Farmall Regular running issues

So I?m having an issue with my Regular. I have water in the fuel which was drained completely and the carb was cleaned.
AST year I had issues with the mag (e4a) impulse freezing up before I parked it. So when I went to start it I cleaned up the mag and carb. I can get it to start now but starts really hard and once it gets hot it won?t restart. I am thinking it?s the condenser in the mag and or a weak coil. Mag is original and never been rebuilt. On the carb side I put in a brass float and adjusted it properly but have noticed that once it dies the gas keeps runnng and floods out all over. Guessing this is a needle and seat issue. Also what are the settings supposed to be 2 and 1/2 turns for the load (big top jet) and 1 and 1/2 for the idle jet? Not going to lie I?ve beat my head against a wall now for a month on this so please offer suggestions / help.
 
For the float you need to check that it is not rubbing the side of the bowl. Need to check the float level for shut of height. Then if it does not shut off and seal with a brass seat and steel needle. Take a small hammer and tap the needle in the seat without the float in there. It just might be the seat has an imperfection it it that causes it to leak. Your not going to drive it through like a nail just a tap to help form the seat to the needle. I know everybody is going to say no no no no. I say yes. Then for the spark if you have a mag you should not need a coil.
 
Thanks for the input I can try the needle and seat trick. Worst case I damaged a t and have to buy a new one but I have 3 brass cabs so plenty of parts. For the spark I should have mentioned that when I tested it on 1 full revolution (4 turns) every plug fired 4 times with one decent spark and the other 3 were ok but shouldn?t be sparking. So basically I a, getting spark even when it shouldn?t be.
 
I am not saying that there is nothing wrong with your mag causing your engine to run poor but you misdiagnosed a problem because I think you misunderstood it?s proper operation. In your four turn test each cylinder would have fired twice. In a four cycle engine for every two turns of the crankshaft each cylinder will fire once. The four cycles are piston moves down intake, piston moves up compression, at which time the cylinder fires. The third cycle piston moves down for the power stroke, the fourth cycle piston moves up exhaust. Each cycle happens with a half turn of the crankshaft. Four half turns equals two revolutions of the crank and one turn of the mag or distributor to fire all cylinders. Unless the spark plugs are connected to the mag and grounded to the tractor frame laid out in a row next to each other it would be extremely difficult to see two firing at once if that indeed is happening.
 
If the mag is weak it will be hard to start.My regular has a E4A and its weak.Hand cranking its Verrrrry hard to start,pulling it,it will start in 3 feet and run good.Im thinking about changing over to a F4 mag
 
So when I say one full revolution or 4 turns it was bench tested. Each turn triggered the impulse once firing 1,3,4,2 in sequence. Meaning 1 full revolution of the mag. The issue was when it should have been firing on 1 it was also firing my on 3,4&2 and same as on All others. Then to test my theory I put it on the tractor and had someone turn the crank so that impulse triggered 4 times and again it same issue firing one all 4 plugs at the same time. I do agree I have a carb issue as well but I have rebuilt many f4 mags and never had this issue before and am wondering what could be causing this to happen.
 
Forgot to mention that when it is running it runs good but when it gets warm it starts running like it is missing. I can drive in 1st gear good but when put into 2 3 or reverse it starts to power down like it is missing. All the valves are moving and properly adjusted nothing is stuck or sticking.
 
sound to me you are getting spark from coil wire to cap some how every time points open. Or you have a bad cap or rotor bouncing spark around. Can you swap some parts from another mag?
 
Sorry I misunderstood, but I think you will have to admit it was a little unclear. I?m sorry I don?t know much about magnetos. My suggestion would be to look at the inside the cap with a magnifying glass for cracking or carbon tracking. Something is leading the spark to multiple plug wire tower connections.
 
Yeah now that I go back and read it, I can see how it sounds. I am going to purchase a new coil drive with condenser and see how it works. I did go through the whole mag cleaned up everything and even had the magnet charged with same results. Thank you for your help
 
No other mag to swap parts with. Yeah spark has to be coming from somewhere but just can?t figure it out. Guessing that if it is continuously sparking that it will running like garbage as well.
 
All thanks for the help. After a bit I went and bought a mag for another tractor (new rebuilt mag) and ended up not being able to use it for the one I bought it for. I put it in the regular and with in 3 cranks it fired up and started running great with no misses. I had to adjust the carb a little after resetting the needle and seat. Now I have to have the old mag rebuilt so I can have it ready so I can put it on the other tractor once it?s ready. Thanks again all. I appreciate the help in talking this out.
 

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