F-4 timing- to make sure.........

banjoman09

Well-known Member
To follow my last post ; just to make sure - I have the mag set so when I rotate the flywheel up to the timing mark; the points snap after "D-C"...almost to "E-C"...but not quite. This is with the lever pulled clear up before I removed the point cover. Sound good? "Happy Super Bowl to all you guys!"
 
sounds good if your on the compression stroke also at TDC. depends how much after TDC you are firing. i like to get it to fire right at TDC or 2 degree's after, then i have the lever to advance timing. i check this with a straw or long screwdriver as i am pulling on crank ever so slowly while holding screwdriver and you can feel the piston coming then as its hesitating at top dead centre just before it goes down is where i want it to fire. then i look at my marks and check them. you do this fine adjust ment with those 2 1/4 inch bolts. heck with the super bowl , tractors are way more fun. sounds like you have it. lets hear that thing run already.
 
You will never get it started with the level all the way up -- that is the "Kill" position that grounds the condenser.
Put it all the way down and back about 15 degrees. After you have it started, push the lever all the way down -- this should be the "Sweet Spot."
 
that is true. it needs to be moved it slightly clockwise to see the retarded spark. when at full throttle working that is when the spark gets fully advanced, fully clockwise.
but if its not set to factory settings you can do all kinds of things.
 
Sounds good...and yes I know all the way up is where you kill it; but im just trying to set the timing. Like i say- the points are opening half way between D_C and E_C..on the flywheel. Thanks.
 
Get the Pulley and Flat Belt!
With another tractor turning the engine, you can adjust the "Spark" and everything else to get the engine running like a fine watch. Until then, you are wasting a lot of mental and physical effort.
 
On a W-30, you do not need a straw or screwdriver. Just open the front "Observation Hole" on the left side of the engine. When you see or feel the rod to be straight up and down in the center of the cylinder, you are at TDC.
 
ooh really , with a screwdriver you got much better feel. and i have a spark plug set up so when the mag snaps and plug fires you are feeling the piston moving as its coming up to tdc, SNAP ! then check it againt the marks. just watching a rod move is not accurate. but you can do what ever works for you. now you tell how you know your on the compression stroke just by watching a rod go up and down. i will tell you which cyl is on compression stroke at TDC just by watching the valves move with valve cover off. that is without removing any spark plugs or side covers. those holes are for inspecting and feeling rod clearance.
 
i dont think so ... just set it correctly the first time and she will run on 3rd pull of crank.
 
OK....yes, D-C is on the timing mark - at compression stroke with screwdriver in plug hole....as said above- im just waiting on warmer weather guys to go in my cold shed! My only issue now is " my mag doesnt have the "bale hook"...so I need to push a nail in the oil hole- I guess? to disengage the impulse and then check to see if the points open at this time. Thanks to both of you guys for helping....:) I will let you know.
 
I think you both have your own way - which is fine. My book I bought for this tractor says this : "points should open somewhere between the D_C mark and 8 degrees below the mark- when timed correctly." Doesnt that mean "before D_C" ?
 

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