SMTA not starting, really fed up

I posted 2 weeks ago about my SMTA not starting and then starting through the light switch when I turned the lights on. I thought I had that fixed by installing a new push/pull switch. The tractor fired right up with the new switch. Monday I mowed 6 acres with a Land Pride 35/90 mower deck and Tuesday I mowed about 3 acres without a hitch. This was in about 12 inch high grass which was a pretty good workout I think. This morning I wanted to move the tractor and it would not start. Cranks fast, excellent flow of gas, has a good spark. The tractor is 6 volt, positive ground, electronic ignition. I know you all are getting tired of listening to me b!tch about this, and I apologize for this and for not being smart enough to figure it out on my own. Does anyone have any more ideas? Thanks, Ellis
 
It has to be either fuel or spark, if the engine is not just mechanically flawed. I would suspect the needle valve or something to be sticking.
 
Based on what you are saying that works have you checked your engine compression. We had a Cub at our local rr museum hat would sometimes start and sometimes not doing exactly what you are saying and eventually it wouldn't run no matter what we did. It turned out to be low compression and needed a valve job. I bought the tractor, had the valves done and it starts like a brand new one - didn't do anything else to the tractor.
 
The tractor had an engine overhaul at the Case/IH dealership in Shelbyville, Ky during the winter of 2009. Also new axle bearings, which has nothing to do with my current problem. I have really tried hard to keep this tractor in excellent shape because I actually use and depend on it. That's why this is so frustrating. Ellis
 
If you crank the tractor for a while and it doesn't start are the plugs wet if you pull them. Just wondering if you can verify gas is getting to the cylinders. When you say you have good spark where are you checking that at? What plugs are you using? When you say you have a good gas flow how are you determining that?
 
I was going to offer to help you if you were pretty close to Shelbyville, but it looks like you are a couple hours away from me.
 
I think it is a carburetor problem. I pulled the air hose and gas poured out. It will start and idle for a sec. and quit. Seems to always have gas at the drain petcock. Float issues maybe? I have tried all the quick fixes to adjust the carb. as described in the owners manual. Would anyone recommend a carb. guy who does really good work and is meticulous to a fault? Ellis
 
I had some problems yesterday with my Oliver S88. It would run for a short time then die down and maybe even die. It would start back up but not stay running as it should. Pull the fuel line off the carb and opened the sediment valve and the flow was slow. Back blew the line and flow was good again. Ran it and baled one bale if hay and back to the same problem. This morning I drained the tank and took the sediment bowl assembly off and took it apart. Found a flat of something in the assembly and sprayed it out with carb cleaner and fire it up and finished the hay I started yesterday with out any more fuel problems.
So you might try pulling the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less the n3 minutes. If you don't work you way back till you find the problem
 

It sounds like something it causing the needle valve to stick open. It will either bad crap between the needle valve and the seat or a bad float. Float is easy to check, take it out and shake it, listening for gas inside of it, or put it in a small bucket and push it down in water and see if any bubbles rise.

It sure sounds like there is crap holding the needle valve open though, if it ran so good for hours while mowing and now it is flooding.
 
I typed this on my phone that there was a couple mistakes. I really wish we could edit. It should have said:

It sounds like something IS causing the needle valve to stick open. It will either BE crap between the needle valve and the seat or a bad float. Float is easy to check, take it out and shake it, listening for gas inside of it, or put it in a small bucket and push it down in water and see if any bubbles rise.

It sure sounds like there is crap holding the needle valve open though, if it ran so good for hours while mowing and now it is flooding.
 
Flooded. Needle is stuck open or too much choke. Excess fuel should not build up in the intake, it should dribble out on the ground through the drain, so that's plugged for sure.
 
You want to let the gas run for a few minutes to minimize the chance that something is floating around in the fuel system and only occasionally plugs the lines. On the spark I would look for spark at the plugs. I bought a spark tester that goes in line with the spark plug wire and I can see it from the seat. Eliminates the chances of touching something one can regret at the time or trying to ground a plug and operating the starter at the same time. As far as plugs I'm not familiar with Autolites but I run D21 Champions in mine without any problems. What ever brand you want to run at least one heat range higher than the manual calls for with todays gas.
 
I work at Augusta Farm Supply,a former IH dealer, in Augusta,not that far from you. We stock a lot of parts and also have a lot of NOS parts too.You can call if you like,ask for Greg.Mark.
 
I think I just searched Amazon with the words spark plug tester. A bunch of them came up. Maybe automotive stores have them too? I went cheap with a fixed gap but some of them have variable gaps. If I remember right mine was about $15. I didn't know there was such a thing until someone on here brought it up. Without the packaging I can't say who the manufacturer was but mine just goes in line with the plug wire.
 
The one I have came from harbor freight I think. I got it for small engines, because sometimes it is very hard to hold the plug and pull the rope to crank the engine.
 
I have had the pin that holds the float on
work out of one side letting float drop and
bind.Have to pull bottom of carduretor off
to check it.If it is the problem squeeze
the slotted side a little then put the pin
in place.
 
Could be a speck of dirt in the needle valve or over choking. My experience is these tractors were sensitive to flooding. I switched my M to 12v and then I could clear a flood most days. If i really needed the tractor that day i could pull start to get it going otherwise i had to walk away for a couple of hours to clear the flood. Do you have a battery charger with a boost setting to keep the voltage level up when cranking for a hotter spark?
 

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