H converted to 12 volts but with generator

Matt E.

Member
We have a 1950 H. Was stuck, finally getting it back together. The 6 volt generator was toast. I have a generator off a WD-9 and it is 12 volt. I don't remember but I think the WD-9 was set up positive ground also, is that correct?

Also, with the distributer - just need a 12 volt coil? Any comments are welcome for the electrical set-up.
 
Changing the lights won't be needed yet but I won't be burning them out since some kid was nice enough to smash them out before we bought the tractor for $200. Little turd even got the amp gauge. Just want to hear the motor pop and snort before we get to the rest.

Thanks Gene, I'll look the gen over. I think its a Delco if I remember right.
 
Unless there is a particular reason you want to use a generator, I would suggest using an alternator.
Generators have a relative low output and use a mechanical regulator. When these tractors ran in the field all day long, the low generator output was able to fully recharge the battery. Now days we drive them across the yard and shut them off. Not fully recharging the battery, which is not good for the battery. Alternators have a high initial output and seldom fail internal solid state regulator. The alternator will quickly recharge the battery.
Coil. When switching to 12 volt, you can use an ignition resistor in series with the same 6 volt coil.
Coil polarity. Connect the distributor wire to the coil polarity to agree with battery ground polarity. If battery is negative ground, connect the distributor wire to negative terminal of the coil.
 
You don't need the charging system working to get the engine running. Just charge up the battery. If it has a 4 terminal regulator with "L" terminal that L terminal powers the switches. The regulator L and Bat terminals must remain connected to power the switches. If no L terminal the switches are powered off of a connection at the ammeter.

As Gene says, set it up for the polarity of the regulator. You can get a replacement original style coil but they are quite pricey. Your other options are to add a 1 1/2 ohm resistor between coil and switch, or replace coil with direct 12 volt round can style coil such as NAPA IC14SB or equivalent.

With positive ground the + on coil goes to side of distributor, with negative ground the -- side of coil to side of distributor.


Since you already have the 12 volt generator it should be an easy swap. If you have problems with getting it to charge you could then change to an alternator. The smaller alternators from a late 70 to mid 80 Datsun, Chevy Luv, or Isuzu is a good fitting option. Internet search will show several options.
 
The wiring is a total mess, will need to start over. I have the diagram from the gentleman on this forum who is referenced to by everyone when diagnosing electrical problems. I'll start there and see how we do.
 
Generators do not care it they are + or - ground. Regulators can/do care depending on how there made. As said as for just getting it running a charging system that works is not needed. I've run more then one tractor for mouths with a bad charging system you just need to charge the battery at times. You do how ever need the fan belt for the water pump
 
I also recommend the alternator.

The additional improvement is also the retirement of the electromechanical external voltage regulator, replaced by the relatively trouble-free solid-state version inside the alternator itself.

This does leave the wiring harness a bit cobbled with several wires not landed on anything. But, sometimes its worthwhile to start over and rewire the entire tractor.
 
If you have to rewire it I'd go with an alternator and be done with it. Less wires and few components to go bad. Plus if you buy the alternator at the right place it can have a life time warranty. Simple alternator made for a 1980 Chevy pickup no power any thing no AC will cost around $50 to O'Reilly's with a life time warranty
 

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