Need a segmented fan belt for 350U.

I think the size may be 7/8" at top of belt as the drive pulley (on crank) does look wider than 5/8". The adjustable pulley on the fan itself looks a little more forgiving. I am a surprised that literally NO ONE in the vehicle maintenance field here has any idea what these are. And prices online are pretty high. If I have to pick one up on my drive out from NY Catskills to Oberlin,OH this week I can do that. Would just be happy get one for under $80.
 
Non-segmented ones (like the one I got from YT) need to have the bolt that holds the front axle on removed to clear the the bottom of the pulley, that's probably why there was a segmented belt on it when I got this thing 13 years ago. On the Utility with a backhoe/FEL and front hydraulic pump the casting for the front engine mount, pump mount and front axle pivot anchor bolt are all one mass. Open to suggestions......!
a270211.jpg
 
Should be a 5/8 wide size B belt. You can get any size you need at McMaster Carr, they sell it by the foot.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=1d90u8h
 
the fan belt is 7/8 ... dont even think of 5/8 as that is way too narrow. dealers and napa have those belts. no sense worrying about it , as they have parts book and will give you the correct one. thats their job anyhow. that belt is less than 40.00 from them.
 
Wow :shock:

How do you even take that apart? The hex bolt looks like its almost rubbing on the crank pulley...

But, I don't know which one would be extracted first...there must be some other type of fasteners which have to be removed (bolster, etc)...first
 
I know the dilemma all to well,
To replace the broken, ran till it fell to pieces fan belt on my 300 Utility with a FEL and a Front mounted hydraulic pump, I had to:


Remove all the front sheet metal, the radiator and all related parts,
Disconnect the front hydraulic pump from the mounting bracket, then disconnect the pump mounting bracket from the engine to allow movement of the pump, then remove the drive shaft from the adapter on the front pulley.
I removed the four bolts for the front axle pivot, then jacked up the chassis high enough to have clearance to install a new belt.
I chased all the threads in all the castings with PB Blaster, it made putting it back together a lot easier.
It was a whole lot of labor and a PITA, but I couldn't see any other way to do it....Tom
mvphoto18192.jpg
 
Yeah, changing this fan belt doesn't look so simple. And I've looked at it a lot. Removing the crank pulley and U-joint hydraulic pump drive that's attached to that COULD be an option but if it's pressed on that gets even more interesting. I haven't heard from anyone here who has actually changed one of these belts on a 350 Utility with the backhoe/FEL and front hydraulic pump. I guess that means this creature is more rare than I thought so I'll just spring for the segmented belt.
 
Thanks so much for the reply! I had literally described what the ordeal might involve 10 seconds before your explanation showed up. Glad I'm not just missing something obvious because I understand now that it's those front mounted pumps and drives that change everything. Glad you got yours done. I'm working by myself outside in the dirt and if this segmented belt thing works as advertised I'll post some photos and practical results. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this type of belt technology has made some advances in the last few years.
 
I'm not saying this is the correct and proper way, but have you thought about the link belts, that you add and remove links to achieve the correct size? You could put it in place without removing nearly as much stuff and then connect the two ends using needle nose pliers to make putting it together easier. I have done this when I need a belt on the spot and a piece of equipment needs to get going again quickly.
I have never seen one of these fail and I pulled a farmall M turning many more than stock rpms with one of these belts on the crank to water pumps for many years.
2275d1343567158-fan-belt-whole-house-fan-brh2ze-mk-kgrhgookk-ejllmyq-kbj-en1z-qw-_12.jpg
 
Ordered from McMaster-Carr. Picking up the segmented belt Thursday in Aurora, OH which is easier for me due to a whole bunch of reasons.
 
It was bad enough doing this "project" in my garage on a cement floor, sorry you aren't in the position to do the same.
Positive of all the labor and time is all new hoses, clamps, cleaned up all the headlight wiring, ect. So probably won't have to deal with that part of the tractor again in my lifetime, Good Luck To You...Tom
 
I would loosen that bolt head a half turn and cut it off with a sawsall. Then I would back it out a stage at a time if it does not clear the pulley. I would then replace the belt! I would then put a stud in the hole, rather than a bolt (grade 5). I would thinner hardened steel washer under a hardened nut. The nut would be threaded onto the stud before installation to allow the stud to be screwed into the pivot. Jim
 
I was thinking a socket head cap screw (internal allen drive) might be a possible choice, but would definitely have to measure. While the head is round and smaller, the height is slightly greater than the hex head screw.
 

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