, 2020

Thanks for your reply, sir. Currently the tractor is split at clutch and dry tube. Transmission cover is removed and drive assembly is removed, too. Should I remove the dry tube entirely so that I have access to the front part of the transmission unhindered? And, should that input shaft slide easily over the pilot bearing?

Thanks again!

CenTex Farmall · May 29, 2020

What style pilot bearing do you have? are the rollers caged to the inner race or the outer race? Was either the bolt or washer
that retains the inner race changed from the factory one? IIRC the bolt has a thin head due to the lack of space once it's
assembled. Too long of a bolt head or lock washer and the bolt might bottom out in the input shaft.

Only other thing I can think of is if either the rear bearing for the input shaft assembly is not seated or the spacer is not
seated between the front and rear bearing. The lock ring on the front bearing locates the assembly once the yoke is bolted on. I
don't think it's possible to put in on backwards. Do you have the yoke on already?

It should slide on there and go flush without a fight. As Pete says, a little support under the shaft helps with lining it up.
Sounds like you have as much access as you need. You don't need to remove the torque tube.

How much further does it need to become flush?

RoeFarmall · May 30, 2020

(quoted from post at 00:49:44 05/30/20) What style pilot bearing do you have? are the rollers caged to the inner race or the outer race? Was either the bolt or washer
that retains the inner race changed from the factory one? IIRC the bolt has a thin head due to the lack of space once it's
assembled. Too long of a bolt head or lock washer and the bolt might bottom out in the input shaft.

Only other thing I can think of is if either the rear bearing for the input shaft assembly is not seated or the spacer is not
seated between the front and rear bearing. The lock ring on the front bearing locates the assembly once the yoke is bolted on. I
don't think it's possible to put in on backwards. Do you have the yoke on already?

It should slide on there and go flush without a fight. As Pete says, a little support under the shaft helps with lining it up.
Sounds like you have as much access as you need. You don't need to remove the torque tube.

How much further does it need to become flush?

Thank you for your reply!

The bearing, 43357DA, is a caged roller bearing with the rollers on the inner race. I did not replace the thin headed keeper bolt or washer on the end of the shaft.

I did put the yoke on and then set the bearing over the shaft. You may be right about the spacer. I will take the snap ring off the front bearing and check for clearance. In order to seat the shaft (and yoke) fully I lack approximately 1/8" - 3/16"

One final thing, where is the support needed, on the sliding gear shaft or the shaft that I am installing (the input shaft)?

Thanks in advance!

CenTex Farmall · May 30, 2020

So you're almost there. Sounds like the pilot bearing halves are going together. The support is for the sliding gear shaft. It
will droop a little bit due to play in the main shaft rear bearing. If the assembly is going that far in then whatever you're
doing for alignment is fine.

pete 23 · May 30, 2020

Didn't realize you had top off. Did pilot bearing fit into outer
race in gear before you installed it on shaft.

RoeFarmall · May 30, 2020

(quoted from post at 10:13:19 05/30/20) Didn't realize you had top off. Did pilot bearing fit into outer
race in gear before you installed it on shaft.

After a closer inspection I found that the outer race of the old pinion bearing was still in the input shaft. That was the reason that the shaft would not fit over the new pinion bearing. Now, to figure out how to remove that old outer race.

My thanks to everyone who gave me the advice I needed to find the problem!

CenTex Farmall · May 30, 2020

If you can't get behind with a tool you can weld 4 or 5 spots just on the surface and spaced evenly around. When they cool it will
shrink enough to come out easily. Obviously you don't want to burn through the race so turn the heat down.

txdutchman · May 31, 2020

I took some pictures when I worked on our '47 M.

https://ImageEvent.com/texasdutchman/farmalls/farmall1
farmall repair

CenTex Farmall · May 31, 2020

Good photo sequence.

You never know what you're going to find when you open one up! Nearly all of these old fence row tractors were parked because something significant has gone wrong with it. The fun part is finding out what all those wrong are.

RoeFarmall · Jun 1, 2020

(quoted from post at 00:36:20 05/31/20) If you can't get behind with a tool you can weld 4 or 5 spots just on the surface and spaced evenly around. When they cool it will
shrink enough to come out easily. Obviously you don't want to burn through the race so turn the heat down.

Thank you very much for that suggestion!

RoeFarmall · Jun 1, 2020

I have certainly found that out! I restored a 1953 Farmall Super "H" knowing that it had some problems. I purchased the 1947 Farmall "M" with the thoughts that it really didn't need anything done to it. After hearing some grinding in the transmission, I decided to take a look. The "M' is much worse than the Super "H." Ah! The pride of owning an old tractor (and I love it!).

pete 23 · Jun 1, 2020

Sure never thought you had not removed old outer race from input
shaft. There is supposed to be a snap ring holding that race in.
They are often loose in shaft and a good dose of bearing retainer
will hold them from turning.

txdutchman · Jun 1, 2020

Yessir. This one we bought for $100
Was missing a bunch of parts, gauges and lights all busted, no wiring etc. Once we got it running turns out it wouldn't hold 5th gear. Everyone told me it needed a new gear. Nope, just that pilot bearing out. Gear was ok. It also had a lot of other bad bearings in the transmission/ rear end. I had the whole thing apart and replaced everything that was bad. Runs like a top now! It just needs painted now.

Reassembly of Transmission Driving Shaft Bearing Cariier

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