B414 clutch issue after replacement

Hello all! I’m back after a long awaited restoration. I posted here a while ago about a b414 I picked up and had some transmission issues. Well long story short, I ended up splitting the tractor, finding a donor transmission at a tractor junkyard, swapped the gears out of it into mine, redid all the seals, brakes, new clutch and friction plate did the works. Got it back together, and the wheels would keep spinning when it was in neutral, split the tractor a second time to find some rust on the trans input shaft that would not allow the shaft to go into the pilot bearing. Sanded it down, put back together, no more wheels spinning in neutral, but now I’m in a pickle...... :roll:

I have the new clutch and friction plate in(dual clutch). Pto clutch adjusted to .080 thousands as per the shop manual. I also have the clutch pedal adjusted as per the manual. When I press the clutch pedal down, and go to put in gear, it wants to grind but I can get it to go in gear. Now the fun part.... when I press the clutch to stop, the tractor keeps rolling until I turn the engine off or yank it out of gear.. I have tried all kinds of pedal adjustments and also played with the pto clutch adjustment to no avail......

I’m out of ideas, money and patience. By tomorrow it might be in gear driving down my road with a for sale sign on it and no one driving it. I’m literally pulling my hair out.

If there was wear on the splines of the clutch shaft, and the new driven disk (friction disk) binds up on them because it is not in the same place as
the old splines. It will do that. The pressure may be enough to drive up a small hill!! So that is my best idea. Jim

Hi see this post from archives about clutch on 354 same as your B-414.

JimB
354 or B414 Clutch

OOPS, the photo of the clutch measurements was replaced by wrenches.

Here is proper photo


JimB

I had a B250 that acted just as you described. A neighbour who was handy with tractor repair said he would like to take a look at it. He
called me to say the yoke that held the throw out bearing was badly worn, the shaft that the yoke attached to the housing was worn badly and
the one clip that held the bearing in place was broken. I took all the parts to Ontario Used Tractor Parts and Steve had a B250, so I got the
yoke, shaft, throw out bearing(which is a carbon disc) and the clips. Once reassembled every thing worked as it should.( Before this repair I
couldn't shift and the tractor kept moving with the clutch pedal completely depressed. There is an inspection panel on the torque tube and
all work was done through it so no need to split the tractor. Take a look at your yoke,shaft and throw out bearing for looseness and wear,
that may well be your problem

Thanks for the reply’s guys!! In regards to michaels post, when I was putting tractor back together I did notice that the “ears” on the throwout bearing housing were ovaled, bearing was okay. I had to use the housing from the donor tractor because the original had one of the ears cracked off. If the throwout bearing and yoke needs replaced, the tractor needs plot AGAIN. You can’t get the bearing off without going over the input shaft which goes all the way up through the clutch and flywheel

All my measurements pretty much match up to that diagram jimb and I read over that other post about the clutch. I used a
“new rebuilt” clutch housing and a new woven friction disc like what cane out of the tractor.

What do you mean by it binds up or not in the same place Janicholson? When I split it the second time, I pulled the clutch back out inspected all parts, everything turns free on the shafts no signs of binding.

Let me also add, the tractor that I have swapped parts into is a 65’ the donor tractor is a 62’. Everything is the same except the early one had the small brakes. Every gear and shaft I switch is exactly the same size and tolerances. Also, the new friction plate I ordered has more material on than the old. Meaning that it has more clutch surface than the old one. The old one had a “narrow” friction surface, this is wider. Not that I can see that making a difference as it does not get caught/hung up on anything while bolted to the flywheel.

Well since not much has changed since my last reply, I talked with a older gentleman that used to tinker with tractors. He suggested that I put the tractor into a tree and see if the clutch works. So today I put the tractor in low 1st and started it like I have been doing. Drove it over to my nearest stable tree. Got my loader bucket right on it and the tractor started digging away. Push the clutch in, wheels stop, let it out, wheels start going.

When the wheels stop when clutch is depressed, it will not come out of gear. Only way to get out of gear is to shut it off and do it. Not sure what this means as I have tried everything and did not get to talk to him again to let him know my findings.

On a better note, I stopped my my local Rural King and they are selling tractors now. They’re rebranded TYM tractors sold a RK tractors. Look awesome and well built. The model id like to get would be the 37 hp one, runs about $21k with a loader and 4x4 :shock: still cheaper yum a kubota or anything else!

Anyways, if anyone has any info on the clutch issues let me know!

Thank you