1953 Farmall Cub won't start

Jim R

Member
I recently purchased a 1953 Farmall Cub in very good running condition. I will say that I am NOT a mechanic, but I do like to tinker with these old tractors.
This tractor has always started and ran fine. I had it running the other day and all of a sudden it started missing real bad and finally quit. I got it to start
back up but it was missing pretty bad, almost like I had water in the fuel. I checked for that and the fuel seemed to be OK. After tinkering with it a while, it
just wouldn't start. After replacing the points, plugs, condenser, rotor and distributor cap, I got it to start and it ran good for about 30 seconds or so and
then quit, and now it won't start. Can any of you IH guys out there give me some advice as to what to look for next? I took a spark plug and plugged it in to a
plug wire and laid it on the cylinder head and turned the engine over and I didn't see any spark. Is it possible that I may have a bad coil? If so, is there any
way to check the coil. Can I try using just any other 6 volt coil, or would it have to be the IH style coil that is on the tractor now? I'm just stumpted as to
where to go from here?? Thanks so much for any suggestions!!!
 
First thing you did wrong was threw parts at it before trouble shooting one should NEVER just throw parts at a problem because doing so is likely to cause more problems.
That said start here. Mag or distributor?
#1 check that you have a good blue white spark at the center wire of the distributor cap that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. Also do that at all 4 plug wires. If you do not have that check that the point have not slipped and or put the old condenser back in. Also with the point closed and the ignition on carefully open and close the points by hand. You should both see and hear a spark when you do that if no spark the points need to be cleaned. If you have that
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in UNDER 3 minutes.
Post back what you find for more help
 
Old has give you some good instructions on checking. From personal experience, your problems and the fact that when it quits you have no spark from the coil lead does point to the coil. That has become a common pattern for coil failures. No, you do not need the original IH style coil, any 6 volt coil will work. The + terminal should go to the distributor since it is still 6 volts.
 
Well, I have new points and condenser, as I said, and I have taken the coil from another IH tractor that I have, and installed it on my cub, { I know this coil is good for sure] and I still have no fire at the points. Is it possible that the new condenser is bad?? Not sure where to go from here except to a real mechanic?? Thanks for any advice!
 
Take the drain plug off the bottom of the carburetor and check your fuel flow. Needle valve in carburetor may be sticking or there may be gunk in the gas tank blocking the fuel flow. If that checks out ok, take one of the wires off the spark plug and put it on a loose spark plug. Ground the plug body against the engine block and turn the engine over to see if it fires.
 
Address the spark problem first. Don't worry about fuel. Without a spark, you can have all the fuel in the world and your engine won't run.

Yes, you could have a bad new condenser. All ignition parts are now made in China to a price point, so quality suffers. This is part of the reason for troubleshooting before throwing parts at the problem.

First thing you need to find out is if you have power to the coil. Ignition switches can go bad, wires break, ballast resistors (if equipped) can fail. Once you are sure the coil is receiving power, you need to determine if there is spark from the coil by pulling the end of the coil wire out of the distributor cap and holding it close to the engine block while cranking with the ignition switch ON.
 
OK, I got it figured out, Finally! Here is the problem..... I put the new condenser in the distributor first, then I put in the new points. There is somewhat limited visibility to the inside of the distributor because of the way it is positioned on the Cub engine. Aparantly, when I installed the new points, I didn't notice that the wire from the condenser had come off the contact where it is supposed to be fastened and was right there close but not actually contacting the little screw where it is supposed to be fastened. You had to look real close to see that it wasn't where it was supposed to be. I haven't worked on an engine like this for a while so I didn't catch this mistake at first. The reason I put all these new parts on the engine from the start was because after it started missing like it did, after checking that I didn't have a fuel problem, I pulled the distributor cap and saw that the contacts on the inside were badly worn and didn't look very good, then after checking the points, I saw that they were too burned, so I went to my local Tractor Supply Store looking for parts, I just decided to go ahead and buy the "tune up kit" with points, plugs, condenser, rotor and distributor cap, since I had never changed the plugs on the tractor since I have had it. So the moral of the story here is just pay close attention to what you are doing when working on these engines and don't overlook any details! The tractor starts and runs better than it ever has, now! Thanks so much to all of you that offered your suggestions and advice! I sincerely appreciate this website and all you folks that responded!
 

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