best way to weld new shift arm?

sald

Member
1940 Farmall A
I wanted to know the best way to access and weld a new shift arm on my A.
Dont want to do it while it is on the tractor. I removed the pin,spring,cup and rubber gasket to see a pin that holds the spherical part in place. It looks permanent. So do I remove the whole cover? What would someone do?
There is a short arm that someone welded on in the past. It is too short and sloppy.
 
I believe I was looking at 14. Not sure about 6. 14 looks like it is press fit permanently right at the bottle neck of #7.
I can try tapping at 14 with a small punch but it looks like it was ground on both sides at the factory to the point it is hardly discernable.
 
In the long run you might be better off just finding a whole complete top cover with shiftier. I'm sure there are a number of use that would have one but the question is would we part with just that part
 
I am unsure how it is held in place. The tower could have slots from under the bottom that would allow the pin to be removed when the cover is taken off. Prt#6 is not really
shown in the illustration, it is a different pin with a serial number break I think. The cover can be reinstalled with a thin coating of RTV sealant. (thin coat is the answer)
If the original gasket stays in one piece, re use it. Jim
 
I think I will remove the 8 bolts and take it off. It will also allow me to look into the gear box for an inspection. I have the RTV if needed.
 
Good idea. There is an aluminum oil slinger that can fail on the bottom shaft. It looks like a gear. See diagram. If it is Ok, all is well with that issue. If broken and not
making noise, the issue is PTO or belt work. When the tractor is in neutral, and running, the top rear bearings in the trans can have inadequate lube. So if no stationary work,
no issue. Jim
 
It means the tractor is not moving, but parked and running using either the pto or belt pully to run a stationary implement like a mill or log
splitter.
 
Belt and stationary work is just that. Like say your running a mixer grinder off the PTO so your stationary as in not moving forward or back wards or your running a saw mill or a hammer mill off the flat belt pulley so again your stationary and the tractor is sitting in neutral and that makes it so most of the gears In the transmission are not moving so less oil is being sprayed around in it by the gears
 
Tractors can be used as a source of mechanical power. A feed grinder, or elevator for grain, or an electrical emergency generator, can be powered by the tractor's PTO (Power Take
Off) It is a splined shaft on the rear of the tractor. For these uses the PTO powers a stationary device. Thus the transmission is not powering the rear wheels. Some
applications like a mower are used when moving. Belt work is the use of a (usually) long flat belt to power stationary devices. See link for a Mower application Jim
Mower on an A
 
LOL... sorry you had to write all that. I know about all those things, just needed a context. Makes sense now.
 
(reply to post at 09:08:28 08/24/18)

Pin 14 does come out
Most well used tractors get loose and almost
Fall out
Yours might be rusted in but it’s easier to work on
It while the cover is bolted to tractor
If it’s off of tractor it’s hard to hold
Soak it and start tapping
It will come out
Dugger
 
I will check again. Another member offered a part here, not sure what the part entails but it may be easier to replace the whole thing. I will check in a little while though, thanks.
 
I tried to pm you, but it isnt activated. I would rather not put my address out on a plublic forum.
 
GOOD YEAR
Sure Grip
9 -24

They are badly chewed up. Next spring I will replace them. What makes them interesting? The fact that the tips of the treads go past the center line?
 
Just will not budge. Side facing seat is recessed. The side facing fender is flush with the tower housing. Soaked it and took the fender off. Can not get it to budge.
 

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