Famrall H Gas Tank Removal question

This weekend, I tried to remove my old gas tank from my 1949 Farmall H and ran into a problem. I removed the 3 nuts and springs holding the tank to the frame. When I lift up the tank, I hit the steering column and can not get enough clearance to remove the tank due to the 3 bolts. How do I remove the bolts so I can get my old tank off or do I have to remove the steering column? Thanks for the suggestions.
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:20 06/04/18) This weekend, I tried to remove my old gas tank from my 1949 Farmall H and ran into a problem. I removed the 3 nuts and springs holding the tank to the frame. When I lift up the tank, I hit the steering column and can not get enough clearance to remove the tank due to the 3 bolts. How do I remove the bolts so I can get my old tank off or do I have to remove the steering column? Thanks for the suggestions.

Thanks rustyfarmall & gmcdeadhead, I will try the 2 nut idea first and see if the bolts come out. If that does not work, I will try the steering column so that might be thing I need help with?
 
I'll bet if you stared at it for about 30 seconds you could figure out about 5 different non-destructive ways to get that steering shaft out of the way, and none of them will take more than 5 minutes to execute.
 
the two nuts should do the trick for you., thats the way i do it to take the gas tank and radiator bolts out , just install in reverse of order
 
If you end up having to move the upper steering shaft to get the tank out, in case a stud is really stuck. Loosen the pinch bolt holding the yoke to the steering shaft and remove it, then carefully drive a chisel into the yoke gap to open it up a little and allow it to be carefully tapped back with a soft punch or drift and a hammer.

The two nuts tightened against each other is usually good to remove the studs from the tank though and that should work well, then just slide the tank out from the right hand side.
 
If you look at lots of H's, most or all will have a notch banged into the steering column where the gas tank rim fits. The rim of the tank will just barely fit into that banged-in notch. My belief is it is a design defect, from the factory, with a factory-installer's remedy, where there wasn't enough space allowed in there for the tank rim to fit. My belief is that assembly-line guys just banged that notch in, solving the problem. I loosened up the lock-allen-screws on the steering column lock-circles, slid them back, loosened them, and loosened the three hold-down bolts holding down the steering column, and tilted it slightly back. Tank can be removed. BE AWARE, that thing is really heavy.
 
(quoted from post at 11:49:55 06/04/18) If you look at lots of H's, most or all will have a notch banged into the steering column where the gas tank rim fits. The rim of the tank will just barely fit into that banged-in notch. My belief is it is a design defect, from the factory, with a factory-installer's remedy, where there wasn't enough space allowed in there for the tank rim to fit. My belief is that assembly-line guys just banged that notch in, solving the problem. I loosened up the lock-allen-screws on the steering column lock-circles, slid them back, loosened them, and loosened the three hold-down bolts holding down the steering column, and tilted it slightly back. Tank can be removed. BE AWARE, that thing is really heavy.

I saw the lock-allen-screws and by the steering wheel, but where are the "three hold-down bolts holding down the steering column". Are these near the steering wheel or on the opposite end of the steering column?
 
I believe he is talking about the 3 at the base of the steering post, that the steering wheel is supported by.
 
(quoted from post at 12:53:38 06/04/18) I believe he is talking about the 3 at the base of the steering post, that the steering wheel is supported by.
I thought of that after I asked the question. I didn't check that base out when I was struggling with it this weekend. Thanks for the suggestion as it seems the best way. After I get the tank off I can remove the 3 bolts from it to the new tank. :)
 
You can, but be careful removing them. Broke more than my fair share of them. In fact, I just go buy new ones when I have the
least bit of trouble getting them out. I usually didnt have time to fight with them.
 
(quoted from post at 04:47:20 06/05/18) You can, but be careful removing them. Broke more than my fair share of them. In fact, I just go buy new ones when I have the
least bit of trouble getting them out. I usually didnt have time to fight with them.

Does anyone know the size of the 3 bolts? I am thinking of getting some in case I damage them during removal.
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:20 06/04/18) This weekend, I tried to remove my old gas tank from my 1949 Farmall H and ran into a problem. I removed the 3 nuts and springs holding the tank to the frame. When I lift up the tank, I hit the steering column and can not get enough clearance to remove the tank due to the 3 bolts. How do I remove the bolts so I can get my old tank off or do I have to remove the steering column? Thanks for the suggestions.

I loosened the steering column and the tank is off, thanks for all the help.

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Should I use Teflon tape when putting the new bolts back on the gas tank and also use Teflon tape of the sediment bowl and fuel line to prevent fuel leaks? I always used Teflon tape on my Camaros Holly Carburetor. Thanks for the help, again.....
 
If I remember right, the tapped holes for the studs are not exposed to gasoline and they are fine thread, so the teflon tape would be unnecessary and probably cause undue difficulty getting them back in.
On the sediment bowl, you are better off using an oil and gas resistant pipe dope, there is concern that the teflon tape could end up blocking up something if it breaks off and gets carried with the fuel to the carb.
 

I went to my local Lowe's and Home depot but they don't carry these studs. They have threaded rod but I can not cut those rods. We have a store called Tractor Supply but the closest is 45 minutes away? Time for a google search and let the internet do the walking....
 
I tried to remove the 3 bolts and broke 2 of them off. At least I have 1 good one. It is 3 inches long and is a 7/16-20 thread. I am looking on the web for a 3 inch 7/16-20 stud but no luck. Could someone help me find them? Thanks for your time and effort.
 
Fastenal is where you need to go as they will have exactly what you need and if not they can have it in a few days. Don't have a clue where your nearest Fastenal store might be located but they also have a web site on line from which you can order from as well. They have never let me down when it comes to the world of fasteners for my restorations, Hal.
 
Are you looking for a stud or is it a plain bolt? I haven't had a fuel tank off a H or M Farmall so don't know exactly what you are needing. I got on Fastenal's website and they do have a 3" long stud which
is threaded 7/16"-20 on one end 1 13/16" in length and 7/16"-14 on the other end 3/4" in length. They are grade 8 and used on cylinder heads and manifolds in the automotive world. If you are truly needing
7/16"-20 threads on both ends you should be able to have a piece of all thread cut by a machine shop to replace those (2) broken on removal which they can chamfer the lead thread so it will easily accept the
insert or nut when re-installing back on the tractor.
I have been following this thread so I can know what I may be up against when removing just the fuel tank from a Farmall H or M in the future and have found it quite interesting. It appears removing the bolts
holding the steering wheel support to the platform (transmission & differential cover) and raising them along with the steering linkage up somewhat is the main key to the tank removal.
 
The three bolts I gave you the dimensions for in the earlier post were the hold down bolts for the steering shaft support to the rear end deck.
The ones you want to hold the gas tank down are part number 51122DA, which aren't readily available through IH anymore, but McMaster Carr has 7/16 20 threaded rod by the foot for only $6 and some odd change. 90322A140 . You would just cut to length and dress the end with a grinder.
You could also just buy 3" long sections of this for $1.75 each, 98750A474 from mcmaster.
 
I did order these McMaster-Carr 7/16-20 3 inch studs (98750A474). Thanks so much for finding these, as I discovered 7/16 studs are a common wheel stud and that is all I found after 2 hours of googling. Lots for links to wheel studs. These forums are a life saver. I will update this topic when all my parts arrive. I have everything off my 1949 Farmall H. I need to put the new (used) gas tank, new sediment bowl, and new fuel line, back on. The carb has been rebuilt. My lesson is, never let 5 gallons of gas sit in the tank for 10 years, my bad.
 

UPDATE - Gas Tank is back On, New Sediment Bowl On, Fuel Line is On. Just when I thought I was done.... The new fuel line came with the correct size fittings, BUT, they slide off the end of the fuel line. The ends of the fuel line is not rounded like my old (clogged) fuel line. What can I do to correctly seal the ends of the fuel line so it will not leak?
 
(quoted from post at 19:04:55 06/15/18)
UPDATE - Gas Tank is back On, New Sediment Bowl On, Fuel Line is On. Just when I thought I was done.... The new fuel line came with the correct size fittings, BUT, they slide off the end of the fuel line. The ends of the fuel line is not rounded like my old (clogged) fuel line. What can I do to correctly seal the ends of the fuel line so it will not leak?

Post a pic, but i am guessing that you have not tightened them enough.
 
Mine does not have a ferrule and fuel line
is smooth on the end. Where can I buy a
ferrule and is there a special tool to
install and can flare the end of my fuel
line so it will not leak?
 

As long as the nut looks just like that one you can usually buy the ferrule at a good hardware store.
 
I was able to buy the ferrule and a flaring
tool to expand the end of the fuel line. I
should be good to go when the temperature
gets cooler....
 
the nut has the sealing portion on the end of it on the old one. I can't tell if the new but has enough area before the threads to compress and seal to the line like the old one
 

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