confor matic piston?

I have a confor matic piston in my 560
gas, the # looks like GE 370, its has 3
compression rings on it, anyone know
how old these pistons are?
And does have any old books around to
tell me what size rings it has?
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I bought new sleeves and pistons last year for my 560 gas that the pistons looked very similar to those from YT parts, and the second tractor had the same ones in it but I just got new rings from YT parts and they fit good. They both run good.
 
Tractor is burning oil like crazy on number 5 and I tore into it hoping to find a wore out/broken ring, tractor had a pretty major head job done before I bought it but Im tempted to have my machine shop check the guides and maybe put the better valve seals in while I have the head off, maybe pete23 or janicholson will guide me
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Looks like you have a scuffed piston there. Better measure that skirt as it could easily be collapsed several thousands of an inch which will make it unstable in bore.
 
If the back side of the intake valve all the way to where the stem enters the guide is coked up (black fat carbon deposit) the intake guide to stem is likely to be loose. I also recommend PC type positive valve seals. The piston has some scuffing (as pointed out) it also looks like the rings are not sticking out as far as I think they should (with the piston out of the bore). If the rings are placed in the bore, what is the ring gap. It should be ~.004" per inch of bore. The piston does look washed (clean from oil going past it) Measure piston fit with long feeler gauge with the piston in the bore. Measuring the bore must be done with an accurate bore gauge or telescopic gauges and micrometers. Jim
 
Good eye, Pete there is scuffing on the one side of the piston... Im afraid an overhaul might be in order sooner than I hoped..
 
I will try to measure the gaps in the rings soon,I think having my machinist check the stem to guide clearances is in order to, Im also going to try to get him to cut my guides to take the perfect circle seals as well... This is getting more expensive than I hoped..
 
the rings look like the standard 1/8" for the compression and 3/16 for the oil. just measure them. looks like you have a ring problem there as that piston is scored as pete said. also if the top of those guides are tapered they dont require a seal. i know the 282 diesel engine uses no seals. have non on mine either. these old tractors had no seals from factory. i see u have umbrella seals on there now, plus u said the head was just done. i highly think that is not your problem. looks like engine was run too hot and scored piston. need to check the rest. you can definitly use the seals but i prefer not to. if the guide is flat on top then use seals.
be nice to know what the compression was before tear down.
 
About valve seals on those C-221, C-263 -C-291 and C-301 engines, IH went through a lot of yes you do and no you don't. In the end, along with the use of low ash oil, improved rings they finally and lastly came upon a system that works.

The exhaust valves were fitted with umbrella seals that fit into the groove in valve stem and the intake had a new valve guide with a Perfect Circle soft seal (not the seal with Teflon insert). You could machine the old style intake valve guides to accept the new seal.

The tool had a stop for correct height of finished valve guide. Man I did a lot of them on engines with good guides and also installed a lot of new style guides. There is nothing wrong with using the perfect circle seal with Teflon insert if so desired but they are not included in the gasket packages and cost considerably more.
 
called my machine shop yesterday, its $3 a guide to have them cut to accept the better valve seals... Seems like a no brainer..
I have 1 bad scuffing wore out piston, that I can't get a replacement for, and I got a good ridge on the other 5 holes, I got a overhaul set coming, might as well fix it right..
 

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