(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Cast welding anyone

F

fastfarmall

Well-known Member
I need some welding advise on the single drive lug, on the Super MTA, it always creaked on the left side,thinking it was loose wheel weights, well what it is, the cast piece, that touches the riveted on rectangle steel lug, has about the size of a nickle worn away, but a little deeper! So what rod do i use to fill in the divet with? I welded a lot of metal things but don't know squat about cast iron, peining, preheating etc!!! Help
 
If you get some ni-rod that is specifically made to weld cast , you can do it cold, just do about 1/4 inch at a time and peen it some right after you stop welding, wait a few minutes, and do another 1/4 inch and peen again, and so on. Make sure it is clean before you start. Grind it to fit afterwards. Be patient, and use the correct rod,even if it is expensive, you are probably going to need only 1 or 2 rods to do the job.
Good luck.
 
It's going to be a circular weld, about the size of a Nickle, and about twice the depth of a nickle at the deepest part, so will that be hard after it cools ??
 
not sure what cast ur talking about? the clamps that hold the rim on ? thats the only thing i can think of that will creak when loose. those clamps are not cast. just go to it with 7018 and shape it with a die grinder and then smooth it out with a blending disc. this is nothing to get all worked up over.
or post a pic of what your talking about.
 
The red center part, is made of cast iron, it has a recessed piece the corresponde's with the riveted on part on the wheel,with 4 staggered rivets, that is all the drives the wheel, on a drop center wheel, the 400 and later had a double beveled rim, that was driven by dimple's in the rim, which was a much stronger design. I can weld and straighten the rectangle driving edge on that, but haven't done much cast welding.
 
If it is a spot that is going to see wear, I would go with a nomacast nickel rod, it will be very hard when done. It's best to pre-heat and allow to cool slowly to avoid cracking, but I am not sure if this will be an issue with this, because I cannot picture how what you are talking about would cause a squeak. Can you post a picture?

I have brazed lots of cast in situations where it needs to be water or air-tight, like a crankcase or something.
 
Use NI-CI rod---nickel---should be DC reverse polarity
at 80 to 95 amps. As noted, weld some, & let it cool--
chip slag.

Pre heating something like this won't do much for making
a good weld, but probably wouldn't hurt.
Jim
 
It's one of the four Rivets, in the driving lug, thats riveted on to the rim, that has chewed away on the casting, on the corresponding cast iron driving half, on the rear of the tractor. If you seen a rim off of a tractor you will see the head on the rivet is about the size of a nickle, and that what has started to wear away the cast iron on the wheel opening! don't know how to put a picture on here.
 
So it's just a worn spot in the edge of the cast wheel center? Was the wheel rim ran loose on the rim or something? Is it just a cosmetic spot that you are wanting to touch up?
 
If you keep the six clamps tight on the rim you will not have the riveted on lug hit your wheel. I'd weld up the rim, you will have to have the tire/tube off, but you shouldn't be able to see the worn spot on the cast center unless yo really really try. Won't hurt a thing.

I've had both my M and SH on really hard pulls and never had the rim slip on the cast wheels. The M did creak a bit years ago but tightening the four big capscrews on the axle clamps stopped that.
 
There was a flaw in the casting, that kinda made the lug not make good square contact with the cast half, i used a hand file and got that casting nice and square now, but not sure how that rivet head chewed away from the casting. The six clamps were tight because been checking them with that iriating squeking over the years, and wheel weight's, but i found it.
 
IF it is just cosmetic, I think I'd go with some epoxy and be done with it.

I'd be afraid of overheat it and introducing a crack - I'm no pro, so maybe that's not a concern, but either way - epoxy's nice and easy to
shape to make it look nice, if nothing else.
 
Fastfarmall- isthis the cast center? Posting couple pics found if the net for illustration.


mvphoto17640.jpg



mvphoto17641.jpg
 
There is no opening in that outside ring, too connect with the drive lug, that's riveted on the rim, that's differant than mine on the Super MTA,There was a casting flaw on mine, just took off the orginal tire and was going to paint the rim silver. So i am sure nobody had seen it wearing away. This morning i took a hand file, and filed away lot of the extra metal, so that rivet in the drive lug wont want to jump over, and wear away from the casting half. I got a nice contact spot now for the two halves to touch, and drive from now !!Thanks for the help !
 
Have fixed each end of the slot the rim drive stop goes in after corners were spun off. Built up and squared both ends with 7018 rod and no problems. If rim stop or stops are damaged put a 3/8 or 7/16 steel strip on rim just shorter than slot and grind wheel slot just a little deeper. Using one piece of steel bar you can bend it to fit rim before attaching.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Oregon Tractor Jack
Welding on Farmall B Clutch Pedal
Replies
5
Views
479
BarnyardEngineering
BarnyardEngineering
B
Welding cracked Farmall Cub steering boltster
Replies
13
Views
427
Bookman
B
C
Welders.
Replies
3
Views
375
Hemmjo
Hemmjo
M
Welding/brazing cast
Replies
18
Views
1K
Leroy
L
I
Ariens S-16H engine trouble
Replies
16
Views
840
Don B.
D
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top