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Steering Box Overhaul

J

Johnnykick

Member
I'm attempting to rebuild the steering box on my 1955 Farmall 100 as I have 1/4 turn of steering play. I'm confused by the shop
manual instructions. It says to remove weight from the wheels and place wood wedges between axle and steering gear housing base.
Since I need to remove the upper gear housing from the engine, what good are wedges since the engine is supported by the gear housing? And since I need to remove the gear housing base, would I not need to lift the engine at the clutch housing? How do I stabilize the engine if I do that? Shop manual instructions attached.
a263302.jpg
 
The wood wedges is answered in the manual, to keep the gearbox from tilting. I assume this is if you are removing the entire front end. Yes, jack it up at the clutch housing, dont worry about the engine being supported. It will stay in place.
 
What I did: I removed grill and radiator. Contrary to what the manual tells, I then first removed the tierods from arm (16) and pulled the U-bolt and the pivot shaft and dropped the front axle. Then removed the big hex cap (4) and screwed the steering shaft out (steering wheel needs to come off). Only then I pulled the four bolts holding the steering housing assy to the engine block.
HTH
 
There isnt any adjustment in that gearbox just replace worn parts bushings,bearings and seals probably the key and it will be like new again. I have done several with great results.
 
Completed the rebuild but was a bit disappointed in the results. With the front end lifted, the steering is tight...about 1/2" to 1" turn of the steering wheel and the steering arm moves. However, with wheels on the ground, it takes about 1/5 turn of the steering wheel to get movement. Is that normal?
 
Also noticed oil oozing from the seal between the upper housing and base. That's frustrating, I even used Permatex on the gasket.
 
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