Cub with Woods belly Mower Question

Hotflashjr

Well-known Member
Location
Western MA
I posted about buying a cub last week - went and got it Friday. The tractor sat for a year inside before I bought it. I drained out the old fuel and put in fresh gas. The issue I am finding is I cannot get the tractor to run the mowing deck without stalling or without having to slip the clutch to keep the RPM's up when starting out. I adjusted the carb and governor linkages and that helped some. It does get up to full operating RPM within a minute or so of moving if you slip the clutch to get going. Is this normal? I ended up mowing my yard with it and although it is not green I still enjoyed the ride.
 
You spinning the mower up sitting on the ground or up a bit so it is not fighting grass to start?? Also did you grease the spindles on the mower?? They should be grease each time you use the mower or you will be buying bearings for it. Also are you trying to spin it up and move at the same time?? You need to spin the mower up then put it in gear and go
 
I have it lifted out of the grass before engaging the PTO. This does not have live PTO so as soon as I push in the clutch mower slows down to a stop. I haven't found a good way to dump it into gear without having the PTO come to a stop. The only real option was to slip the clutch a bit to keep RPM's up otherwise it wants to bog and stop.

Checked spindles to make sure they spun freely. I didn't grease but prior owner had greased when he put it away last year - had fresh grease on zerks and coming out of spindles. The belts are a bit worn, but are not over tensioned either. I didn't check the sheaves to see if those are hanging up but will check that next.
 
I think you may be looking at an engine that has less than full horsepower. The 59 inch mowers were hard on valves. A compression check may be in order. I have never had much success getting one in gear if the blade was spinning. I had a Cub that was so weak I would point it down hill to get the mower up to speed. With every thing right you should be able to start and cut lawn type grass in 2nd gear. Fun little tractors.
 
Ya I forgot that you do not have live PTO and you cannot use and ORC on it due to how the belt works.
If I where you I would check to make sure you have a good blue/white spark at the plugs that jump a 1/4 inch gap. Weak spark can make them not have the power they should have. I would also check the plugs and make sure there good and not fouled. Also firing order could be wrong. Seen many tractor run ok with the firing order off so running on 2 cylinders' instead of 4. Or you may still have a carb problem. Have you tried to choke it some while trying to get it moving and up to speed??
 
I did try choking it to see if it just was not getting enough fuel flow (like my 1020 had been) and that bogged it down. I did check fuel flow at the carb and it was a good constant flow after I had drained out the old fuel. Fuel tank and bowl were replaced and are nice and clean by the prior owner.

I haven't checked spark yet or firing order. It starts up with the hand crank real easy so didn't think to make sure that is all as hot as it can be but will double check.
 
If choking it bogs it down then it is running to rich. Have you cleaned the air cleaner and dumped the water and mud it had in it and put in fresh oil?? Float might be set a tad bit off letting to much fuel into the float bowl making it run to rich
 
It is the Woods 3 spindle - I think model 59?

It has 1 pulley off the PTO, down to two pulleys on the draw bar and then to the deck to the main spindle.
 
Are you sure its a Woods, and not the IH/Danco? Woods would have only one long belt, the Danco uses 3. I suppose the Woods could be adapated for 3 belt use. Yor other post referes to a fresh overhaul, so the tractor should pull it unless theres other issues.
 
So I have roughly the same machine, believe mid 50s Cub with Woods L59. Mine had sat in the barn for about 20 years.

I would recommend the full-monty carb cleaning as that was my biggest problem. You could also mark the distributor base a sharpie and try to advance the timing about 1/16".

I can start in 2nd gear in "average" lawn grass without too much slip.

The Fcub does have a smaller sheave on the PTO than the similarly equipped Super A that I also cut with. The SA has a visibly faster linear belt speed.
 
Air cleaner is all good. When I dumped out the old gas I used it to clean pipe from air cleaner to carb as well as flush out the screen in the air cleaner. Brand new 30wt. oil in the cup.

I haven't looked at the carb much. Used to Marvel Scheblers from the Deere's so it will be a learning experience.
 
The gentleman I bought it from has all woods paperwork and the rear mounting bracket says Woods on it and it sure looks like any other L59 I have seen. However I have never owned one, or really checked one out as my old JD's all ran sickle bar mowers and on the farm we have much bigger equipment running 8 and 10 foot mowers.
 
Those cub carbs are easy but one problem is that the main jet is not adjustable so float is very important
 
friend of mine, says to run it and run it and get it hot. the longer you run it, the better it will run and the more power it will have. he says
 
first thing is check compression as the C ub will run that mower good tons of them doing the same but sounds like the engine is weak thats why do the compression check you with all cycls close to the same reading
 

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