fball1208

Member
We just picked up a 574 and the lights dont work. I suspect it has a fuse somewhere that is possibly blown or gone all together. I searched the parts online and came up with a 1A 3AG fuse. Suspecting i can locate this on the tractor (havent yet so thinking its gone), have found a cut wire where the fuse should be. Can i put in an inline fuse holder with a 1A blade fuse?

Thanks
 
NOT sure what fuse you "found", but a 1 Amp fuse ain't gonna run any headlights!

Must be for the gauge circuit or alternator lite (if so equipped).
 
(quoted from post at 12:52:53 06/13/18) We just picked up a 574 and the lights dont work. I suspect it has a fuse somewhere that is possibly blown or gone all together. I searched the parts online and came up with a 1A 3AG fuse. Suspecting i can locate this on the tractor (havent yet so thinking its gone), have found a cut wire where the fuse should be. Can i put in an inline fuse holder with a 1A blade fuse?

Thanks
Here you go as to fuse size, determined by wire size. You can always go smaller - and you might for certain delicate instruments but light bulbs ain't. You probably have 14 or 16 gauge. You also could determine your amperage requirement. Total bulbs amps = Each bulbs watts X volts.

Suggested Fuse Sizes

Wire Gauge Recommended
Maximum Fuse Size
00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps
These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe.
 

Dont know what 1a fuse i found either :p but figured it wasnt it i think there is a fuse holder in the dash, but also figured the lights are fused. Searching for a few min just a little bit ago before i had to come to work i found a broken fuse holder (at least looks like it) that i believe has part of a fuse in it along with a spade connector on the end. Also found what appears to be 14-16ga wire leading to it. i am now thinking this is the lighting circuit. Any idea on what size fuse to use 15Amp. Tractor only has the high and low beams in the fenders as the work light is missing which i am going to replace with an LED one in the future. The plugs there the lights gone
 
Hi, do you have a wiring diagram of your 574?

Check for bad grounds, there is one ground in behind the grill for head lights and one ground on the rear by rear of seat on deck
plate bolt.
The other problem is the Molex connectors, depending on vintage of your 574 there may be a Molex connector under left side of
battery box and another under deck plate by rear of seat.

JimB
 
(quoted from post at 18:18:04 06/13/18) Hi, do you have a wiring diagram of your 574?

Check for bad grounds, there is one ground in behind the grill for head lights and one ground on the rear by rear of seat on deck
plate bolt.
The other problem is the Molex connectors, depending on vintage of your 574 there may be a Molex connector under left side of
battery box and another under deck plate by rear of seat.

JimB

i just found some diagrams online. i believe its about a 74 vintage. It does not have front light mounts it has fender lights. i did also find a broken fuse holder with a spade on the one end and connected up on the other. Im going to put an inline on it tomorrow and see if i can find where the spade plugs into.
 
so after some more digging today found that what i thought was a broken fuse holder is actually the parking brake light indicator. Also found the fuse in the system is a 30a that is in the dash. Still no lights so gonna have to try and trace the wiring around to see what i can come up with.
 
Lights are pretty easy to check even if you don't have a clue what you're doing with wiring. You just need one lead with a probe attached to the positive terminal. Start at the light and apply power and see if the light turns on. If it doesn't, confirm a good ground and try again. If no light then it's a fixture/bulb issue. If it lights, just work your way back the wiring until it no longer lights and you'll find the problem pretty quickly.
 

Hopefully ill get some time to check these out soon. Found a few wires unplugged think they maybe the lights but have to remove a side panel to get to them and havent had the time yet (finally dry so means hay everywhere)LOL
 
Has anyone rewired from scratch these types of lights? Got some time to check it out and most of the wiring is cracked and in bad shape. I believe if i can get power to the fender area the lights will work so was going to run new wires but looking for some advice on how to do it neatly, harnesses are way to expensive to go that route
 
My free advice is to rewire the entire tractor, if the lighting is in bad shape.

I have rewired 3 of them, completely. I study the functionality and the routing of what's there, make my own diagram. I label/tag the old harness, as its removed, with tape in case of questions along the way, and then go at it. Need a supply of ring terminals and butt splices. I use "adhesive" shrink tube. There are weatherpacked fuse holders (mini flat blade style) on ebay, as well as weatherpacked relays if you need one of those.

I use THHN wire which is a stranded industrial wire for pulling inside conduits, but, its gasoline, oil, solvent, and water resistant. Mostly its #10 and #12 awg wires, although I have put in some #14s.

I use split black conduit after some wires start running, this is very abrasion and chafe resistant. I use regular Scotch 33 electrical tape to merge the branches of the harness, just like your vehicle's wire harness.

I get a new B+ cable and a new braided ground strap, and also put the entire B+ cable in its own split conduit all the way to the starter motor.

Then its going back to see about supports, sometimes the old supports will work, other times I make new, either bent round-wire or flat sheetmetal hooks. The black colored zip ties are UV stabilized and will last outdoors.

This usually takes me about a week to complete, working on it daily after my other job. It seems like I'm giving you a lot of details, but the overarching idea is to put good materials in that are going to last a large number of years.
 

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