Seized Model M

Hey y'all. Iv'e got a '49 Model M that's seized, i'm guessin at the crank given all the water I watched pour out the oil drain plug two years ago. And so she sat. Now that it's mine, fast forward to this past Monday, I poured #2 diesel into the crankcase until i noticed it drippin out the front and rear..approx. 6 gallons worth remains..and with the head also removed, I covered the four cylinders with #2 as well. That was 4 days ago and i'm well aware that these things take time which is fine cause i'm in no hurry but, I can't escape the naggin suspicion that that crankshaft aint submerged like i want it to be given the way it started and stopped drippin at the same time from the front AND the back. The streams wont no more than a thread but steady for almost an hour. Front/Rear seals? I've read of weep holes but on different engines. The farmall was my great granddaddy's and has always been covered and run like a top down in Sumter Co. Ga for 36 of my 41 yrs. till his son, my pawpaw passed which is when it stopped being taken care of. I aim to change that.. so any input or advice is more than welcome. Thanks.

Might as well give it up and go ahead and tear the engine down. Even if you get it broken loose it will still, most likely need new sleeves and pistons. Since it was great-grandfathers tractor, it will be worth whatever it takes to make it functional and enjoyable.

Yea, I'm gettin my head around that one for sure. I got a fresh tank of 75/25 for my XMT 350 so i can build the splitter stands. In the meantime I was lookin to get her as free as possible for the tear down. If the crank aint soaking in fuel then I'd be better off going about it a different way.

My opinion is a guess from hundreds of miles away but I would think piston ring to bore is where the engine is stuck. Not the main or rod journals. My thoughts are that the shell bearings are soft metal, copper, tin type materials which provide some boundary lube when oil pressure isn't available to center the pin via the hydro-dynamic bearing principles. But, as such, its not a place that is ripe for corrosion.

However the piston ring to bore is a spot that's perfect for ferrous materials in close contact to rust.

I would instead recommend pulling all the spark plugs and filling the cylinders with a cup of some "stuff". I like Kroil but there are many choices that can work.

I would leave the spark plugs out and use something like a rag or paper towel to prevent anything else getting in there. While you are at it, I would find an empty tin can of beans to put over the exhaust stack if its sitting outdoors.

In the mean time you can jack up one of the rear wheels, block it up with cribbing, put it in 5th gear, and gently rock the wheel back and forth. My advise is not to rock the wheel in an aggressive fashion, just enough to lightly let the mass of the wheel bear on the crank. The effectiveness is doing it daily over weeks of time and building up cycles of reversing motion rather than expecting it to work in 1 session.

How are the cycl walls if rusted no way can you remove the pistons take the block off the tractor so they can press the sleeve and piston together out

The M I bought had a cracked block , water ran from the radiator to block , through the crack in the block and sleeve down in the oil pan. You
may have to go to a tractor salvage yard to get a used block. If that the case , may even think about buying a 450 block for a little more hp.

Too bad you are in 600 miles away. I will be parting 450 after harvest. I need rear end parts.
Good luck!

Are the pistons orginial,flat top cast iron,or are they aluminum,If cast you have a chance with soaking,if aluminum drill or cut them,and put a new kit in it.