IH 350U fan belt pulley?

Tried posting this earlier but it didn't show up. Segmented,adjustable fan belt failed. The moveable pulley half is locked in place because the lock bolt is frozen and corroded in place. Used TRIZOL, WD40, heat. I was going to use a solid, real fan belt I got from Yesterday's Tractors but see that the tractor design doesn't allow room for sliding the belt over the crank pulley. What's the best procedure for getting the moveable puley loose? Does it require grinding off the top of what is now a mostly destroyed set screw, drilling it out and trying to use another bolt?
 
Looks like it posted this time without photo.
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Best way to deal with that is to weld a washer on it then a nut that fits over it and good chance it will come right out. But yes you may need to remove some sheet metal etc. to get into it to weld it
 
I've always had good luck doing thing that way and with all you have sticking up you should be able to get a real good weld on it
 
If I remember correct the 350 used a non adjustable pulley and adjustment strap to pivot generator. Think the non adjustable pulley was a smaller diameter than the adjustable will go to. Belt may be the wrong length for your setup. Use heat to get bolt out and pulley loose on threads. Whole pulley will come off generator if afraid of damaging the generator.
 
i would vibrate the body where the bolt is with an air punch and use a set of vise grips to remove that bolt. thats an easy fix.
 
Okay the deed of welding to it may be already done. If not here is what I recommend you do first. I want you to basically try to slightly mash the boss..bump..on the pulley that the set screw is in. This will probably be a 2 man job. One person will hold a 2 pound hammer or other heavy steel object solidly against the nub or boss on the side shown in the photo. The other will take a ball peen hammer..claw hammer in a bind..and pound on the other side as if you are trying to smash the threaded hole. You may need a heavier punch 3/8 - 1/2 in diameter to get access. Give it a good solid 8-10 whacks. Spray it with your favorite penetrating juice and give it 5 or so more. Then clamp a vise-grip on it and gently see if it will move if it does work it back and forth to screw it out. You may even give it several good whacks right on the end as if trying to drive it in it?s threaded hole. All this is just intended to get microscopic movement of the rust adhereing the set screw to the cast pulley. Also smacking the pulling multiple places around the circumference on top of where the adjustment threads are will help in freeing that as well. And sorry I can?t be there to coach the hammer swings of novices, so use this advice at your own risk.
 
Looked it up to be sure on answer. 300 with adjustable pulley and 300 without adjustable pulley used the same belt. 350 6 volt tractors used the same generator as a 300 without adjustable pulley. 350 12 volt used a different belt.
All 350 and part of the 300 came from factory with a non adjustable pulley and adjustable bracket for belt setting. your generator is changed or the tractor is really a kind of early 300. 300U 501 to 2689 adjustable pulley 6 volt. 300U 2690 to 350U 14600 6 volt no pulley adjustment. 350U 14601 to end 12 volt no pulley adjustment. Info is not for LP or diesel tractors.
 
Almost done. Actually, no way to tell what kind of head that bolt had on it because when I went to remove it it had a 5/16" quarter inch drive socket stuck over the top. What was left was so chewed up that none of my vise grips would do anything but spin. It was so tight that in the thirteen years I've owned this TBL the socket didn't fly off. I figure the guy I got it from gave up trying to adjust it and I paid the price when the belt wore and quit driving the fan AND water pump.I took Old's advice and welded a washer on, put a large vise grip on it and turned. Weld held great but stud broke off even closer. No size of that bolt called out in the parts catalog but I ground it even, wore out three drill bits, tapped it with a 5/16X18 and the pulley half now turns free. Should I be using a 5/8" wide segmented belt? The old one looks kind of narrow. Thanks for the help one and all...
 
New ones are available, don't ask me how I know. I cleaned up the threads with a thread file and put a very light coat of never seize on the threads.
 
i just measured a used fan belt i had and it was 7/8" , so a new one should be about 1" wide. 5/8 might be correct for the generator, buy definitly not the fan.
 
Oh believe me I know they can break. Probably should have had some cautionary words in my post about that. Didn?t want him to baby it to much though because then the hammering would not be effective. Just hoped my last disclaimer would cover it. Sounds like he overcame none the less my congratulations!
 
That 'banging on the surrounding area' really has worked for me in the past. We know that metal WILL move if smacked hard enough. And with a little TRIZOL or something similar pooled around it....that helps too. And thanks for the reminder on these pulleys. Some old pulleys are just stamped metal but the ones with more complex engineering can be cast and more brittle. I can't imagine what it would have cost to replace this one.
 
Was that 7/8" wide? My catalog for the 350U doesn't say anything about the width but the one-piece from YT says 5/8" for the fan/crank pulleys. I just won't be able to get it around the crank so will probably have to use a 5/8" segmented.
 

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