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Heat cracks in flywheel

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YooperJD60

Member
Any concerns with re-using a flywheel with stress cracks? Can it damage a new clutch disc? I'm not having any luck finding a good used one, and I'd have to send it out to get it machined, no one locally machines them. Found some used ones online but shipping is outrageous. I only use the tractor for mowing,discing,single bottom plow,and pulling trailers for firewood.
 
You HAVE to get it machined if you want the clutch to work properly and last.

If it's got heat cracks, likely it's worn unevenly, and maybe even warped.

At that point, cracks shouldn't be an issue, unless bad enough to compromise the structural integrity of the flywheel.

The guy machining it should be able to advise you on that.
 
A retired machinest looked at it and said it would take probably .070-.075" to clean it up. To me that sounds like too much material..If it's too thin then it would overheat and crack again. Am I thinking right?
 
That DOES sound like a lot, but if it works otherwise, I wouldn't expect it to "heat and crack" in normal service much worse than original.

Typically, the machine shop will have a book that came along with their flywheel grinder that details dimension limits for re-use.
 
(quoted from post at 17:25:24 08/08/18) Any concerns with re-using a flywheel with stress cracks? Can it damage a new clutch disc? I'm not having any luck finding a good used one, and I'd have to send it out to get it machined, no one locally machines them. Found some used ones online but shipping is outrageous. I only use the tractor for mowing,discing,single bottom plow,and pulling trailers for firewood.
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I just put a new clutch in my Super C this past winter. My flywheel had some cracking that didn't clean up when it was resurfaced. I asked both the machine shop and the IH dealership and both said it wasn't anything at all to worry about. It has been working fine from what I can tell.

Now if this was my truck, I would have replaced it no matter what they told me .
 
I'm thinking I'll send it out and tell them to take .035"-.040" max. and then put it back together and hope for the best. The old clutch slipped under HEAVY load, but I had no chattering. Since the old disc was worn to the rivets, I'm thinking anything should be better.
 

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right, but depending on how the tractor is to be used it may not make much difference. Plenty of clutches have been replaced with very little attention given to the flywheel. The new clutch may be a bit grabby and chattery at first, but it will eventually wear in and smooth out.
 
I wouldn't worry about it. Dad had a guy that was a teacher in one of the mechanic classes at the high school where he taught. He put sleeves and bearings in our MD back in the late 70's. The fly wheel looked like a checkerboard with the heat cracks. I don't remember it being resurfaced and a new clutch plate with pressure plate went in with no ill effects on it. Has been used hard some times. Does not slip or act up. Still works fine. It has never plowed as we never had a plow small enough for it to do that. Disked dragged pulled drill with it for years though. Was not enough power to green chop back then good.
 
it will be fine.your only doing light duty work. those cracks are caused by slipping or riding the clutch. as i always say... foot on the clutch pedal down or off the pedal once moving. no inbetween. oldtimers were bad for riding the clutch. just deglaze it with some emery and you will be ok. just take a bit to wear it in is all.
 
(quoted from post at 13:03:14 08/08/18) I'm thinking I'll send it out and tell them to take .035"-.040" max. and then put it back together and hope for the best. The old clutch slipped under HEAVY load, but I had no chattering. Since the old disc was worn to the rivets, I'm thinking anything should be better.
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I suppose, you would know better than the machinist.
 
as i said , surfaces must be clean with brake clean to remove oil film then use emery and guarrantee it will not slip if pressure plate is good.dont worry about cracks on these old flywheels as long as the surface is reasonably smooth. it will not chatter either as that is what oil does on a clutch. if machinist says that much has to come off he will be correct as he is the one in charge. not going to let half azz stuff out the door. i do know when some things can be left as is. tryed all this stuff not just presuming.
 
It?s a rompin stompin Super C! See link for previous post. The flywheel will be fine as long as the surface is fairly flat and has minimal grooving. Run around it a few times evenly with an air sander with 80 or 100 grit to knock the glaze off so the new lining can wear in a bit quicker.
Previous post
 
(quoted from post at 19:06:55 08/08/18)
(quoted from post at 13:03:14 08/08/18) I'm thinking I'll send it out and tell them to take .035"-.040" max. and then put it back together and hope for the best. The old clutch slipped under HEAVY load, but I had no chattering. Since the old disc was worn to the rivets, I'm thinking anything should be better.
Click to expand...

I suppose, you would know better than the machinist.
Click to expand...

I sense a little sarcasm,I don't think that was necessary.
 
Got it all back together,,Wasn't that bad..about 5 hours total. The clutch works fantastic! All I did was scuff up the flywheel with 80 grit on an orbital. I mowed with it all afternoon and not one glitch.
 
(quoted from post at 10:32:09 08/17/18) Got it all back together,,Wasn't that bad..about 5 hours total. The clutch works fantastic! All I did was scuff up the flywheel with 80 grit on an orbital. I mowed with it all afternoon and not one glitch.
Click to expand...

Usually all that is needed is to get the glazing off of it, and you did. These old tractors just ain't too picky.
 
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