New to me f30

I know it should have a f4 mag on it but it has a fairbanks and morse on it instead. Model x4a11. It has good spark but there is no spark advance or way to ground the mag to kill engine. Am i missing something or overlooking something. The levers on the steering column are not attached to anything. All the linkage is missing.
 
Post some pictures of the tractor, the mag and the steering column. That will make it easier for us to reference our "Advice."
 
(quoted from post at 18:03:23 02/17/18) Post some pictures of the tractor, the mag and the steering column. That will make it easier for us to reference our "Advice."

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Here is a pic of the tractor. Ill have to get better ones tomorrow of the levers and the mag.
 
(quoted from post at 18:57:34 02/17/18) Nice F-30. What year is it? I have a 32 and a 36. I think there great, real beasts. Enjoy it, Mark.

Thank you. It is a 37’. I will definatly enjoy it once i get it all put back together that way it is supposed to be. I have several f20’s but this is my first 30. Im excited to have it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:04 02/18/18) A F-30 is basically the same as a F-20 with larger pistons and a water pump.

Bigger engine, transmission, bull gears, rear axels, gas tank and im sure more.
 
I "Sneak" a wire hooked to the condenser in a F-4 Mag out the back of the mag case and connect the wire to a "One Wire" On/Off switch from a Letter series. This gives you a definite kill.
 
Your tractor has the push/pull throttle control replacing the column lever controls it had when it was new.
These were changed because after they got worn they didn't work as good, also has the variable speed governor
change. Many are this way, should work just fine, if you want to go back to original it can be done fairly easily
I have changed some back. An old friend had a 30 that had both, and he made both work.
 
(quoted from post at 07:22:14 02/19/18) Your tractor has the push/pull throttle control replacing the column lever controls it had when it was new.
These were changed because after they got worn they didn't work as good, also has the variable speed governor
change. Many are this way, should work just fine, if you want to go back to original it can be done fairly easily
I have changed some back. An old friend had a 30 that had both, and he made both work.

Ok that makes more sense now. That explains why there are two levers on the steering column. One spark advance, and one throttle controll. The push/pull throttle setup is really sloppy and worn out too so needs replaced as well. I guess since i have to replace it either way id rather go back original.

I have some stainless tubing close to the same size maybe ill fabricate my own.

On another note i pulled the odd ball mag off and put together a f4 out of spare parts I had and come to find out i have no compression in cylinders 3 or 4. I pulled the valve cover off and the valves are not stuck so im thinking stuck piston ring. It supposedly has sat in a barn since the mid 90’s untill a year ago. I took the plugs out and with a light looking into the cylinders the walls look like new to my supprise. As clean and smooth as a new one. I poured some sea foam in the holes to let it soak for a couple days.
This thing compaired to a f20 to hand crank is night and day. It really takes some effort to turn the f30 over. Is that the norm?
 

Just out of curiosity, can the pistons on the f30 be pulled out of the bottem of the sleeve and out the inspection openings? Sounds like a good idea anyhow. Even if i remove the oil pan to pull down and out that way. Anything is better then pulling the head off if you dont have to. Was just a thought. Any input from someone who has tried it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Billy, I have not worked on one of those type engines with the crank side covers. Here is my two
cents concerning the piston removal you are asking about. If you could get them out that way,
which I doubt is possible you could not recompress the piston rings to reinstall them. It sounds like
you have probably never done a complete engine tear down and reassembly. That?s okay
everyone has to start somewhere and asking questions here is a good place to do that. Thanks
for saving a good ole tractor. Good luck!
 

I am a fairly experianced mechanic. Just not so much in these old tractors. Ive built bunches of engines, and transmissions for cars and trucks. If there is nothing in the way as far as webbing in the lower end of the block, the piston and rod should be able to slide out. And if it will come out it will go back in one way or another.

I think ill pressureize the cylinders one at a time with air and determine exactly where the compression is being lost before i tare anything down.
 


Here is a pic of a f30 block with crank still installed. To me it looks like there is nothing in the way to prevent it. But We all know looks can be deceiving.

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I've talked to guys who have pulled pistons out of the inspection covers, in the field, on
F20s. F30s are probably the same. They say the bottom of the sleeve is tapered, to allow the
piston rings to compress, when reinstalling the piston. Hope this helps.
 

I hope you sir are right. It would sure make my work alot easier and cheaper. I should be able to confirm one way or another within the next week if i can find time to get back out and dig into it.
 

i got antsy tonight so i went ahead and pulled the oil pan off to take a look. And sure enough the bottems of the sleeves are infact tapered. Figured why stop there. I went ahead and pulled all four pistons out of the bottom. To my suprise none of the rings were stuck what so ever.

So the head is coming off next. Valves must not be seating completley. I will measure the cylinder bore and hopfully just bead hone them. Does anyone know what the ring gap should be on this engine? Better yet where can i find a list of specs for this engine. I have the owners manual for f20 will the basic torque specs and tolerance specs be the same?

On a side note once the pistons were out i was baffled by how much slop is in the wrist pins. Is this normal? Not sliding side to side movement but rocking the rods back and fourth on the pins.
 
There are no factory torque specs for either the F20 or F30. I torque the head to 75-80 ft/lbs. Rod bolts I do not torque, just tighten firmly and then a little more until I can get the cotter pin in.

Wrist pin clearance in bushing is supposed to be pretty close, about .0003"-.0005" I believe, I don't have the service manual in front of me right now.

Pistons have to be installed and removed from the bottom as the big end of the rod is too big to fit through the sleeve.
 
As to a way to "kill" the engine. I've never seen a ground button or kill switch on a Regular, F-20 or F-30.
Since all these were run on distillate, "tractor fuel", kero, etc. the way to kill the engine was to shut off the fuel supply (at the tank) and let em run til they die. Then, when you go to start/re-start, you turn on the gasoline, start em and when a bit warm, turn off the gasoline and turn on the "other" fuel. kelly
 

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