Exhaust Manifold

I posted this message some months ago but wanted to include a pic this time. I need to replace the exhaust manifold on this 1955 International 100. As you can see, the bolts are severely rusted. Would you take it to a machinist? If I fail in my attempt, I will be unable start this tractor to get it into a shop. Thoughts?
 

mvphoto19730.jpg
 
Using a sharp cold chisel. split each nut till it fails. don't hit sideways, hit towards the block, starting at the surface shown and going away from the view point. a sharp chisel is mandatory, but it will get them all loose. If you are careful, you can save the threads on the studs. Jim
 
First clean the studs/nuts with a wire brush as best you can. Next get a high quality penetrating oil. I prefer Kroil. Spray them down. Go do something else for a day. Spray them down again and go away for a day. Give them a try. You might have to use some metric sockets since the nuts have rusted so much. You would be surprised how easy they will come off.

OTJ
 
I've never changed a manifold where the bolts didn't look like yours and have never broken on taking it off with a socket. Maybe I've just been lucky. I've had several where the whole stud unscrewed. Personally I would try the heat deal people have mentioned and a socket before trying something more drastic.
 
I agree those don't look bad at all. All the ones that I have removed from tractors for restoration have looked at least that bad and I have never had an issue. Worst case is, the whole stud unscrews from the head. At that point it is not worth messing with removing the nut from the stud, just buy new. The hardware store here in town has all those studs on the shelf and aren't much more than $1.50 each.
 
I'd recommend taking it to a good machine shop. A broken drill bit or easy out only makes the task more difficult. I broke a exhaust manifold bolt on the head of my M. Even the machine shop had problems getting it out, so I never would have gotten it out myself.
 
The posts recommending Kroil, 6 point sockets tapped onto the nut and oxyacetylene would follow my recommendations. Dont even mess with a propane torch as its not enough heat.

In my mind, the only reason not to use the blue wrench on rusted or stuck fasteners is the probability something nearby would be permanently melted (usually paint, wiring, plastic/rubber parts)
 
I'd go right straight for the oxy-whatever torch.

This is the hottest external location on the tractor, so there should be nothing there for the torch to damage, especially since the manifold is coming off.

Keep a nice tight flame on the torch, and try to heat just the nut to cherry red.
 

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