D282 Head Questions

dsp

Member
I finally got a call from the machine shop where I took the 560D's head after the head gasket popped and I need some advice. The head is completely crack free but 6 of the valves are recessed beyond spec, and the head must have been surfaced a few times already since it is under minimum thickness at 4.220 or 4.210(need to find the notepad I had when he called). Also, the head and at least the intake manifold were ported and polished at some point prior to my acquiring the tractor. According to the guy at the machine shop the head is still nice and flat with no warps/high/low spots. I'm not sure I want to sink at least $600 into a head that's below minimum thickness, especially if it's 4.210. That being said, aside from a high pitched hissing sound when the head gasket blew, the tractor still started and ran beautifully. Knowing what the tractor ran like, I don't know if I should rebuild my current head even though it's below minimums or look for another used head with more meat on it and hopefully no cracks. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan
 
Not an expert but knowing the condition of your head I would repair it. You may buy a used one with bigger problems. IMHO
 
Put all new seats in and use it. I'm not sure what my 560 head thickness is, but it's been milled too. All the valves are flush to .010 above now, starts MUCH better than before.
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:32 08/28/18) Put all new seats in and use it. I'm not sure what my 560 head thickness is, but it's been milled too. All the valves are flush to .010 above now, starts MUCH better than before.

Since it already started great I'll just be happy if it continues to start as good as it did before. With all the valves put back into spec it might start really, really great.
 
my machinist stamps on the head how much meat has been removed. but a person never knows how much has been removed other times. pretty hard to fine a decent head. 600.00 is pretty well the going rate for a good job also, meaning seats and guide replacement. valves as nessesary.dont require valve seals on these. i have many 282 engines with no valve seals. the guide is tapered at the top for the oil to run off yet supply some guide lube. plus the head retorque is very very important on these engines. plus do it it four steps to start with. torque is 115-120 ft. lbs. use never sieze or copper coat on the threads and have them cleaned up spotless. i use permatex high tack spray on both sides of the gasket also. get it running pretty warm with the rad covered for a couple hrs and do the retorque. and final valve adjustment to .027 also. you will get about another 1/4 turn on the head bolts. you can check you head gasket just by using a spray bottle of soapy water. you will see leakage as bubbles.
 
I wouldn't get too concerned about the
head being too thin. Anytime there is a
head gasket failure the head should be
resurfaced. A crack free 282 head is
rare. If you exchange it more than
likely you will get back something that
is welded up or full of plugs. Head
gaskets normally just don't blow,
usually and underlaying problem. Check
sleeve protrusion carefully and be
certain the sleeves aren't loose in the
bore. If the sleeves are the problem
getting the head reconditioned won't
solve the problem for very long. It
will pop another gasket fairly quickly.
 
(quoted from post at 02:44:33 08/29/18) I wouldn't get too concerned about the
head being too thin. Anytime there is a
head gasket failure the head should be
resurfaced. A crack free 282 head is
rare. If you exchange it more than
likely you will get back something that
is welded up or full of plugs. Head
gaskets normally just don't blow,
usually and underlaying problem. Check
sleeve protrusion carefully and be
certain the sleeves aren't loose in the
bore. If the sleeves are the problem
getting the head reconditioned won't
solve the problem for very long. It
will pop another gasket fairly quickly.
img]

Thanks for the advice, I need to check the protrusion but the sleeves all felt tight when I first took the head off. When the very back of the gasket blew I still never had any smoke, oil/exhaust in the water or water in the oil.[/img]
 
The early 282 used slip fit wide flange sleeves, head gasket compression ring sets on top of the sleeve flange. Late blocks use heavy press fit narrow flange sleeves and gasket does not touch the sleeves, but seals on the block only. Some early sleeves did crack on occasion. If block is original it should have the wide flange sleeves. My 560 has the late block as it had an IH short block installed in the 80s.
 
If your head is FLAT and no cracks but the valves are set to deep then have new valve seats installed and have the valve height brought back to where they need to be and like others have said look at your sleeves for stand out . If you had a loose sleeve that will usually show on the head but if you have one setting to low then this is vary well your problem with blowing head gskts . also like said about head bolt holes They need to be clean and dry and one more step not many do You need to get a 1/2-13 bottoming tap and chase the hole to the vary bottom , then ya need to chase the head bolt threads and look the head bolts over vary carefully for any signs of stretching . Myself i use copper coat on both sides as it is just my thing and as for thread lube i use a vary light coat of white grease . all the bolt holes are cleaned twice and blowen dry , i use two dowel guides while setting the gskt and head . I do a three stage torque down and once i have reached proper torque i go back over every one of hem again . Valves are set and i get the engine up and running and i cover the rad to get it up to operating temp and let everything get good and warmed up and go back over the head bolts again and do a valve rest . Next it is wise to not turn the wick up more then 15 % and do not lug the engine down as some do . Make sure your thermostat is working , always allow a warm up before working it's bag off and always allow a good cool down , these are not car or pick up engines .
 
This will sound stupid, but is your radiator cap venting
correctly? Check that as well - have seen stuck ones blow out
all sorts of things, headgaskets included. The high pressure
will expose the weakest seal or hose.
 
Worth checking but usually the water pump seal will fail before the head gasket. Then again,stranger things have happened.
 

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