Splitting a CaseIH 585 for T.O. bearing replacement

Posted earlier re: clutch, pulled the bottom cover and balls and shards fell out. T.O. bearing disintegrated, so that's pretty clear.

Also, there's a lot of thick black oil that's been running out of the case since this rapid failure. I can't say where it's coming from, but it is much darker and thicker than the crankcase oil.

So, a split. Any quick do's and don'ts? I've split Farmall A's and Cubs, and a B-275.

And when I get in, it's inspection time. Assume i can replace rear main seal and perhaps a transmission seal to cure the oil leakage.

Hints?

C

2wd ROPS tractor should be pretty straight forward, remove loader mounts if fitted.

FWA cab tractor might be different.

Dealer quoted me 12 hrs...no loader, 2WD, no cab.

Proceeding tomorrow, will split it and then figure out what parts needed. I intend to replace all seals while in there.

Hi does the 585 have a cab? a loader? 4WD?

585 2WD with no cab, no loader very simple split.

Remove Hood and side panels on bottom left and right side of dash.

Electrical, battery cables, remove ground first, cables to starter solenoid, 1 cable that runs from oil pressure switch, temp sensor, air cleaner sensor, head lights, alternator, starting aid. Disconnect this cable starting at oil pressure switch and working towards rear unclip connectors and cable and pull to rear of tractor.

Fuel lines, shut off fuel at bottom of both sides of fuel tank, disconnect supply line at first fuel filter on front right of engine and return line by front left of firewall.

Hydraulic lines, disconnect on right side above brakes and by battery box.
Remove pin out of clutch adjustment rod clevis.

Drive wooden wedges between front axle and bolster, block rear wheels. We always roll front away from rear.
Bolts around bell housing, 2 under battery box.

Do the same as you did for B275.

Re-assembly place clutch and pressure plate on transmission and PTO drive shafts, roll tractor back together but when it is about 1/2 inch from being together(trans shaft should be started in pilot bearing) reach through the inspection plate and attach the pressure plate to the flywheel and torque the pressure plate bolts. Then complete putting tractor together.
The engine can be rotated by using a screw driver on the ring gear.

I used small ziplock bags and cable ties or rubber bands to cover ends of fuel and hydraulic lines.

Hope this helps
JimB

Here is a picture of the HD clutch assembly.

After looking at Charlieu's nice photo I forget to mention, Tach cable, STOP/START/RUN cable, and throttle linkage under right side of battery box.

JimB

Thanks for the great info. Certainly helps to organize, visualize, and get going.

Will report on the job.

C

OK, Client had removed a lot of the gingerbread, blocked and jacked, so in 2.5 hrs we had it apart and disassembled, and on to parts ordering.
Flywheel needs resurfacing has ridge and a very few cracks.
Auburn type clutch pressure plate web broken, disk almost down to rivets....Replace with HD unit?
T.O. brg came out in pieces.
Lots of black tarry sludge all over, so all seals need R&R, crocus cloth on journals...they look good.

Transmission input shaft tube has o-ring, and two seals to replace.
Rear main seal and gasket

miss anything?
Thanks,C

OK, a million clutch choices...this is 11", 3-corner Pressure plate (Auburn) with 6 tabs on the disk. Most similar aftermarket replacement kit is total $240. I see HD 11" clutch sets with a completely round pressure plate.... aftermarket, total $250.

IH dealer says ~$500

Is the HD version recommended, and does it make sense to go with aftermarket through the larger parts dealers, or should I bite the bullet and get the parts from IH?

Hi the only complaint I have heard about HD clutch is if it does not have a Cab with the hydraulic clutch cylinder, the clutch pedal is much harder to depress as the springs in the Pressure Plate are heavier. Even more hard on the left leg if you have a loader on tractor.

My 2 cents
JimB

Good to know. It's a manual clutch, so the heavier action might be a problem. Young women use the tractor, and it might be too much.

C

(quoted from post at 22:59:23 08/14/18) Good to know. It's a manual clutch, so the heavier action might be a problem. Young women use the tractor, and it might be too much.

C

Click to expand...

I installed a Rockford style clutch (that I got from Hycapacity) in the 684 that I did a few weeks ago. It operates very nice and smooth. I did modify the clutch pedal by adding a stop bolt, controlling the height of the clutch pedal like suggested in the IH service manual.

Clutch replaced. Pressure plate web was broken, TO bearing carrier was gouging the aluminum input sleeve, so I had to dress that to insure it would slide well. TO fork was worn badly on one of the arms, so I reversed it without any problem. A few other touchups and it all went well.

Replaced rear main seal and all transmission input assembly seals.

Went with a standard duty clutch to avoid high effort reported with the HD w/o the hydraulic setup.

Had the flywheel faced, almost ran out of thread on the clutch linkage trying to get the freeplay <2".

Assembled the PP and disk on the transmission, and it went together perfectly.... securing the pressure plate screws from the bottom was easy.

Thanks all for the advice and the photos!