786, Checking To Make Sure This Sounds Like a Clutch Problem

Grinds hard when trying to go into hi, low, reverse, I can start in gear and drive. Removed inspection plate and could see quarter inch or so of space between throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers. Went through clutch pedal adjustment (pedal was only meeting resistance right at the end of it's throw, had been that way for a while, year or more) now have about a half inch of space between bearing and pressure plate fingers. so went backwards there I guess. (Pedal linkage was fully maxed in the other direction before adjustment.)

Just want to make sure I'm right in thinking this is a pressure plate issue before splitting the machine.

Tractor was banged head first into a tree while brush hogging the same afternoon the grinding started. It was hit hard enough to break the radiator/nose casting where it mounts, both sides. Don't know if the shifting difficulty started before or after the smack.

Also oily in bell housing, bearing and linkage wet.

If this is a split anything I should know? Don't have stands would be using a floor jack and wood blocking probably.

Thanks for your help.

If you hit a tree that hard then i would be looking at the platform for movement as if the platform moves it will affect the clutch pedal adjustment . If you do not know what your doing then i would find someone that dose and pay him to do it because there is a lot more to just adjusting the clutch .

Not to mention, it sounds like you just "guessed" and adjusted it the completely wrong way. So it sounds like you don't even have an owner's manual, and without that, you have no hope of adjusting the clutch correctly regardless.

So do what tractor vet says first, then get a book, and try to adjust things correctly. If/when that doesn't help, THEN start working on the more expensive fixes.

Hmm. I have the shop manual and adjusted the clutch according to the book. Started with about 2 1/8 of free travel in the pedal finished with 5/8 as spec'd in the book. Adjusted booster linkage then rocker arm to 90 degrees to sub frame then threaded linkage to bring pedal to correct spec then dump valve and finally trans brake. Think I'm remembering that correctly, anyway went by the book. Adjusted the linkage hoping it would fix the shifting issue, to bad it didn't, seems like it would have been the simplest fix to this shifting problem.

Wondering how close the throw out bearing should be to the pressure plate when adjusted correctly.





Sorry to say the closest expert is 8 hours or more away, I am not in a heavy ag area... and not older ih.

Wondering about platform movement?

Thanks!

Well when everything is correct the throw out bearing sits about no more then a 1/4 inch away if that . And i hate to tell yopu this BUT when you do the adjustments ya get your free travel FIRST then the trans brake then the DUMP VALVE The only thing i put the masuren stick to is the free travel and the rest is done with the help of someone else to shove the clutch pedal down as over time THE BOOK way will NOT get you where you need to be due to ware in the pieces and parts and on shock mounted platforms the movement of it will really screw you up due to the mounts settling and movement . on early models the bell crank was chassis mounted and on later ones they were platform mounted due to problems ,m shift linkage can get affected due to platform settling . And i am sorry to say this that ok so you have the BOOK you still don't under stand what it is telling you as you have done more then needed and done it wrong . SOOOOOOooo you still need someone who works on them and understands what they are doing to get you back up and running and if you live sofar out in the BOONE DOCKS that ya get radio programs two weeks late you would not like my service call rates.

Hi Tractor Vet.
Thanks for your help! Pretty much did the adjustment the way you said. Ended up with the throw out bearing further from the pressure plate then it was when I started. Like I said the clutch pedal was almost all free play when I started, just a bit of action right at the end of travel, and when adjusted to be decent the throw out bearing was further from the pressure plate by about double from 1/4" away to 1/2"+ away.
Grinds hard if you try to get in gear. Think its adjustment or pressure plate/clutch?
Thanks

I am with Tractor Vet on this-if it hit a tree that hard,maybe some thing is broken,allowing movement when you depress the pedal.But,there is noway your pedal could have less free play,and yet more clearance at the throw out bearing. The extra clearance at the throw out bearing means your clutch won't release as soon as it would with less free play/clearance at the throw out bearing. Get that right first,before you replace the clutch.
Have a helper step on the pedal,and release it, while you observe everything that moves to see whats going on.Mark.

Ah no the pressure plate is set to factory spec.'s when built . YOu have other problems and with out going out to the truck and getting into the books as i gave up tryen to keep spec.'s in my head but ball park free travel will be between 5/8th of and inch to maybe 1 inch now as to the clutch booster on that i would have to look and unless you had the booster off for a rebuild then ya never mess with it . . But hey it's your tractor you do what you feel as when stuff starts getting chewed up it's your piggy bank that will foot the bill.