farmall 300 gov update

quit surging since bushing and new spring and got more rpm out of throttle,but the speed ajusting screw no. 11 is still not in the zone.it
says to shorten or lengthen throttle rod to bring speed adjusting screw into zone...adjusted rod both ways but did not bring into
zone...screw would have to be screwed all the way in..to reach stop...also since bushing an new spring,idle is alittle high..backed off
throttle stop srew and will not lower idle..i can increase idle but not lower it...any help is always appreciated.....dewy

What is the condition of the linkage above the engine? Jim

good ,,i dont see any thing bad sloppy everything feels tight. what should i be looki for..dewy

the throttle lever had to be drilled out one time had a nail in it to attach to throttle rod..hole was a little big used bigger cotter pin...i sure wish i had a good lever and rod that goes over gas tank so i knew they were right... anybody got a spare out there......thanks dewy

First check the throttle tube to carburetor for line up. Loosen the front two screws on tube. Holes are slotted and tube should find its level when the two screws at carburetor are tight. This is to make sure tube is not binding. Next leaving engine stopped remove the throttle rod out of governor arm on rear. Take the cover off or swivel from governor top. Take the pin out of short lever on throttle tube shaft. Move lever on back of governor full to rear of tractor. Hold the throttle shaft lever full up and adjust vertical linkage so the pin will slide in with everything in position. Next move lever on rear of governor full forward. Adjust the upper stop bolt on the spring arm so the fork is just pushed to idle speed. It should move the butterfly shaft in carburetor to the idle speed screw. Try to get close to idle speed of just below with the idle speed screw before adjusting the upper spring arm stop bolt. If no problem in governor the only thing left to do is check full RPM. When the lower stop bolt is made shorter at front, screwed to rear it increases spring tension and raises RPM. Screwed in to make it longer at front lowers Full RPM. Before hooking throttle linkage up be carful and move governor lever full to rear and forward by hand engine running to see if idle and full RPM is okay. If you get everything in adjustment hook the hand throttle linkage up and try. If you can't get idle and full speed and you could by hand to much motion is lost in linkage to governor.

D Slater has the answer. They do get twisted and bent. Jim

thanks again yall....dewy

Well looks like your going to have to address ALL the linkage and scync. the gov to the carb as i am sure that over the years someone got his grubby fingerss into adjustments due to normal ware or was tryen to get more out of the gov. for tractor pulling and had no idea of what he was doing . SOOOOOOOo with out someone that really knows want they are doing and having his hands on your tractor to see where to start we are all guessing . When everything is as it should be from the fist notch to the last notch of the throttle lever to the last notch will give you every thing you need . If the linkage from the gov to carb shaft is out then everything else is out . Depending on when and who did the last carb rebuild and what throttle shaft was used this will throw everything out of wack and with each time you remove and replace the carb one needs to address this adjustment . When adjusting this not everybodys adjustment is the same just like adjusting valves , you valev adjust will not be the same as mine . If you were close to my back yard it would be easy for me to show and teach you . But more then likely your not anywhere close to N/E Ohio.