IH 444 Oil Pressure Light RPM

Kerplooey · Aug 20, 2018

Quick question; I do not have an oil pressure gauge (yet), but I was wondering if anyone could tell me at about what RPM your Low Oil Pressure Light goes out? As you know, I'm in the process of rehabbing my '68 that I just picked up a month ago, and I am getting my lights all working, and replaced a broken tach cable. I fired it up today to see how things worked, and while my AMP light extinguished relatively quickly, my Oil Pressure Light didn't go out until 2500 RPM. Before I go troubleshooting, I thought I'd ask if it sounded like a problem or not. Thanks!

fastfarmall · Aug 20, 2018

If that was a cold start up, i would say you had a problem,you should have 45-50 lbs cold easy. the light usually takes 7 Lbs,to shut that off!

Kerplooey · Aug 20, 2018

(quoted from post at 18:37:51 08/20/18) If that was a cold start up, i would say you had a problem,you should have 45-50 lbs cold easy. the light usually takes 7 Lbs,to shut that off!

Yes. Its a cold start (70*F). Granted, the oil is black as coal, and I don't know when it was changed last or with what. Here's hoping the switch is weak, but I'm guessing not, being that it does go out out after getting the RPM up.

used red MN · Aug 21, 2018

I have not worked on that model IH tractor but I believe it is possible that the lamp sockets for the
amps and oil could get swapped illuminating the incorrect indicator. With the engine stopped and
the key on find the oil pressure sensing switch on the engine. Then unplug the wire and see if the
oil light goes out. If so I would not continue to run the engine until the oil pressure has been
verified okay with a known good mechanical gauge. If you don?t heed this warning you may find
out the true meaning of...kerplooey... Secondly drip a drop of oil off the dip stick on your finger. If it
quickly spreads out the oil is diluted with fuel. Drain it out and replace it.

Kerplooey · Aug 21, 2018

(quoted from post at 22:35:04 08/20/18) I have not worked on that model IH tractor but I believe it is possible that the lamp sockets for the
amps and oil could get swapped illuminating the incorrect indicator. With the engine stopped and
the key on find the oil pressure sensing switch on the engine. Then unplug the wire and see if the
oil light goes out. If so I would not continue to run the engine until the oil pressure has been
verified okay with a known good mechanical gauge. If you don?t heed this warning you may find
out the true meaning of...kerplooey... Secondly drip a drop of oil off the dip stick on your finger. If it
quickly spreads out the oil is diluted with fuel. Drain it out and replace it.

I'll check those out. How would the oil get diluted with fuel?

Kerplooey · Aug 21, 2018

Just an update. I pulled the wire off and verified that the bulbs are in the correct sockets. Oil does not seem diluted. I attempted removal of the pressure switch, and as luck would have it, even with a backup wrench, the switch is smoked on so tight, the elbow snapped off. @#$%! Even after I calmly put away my wrenches, I attempted to get the switch off the broken elbow. No luck. I'll take it to work tomorrow and try to remove it and put the switch on the deadhead tester. I've got a decent set of extractors for the broken off piece. In the meantime, does anyone know the part number for the elbow, or do most just get a 1/8" NPT from anywhere? If so, any particular metal? Also thinking about adding a gauge as well. Thanks for any help on the elbow, and I'll keep you all updated,

Dave in Southern IL · Aug 21, 2018

Your oil may be diluted but there is a better chance that the base of your oil pump may be warped allowing the oil to leak out around the gasket. I am not sure if the pump on a 444 is the same as on a 424. I took mine apart this spring and polished the base on emery cloth until it was completely flat. I now have 50 lbs. of oil pressure when cold. Look up 424 oil pressure in the archives here. I also made a backing plate to prevent the base from warping again.

Janicholson · Aug 21, 2018

1/8"brass nipple and a 1/8" "T" will allow both. Jim

Kerplooey · Aug 22, 2018

Thanks for the replies. I was able to check the switch today, and it opens at an uncalibrated (shop air regulator) 15-20 psi. I would think that's well within where it should be. So, I may still check the engine pressure with a gauge, but I think that Dave is probably right; I've got an oil pump issue. I'll keep you all updated as to my next move.

Kerplooey · Aug 22, 2018

I forgot to ask; how does the shimming get done via the oil pump cover gasket? If you need more spacing, do you just add stack gaskets, or is there a procedure somewhere? I have all of the manuals except the engine manuals, which I will be ordering as soon as funding allows.

Dave in Southern IL · Aug 22, 2018

There is no need to shim. Use fine emery cloth laying on a plane of glass so it is
perfectly flat. Polish the entire bottom plate until the whole thing is shiny and
smooth. Replace the gasket (from Case-IH),that will provide the necessary clearance.
Dave

Kerplooey · Aug 22, 2018

Ok. Thanks, Dave. Before I get too crazy, there isn't an adjustment somewhere, is there?

Kerplooey · Aug 22, 2018

Nevermind. I found the figure IH51 of the oil pump in the Shop Manual. Spring is internal. Will try and adapt a gauge in tomorrow... I'm sure it's low pressure and not indication at this point. Just going for a "before" reading at this point. I don't think fresh oil is going to fix this problem.

Kerplooey · Aug 24, 2018

Just another update; I got the gauge on and replaced the previously broken elbow. From a cold start and warmed up enough not to cough and sputter (still needs some tuning), at 500 RPM I have 9 psi, at 1,000 RPM I have 19 psi, and at 1500 RPM I have about 27 psi. I didn't want to go any further with the throttle, even though the previous owner operated like this for who knows how long. I believe I may have been looking at the Tach wrong in my OP when I stayed that I was at 2500 RPM when the light went out. I believe I was actually at 1500. So, I believe that, while my pressure switch may be opening a tad late, I still have half the Oil Pressure I should. I'm prepared to drop the pan, but thought I'd share these results before getting into it tomorrow. I have a fresh jug of SAE 30, but I hate to try a wasteful oil change if you all don't thinking worth it.If you have any thoughts, please share. Thanks!

Janicholson · Aug 24, 2018

Put in 15-40 diesel spec oil Rotella, or Delo are fine brands. (do the pump, but don't put 30 wt in it). Jim

Kerplooey · Aug 25, 2018

About to get into this thing. Quick question; In order to check the main and rod bearings, would a simple grab and shake check be sufficient, or do I need to take the rods loose and mic everything? I'm not looking to find extra work right now, as I'm just trying to get some use out of it and one day do a restoration. However, I also want to do right by the machine.

Kerplooey · Aug 25, 2018

Hey all. Was about to drop the pan, and thought to pull the dipstick out while its running. I have a fair amount of air pumping out of the dipstick tube, and it kind of pulses. I'm thinking this is not normal and I probably have a ring issue. Think I should still go after the pump? Crazy part is, it doesn't smoke much at all.

Kerplooey · Aug 25, 2018

Ok, so I got the pan dropped. Talk about a can of worms. I pulled the drain plug, and there was so much carbon in the bottom that the drain hole was covered over, and no oil came out! What the...?! Once cleared the carbon "plug". It drained freely. Being there was so much there, I opted to drop the pan, and " Holy Carbon, Batman!" There was so much in the bottom, I could have planted next years crop in there. Probably 1/2" deep or more had settled. I ran a magnet over and through it and nothing was magnetic to my surprise. I did find that the oil pump housing is warped, though. So, as I was tilling "the back 40" in the oil pan with my finger, I found a 9/16" nut! Again.. what the... who the... sonofa..! The nut looked beat up, so I looked around the bottom, end and all of the connecting rod nuts are there. Since I have a leaky valve cover, I went ahead and pulled it. Everything top side looks intact, and has its hardware, so I'm at a loss now as far as the nut goes. I grabbed the connecting rods, and while they move for and aft, the radial play is minimal to nil. On #1 and #4 I can hear oil "squish" when I manually apply radial pressure to them, but can't feel any play. So, I'm now at a stopping point to consider options. I am open to suggestions and advice from those who know. Thanks!

AlinMO · Aug 25, 2018

I would fix the pump as several have described previously. Clean the oil pan, put it back together. Then start it to see what you have. That maybe all it needs.

Kerplooey · Aug 25, 2018

Thanks, Alin. That's pretty much the way I was leaning. If I were to go after the rings, I think it would be best to pull the block and have the cylinders done professionally. What do think about connecting rod bearings (#1 & #4)?

Kerplooey · Sep 10, 2018

Just thought I'd bring this thread to a close;
Finally got everything back together. Fabbed a reinforcement for the pump end plate from .250' steel, and used the OE pump gasket. Put the pan back on, filled with Rotella 15W40, and a bottle of Lucas. Once warmed up, I have about 30 psi at idle, and 45-50 psi with the throttle advanced just a touch, and stays there throughout throttle range. Still have some vlowby from that #1 cylinder, and I had soaked it with some MMO and PB Blaster, which would pretty much run out the bottom with the pan off. Hoping for some magic in a bottle from the Lucas to help those rings out. All in all, I'm calling this battle a victory. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!

AlinMO · Sep 10, 2018

Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Glad it was an easy cheap fix.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 11, 2018

I see nobody addressed your concern with rings.

First off, there is always going to be some blowby, even on a fresh new engine. That in and of itself does not warrant tearing the engine down and spending thousands on machine work and new parts. If it runs good and doesn't use a ton of oil, run it.

Second off, piston rings have NOTHING to do with oil pressure.

Kerplooey · Oct 6, 2018

Well, I'm back.

So, today was the first day after other repairs that I was really able to get out and let her stretch her legs a little. The FIL's place is about 1/2 mile away, and I took the tractor over to give it the hit pressure wash treatment to get all of the nasties off. Got her back home and decided to use the loader a bit to get rid of the weeds that wifey pulled out of the flower beds. Lo and behold, the Oil Pressure light is coming on again. :evil: I didn't bother putting the gauge back on to check the pressure. Any thoughts? I did the mod to the oil pump as recommended, and put. Rotella 15W40 in with a bottle of Lucas. I did find it odd that when I checked the oil, it was still clear. I fully expected it to be dark. Any thoughts? I don't know where to go from here other than check the Oil Pressure with a gauge.

IH 444 Oil Pressure Light RPM

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