IH 1066 Shifting Issues

Farmall65

Member
The clutch booster was rebuilt by local case
dealer. Installed it back on the tractor and
now whether its in forward gear or reverse
tractor randomly stops as if your pushing in
the clutch pedal. Brakes and steering work
as they should. Also check the hytran fluid
level and it is good. Curious if theres a
mistake I made when reinstalled the booster.
Anyone had this issue before? Thanks, Tanner
 
Did you get the dump valve hook up right and the spool valve set and do you have the hyd line hook up right and do you have the clutch padel gap Clarence and the free play
 
Add 5 galons of Hytran over filling it. No harm, and it solves a suction side leak that can cause your issue. Cheap fix if it works. Jim
 
OK here we do not have enough info . First off does you trans pressure teltale lite come on anytime ??? or is it like most and not working due to the bulb being burnt out ?? If the BIG red lite does not come on BEFORE YOU START THE TRACTOR once the key is turned on then lets FIX this first . Next do a COMPLETE clutch , trans brake and dump valve adjustment . You should have 5/8ths of and inch free travel between the clutch pedal and the platform. . But since it is a hyd. boosted clutch first ya must do a little adjusting of the booster and here you will need the BOOK . You then can look in the archives on the way i do a clutch , trans brake and dump valve adjustment as i have covered everything on this subject many times over the years on this site. BUT FIRST FIX THE STUPID lite so you know if your dropping trans/ T/A pressure THEN we can go from, there.
 
When I was working at one dealership I got called into another one because they had a 1066 but the TA wasn?t working at all I found was the kid made hoses for the pressure and return on the clutch booster and he had them backwards and it acted just like that
 
The TV posted:

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:14 pm
Post subject: Re: 1456 Hard to shift out of Reverse.



"Well not sayen your wrench does not know what he is doing , BUT there are times when you have to do a little playen to get everything just weight . I have a different way of doing the setting of the clutch , trans brake and dump valve , now maybe he does or does not know of doing it this way . But i will tell you how i do it . First get the clutch free travel set to what the book calls for , then put the book away . Now with the help of a third LEG you go over to the right side of the tractor and FIRST break loose the lock nut on the transmisson brake adjusting rod and back it off a couple turns , then pull the hair pin and remover the clevis pin and have that third leg push the clutch pedal down all the way to the STOP LUG on the pedal till it hit the floor plate and hold it there , Now push the brake lever back as far as you can and hold it there and turn the clevis out far enough that the clevis pin will slide into the hole . NOW let up on the clutch pedal and ADD one full turn and replace the clevis pin and hair pin , NOW this will all depend on how much ware there is in all the linkage from the clutch shaft down to the trans brake lever as on some i have had to go up to two turns OUT . This is a FEEL thing and comes with experience . Now you did say the TEL TALE light did work , good . Now have the THIRD LEG start the tractor and let it run at ideal with the transmission in N and park loc engaged The long 1/4 inch bolt that runs from the clutch pedal rod back along side the MCV and goes to a flipper that pulls on a small valve stem has a lock nut at the clevis , back it off several turns . also back off the adjusting bolt about 6-7 turns , NOw push the clutch all the way down till the stop lug hits the floor plat and HOLD IT THERE, Start to turn the dump valve bolt in slowly and have the Third Leg watch fore the tel tale light to come on and have him tell you to stop just as soon as it comes on . NOW you can let up on the pedal and shut the tractor off and ADD one more complete turn to the blot in and lock the lock nut down . NOw go test the tractor and see if this has helped , IF it seams a little better but just not quiet wright add a half more turn to the dump valve bolt . IF the gears don't seam to stop turning as fast as they should add a half turn to the trans brake . Sometimes ya get a fussy one and ya hae to fiddle with it . But you have a start and have and idea on where and what ya can do ."
 
Well, I got some bad news for ya. Even once you get the dump valve and TA spool adjusted and working, you've still got problems.

Your tractor should not stop entirely. There's a mechanical one-way clutch in the TA that does the pulling on the low side, no hydraulics necessary. If the tractor is stopping dead in its tracks, that clutch is out.

The tractor will go for quite a while like this, especially if you limit your hard pulling to when the TA lever is ahead. It still goes on the low side due to the hold-back clutches but they are not meant for pulling.
 

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