Farmall m broke seat bolts

Farmallfarmer95 · Feb 18, 2018

While taking the 4 bolts out that hold the seat to the transmission cover, they snapped. Was wondering if anyone had any experience with removing the threads still in the tranny cover. 3 are still Sticking above the cover. They are really rusted in there.. when I heated them up to take them off it just made them brake easier. wasn?t sure if i could drill the holes then tap them because of metal shavings getting into the tranny. Any help is appreciated thanks

khouse6 · Feb 18, 2018

feller , near me, welded a heavy washer to the bolts and then a nut to the washer and put red wrench (heat) and backed them out. he did this on an engine block.

Farmallfarmer95 · Feb 18, 2018

That?s the only other idea I had except these bolts are rusted so bad I don?t know if my welds will hold. I had to use a 4 foot breaker bar to even get some movement on the bolts and then they all snapped

redforlife · Feb 18, 2018

Weld a nut onto the remaining broke off bolt. The heat from welding helps break the bolt loose. That's what I have had the best luck doing. I have never had much luck with drilling holes and using easy outs. I usually just always end up with a worser mess if I try that. Like a twisted off easy out.

DanMD · Feb 18, 2018

I used a breaker bar and broke a couple of bolts myself. I was told it was better to use an impact wrench. Supposedly much less likely to break things. Anyone know if this is true?

Bob · Feb 18, 2018

Heat the remains of the bolts RED HOT. allow to cool to ambient.

Repeat.

Repeat.

Repeat.

Weld flat washer to the remains of the bolts, then weld a nut to the flat washer. Allow to cool to ambient, unscrew, likely easily by hand.

Do NOT ralph on the remains of the bolts while HOT, you'll only make things worse.

fastfarmall · Feb 18, 2018

Use a 6011 rod, 3/32 diameter

Janicholson · Feb 18, 2018

The holes are not through holes, they have reinforcements under the deck. Heating and repeating several times to red heatand cooling, then welding the nut is best. The heat destroys the rust's integrity. Jim

rustred · Feb 18, 2018

true.

BarnyardEngineering · Feb 19, 2018

+1 more for the weld-a-nut technique.

It works so well that I don't even bother trying to take out seat base bolts anymore without welding a nut on first. Heck I'll cut perfectly good bolt heads off just to weld a nut on so the bolt doesn't twist off.

The keys to success are, getting just the bolt hot, and most importantly, LETTING IT COOL after welding the nut on. The heat swells the bolt which stretches the hole slightly and when it cools it is now microscopically loose in the hole. Comes right out like it was put in there yesterday.

DR. EVIL · Feb 19, 2018

When I bought two surplus battery box seat bases about 1981, one was to replace the rusted out battery box on my Stage II Super H. Thought it would be an easy job. Once the battery was out the cap screws holding the box on were rusted up bad, the heads were tapered, put a wrench, socket, even a Vice-Grip on it would slide up and off the head. Ripped the sides off the box, sat on a 5 gallon bucket and drove the tractor up next to the shop with the welder. Dad hunted up four big hex nuts, couple sticks of his largest 6011 rod, turned welder wide open and welded nuts solid to the capscrews. Few minutes later they turned right out. MIG doesn't work as well, not enough heat in the welds.

Ellis Kinney · Feb 19, 2018

Heat them up some and melt candle wax into the threads. This has helped me in the past. Ellis

Farmall m broke seat bolts

Farmallfarmer95

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khouse6

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Farmallfarmer95

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redforlife

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DanMD

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Bob

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fastfarmall

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Janicholson

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rustred

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BarnyardEngineering

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DR. EVIL

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Ellis Kinney

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