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Farmall M

R

Ryan.T.Rebel

Member
Hi I'm going to restore a farmall M as a first restoration project i would like to make it as close to original as possible but I haven't restored any thing before any tips or help.

Thanks Ryan
 
Just be aware as the condition varies further from new the more money it is going to take. I know that should seem to be obvious but realize that you can stick several thousand dollars into something and still only have it be worth 1,500 dollars give or take. Do it for the love and not the expectation you can make a successful flip on it.
 
"Original" can depend on the year produced. I believe they were all available with no options such as electrical, belt pulley, PTO, etc and at least some early ones with steel wheels.
 
An M is a simple tractor to 'restore'.There are a 'bazillion' parts out there. Since this is your first 'restore' don't be surprised or be discouraged if it not perfect. Few actually are.there will be room for improvement on the next.Perfection takes practice.Also,If there is anything special,or something less common,leave it.Homemade 'options'/equipment/mods are especially interesting. Clean it up if needed,but leave it. It's a lot more interesting to look at than the same old same old 'perfectly' restored old tractor.Pay attn. at the next tractor show you go to. See which tractors get the most attn.The perfact ones,or the ones that are a bit different.
 
As 986 said,you will end up with way more money in it than it will ever be 'worth'. So do it for the love of the hobby.Because you damn sure wont make any money!
 
I will suggest starting with a Farmall H, parts are available as well and not near as heavy. Wont take as much paint, but very near the same as a M. Just my thoughts, have done both.
 
Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Book is the Best How To book for restoring M & H. It won't tell you how
to paint, or sand rust, but shows what it should look like when done. What decals go where, and how far
from and edge they should be. What gets painted and what you mask off.

Guys here seem to fixate on what stuff costs. What you originally pay for a tractor, what you spend on it,
what it's worth afterwards. My thoughts are if you want a nice M after your done, buy a nice one and spend
the money for good paint and prep, good decals, new tires if you want. Then enjoy your tractor. NEVER KEEP
TRACK OF THE DOLLARS. Save the reciepts but never add them up. And never let anyone else see them.

And enjoy your nice M every time you run it.
 
Yes, by all means have the tractor in good shape with the leaks fixed. Use original parts as much as possible, but if replacement parts are
needed, get them from a supplier that features OEM parts......most retail farm stores don't. Then get a Guy Fay book or a original sales
brochure with good pictures of the tractor as it was sold new.....Don't try to make it look "like Grand-dad's used to look". Spend money and time
on making tractor authentic, not on a Duesenberg paint job that tries up cover wrong or damaged parts or misplaced decals.
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:15 01/22/18) An M is a simple tractor to 'restore'.There are a 'bazillion' parts out there. Since this is your first 'restore' don't be surprised or be discouraged if it not perfect. Few actually are.there will be room for improvement on the next.Perfection takes practice.Also,If there is anything special,or something less common,leave it.Homemade 'options'/equipment/mods are especially interesting. Clean it up if needed,but leave it. It's a lot more interesting to look at than the same old same old 'perfectly' restored old tractor.Pay attn. at the next tractor show you go to. See which tractors get the most attn.The perfact ones,or the ones that are a bit different.
Click to expand...

Like the hitch welded on to the front end. And it has the wrong muffler.
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:04 01/22/18)
How do I get the right color and the right decals and that kind of stuff or will that be in that book
Click to expand...

Search here and on Red Power, read for days
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:18 01/22/18) NEVER KEEP
TRACK OF THE DOLLARS. Save the reciepts but never add them up. And never let anyone else see them.

And enjoy your nice M every time you run it.
Click to expand...

I did add mine up over the past 5 years and it is a fair amount!!

I tried to make it as original as possible including some M&W stuff, no fender extensions, still 6 volt, painted with 2150.

9451.jpg
 
Have at it . Tear into it and repair every worn part to a good serviceable condition. Lot of bearings and seals inside there. Like my wife told one of our acquaintances, we had every bolt out of it. She lied. After I got it all back together, I saw a broken off bolt in the front bolster where cultivator had been mounted years before. Well, no body is perfect. Restoration is in the eyes of the guy who is doing it and several different ideas will come forward.
 
(quoted from post at 00:30:21 01/23/18) How many coats of paint do I put on i was thinking about 3 does that sound good ?
Click to expand...

You follow the instructions for the paint you select.
 
(reply to post at 10:16:59 01/22/18)
Click to expand...

Ryan
Take lots of pics as you work on it
That way a year from now you can look back
And see how that piece went on
I know this from experience
Good luck
Dugger
 
Are you jumping many steps ahead to worry about paint? Have you fixed all mechanical problems, stopped leaks and repaired any sheet metal? If not maybe in year of two you'll have a paint question.
 
Took me four or five years before I had to worry about paint but then I ain't very fast and had to remove some farmer engineering I didn't care for.
a254693.jpg

a254694.jpg

a254695.jpg

a254696.jpg
 
Well, not bad I guess but the intake pipe and starter should be red, the rear axles flat black or unpainted and the seat should be silver duck
canvas over foam cushion. Sorry, but these comments are to help you, not to be overly critical. And regardless, it is a nice looking tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 14:11:23 01/25/18) Well, not bad I guess but the intake pipe and starter should be red, the rear axles flat black or unpainted and the seat should be silver duck
canvas over foam cushion. Sorry, but these comments are to help you, not to be overly critical. And regardless, it is a nice looking tractor.
Click to expand...

I am very aware of that but I figured the starter should be rebuilder black after all these years, the axles were painted when I got it.

Next time I have the hubs loose I will clean them up.

If you really want to restore the hoses, wiring and whatever got red at the factory. I did not paint the wiring or battery cables.

In the 70's the dealer I worked for done repaints by covering the gauges, tires, seat, steering & everything got red, axles included.
 
(quoted from post at 13:47:04 01/31/18) Does anyone know where i can get rims?
Click to expand...
lease submit pictures of tractor and rims. There are some real experts here who after viewing your rims and tractor can give good advice on fixing things and what to do next
 
The Radcliffe Co-op in Radcliffe Iowa has deep drop center rims in stock. Radcliffe is roughly 20 miles north of Ames on I-35 and maybe 10 miles east on county pavement . Google it. Get some good or new rubber on your new rims. Then get all systems running the way they should with no cobble or leaks. The LAST thing you want to do is paint. Spend your $$$ on good placement parts and do all the work yourself. No point in painting a tractor that runs/operates poorly and leaks oil and fluid unless its destiny is yard art IMO... Have fun and good luck!
 
mvphoto9959.jpg

Here is my 400. I've made a bunch of mechanical improvements since this picture. I kinda enjoy the rusty old tractor look so I may never paint it. But for sure I won't until it runs perfect...
 
From the photo looks like a decent tractor. You need to prioritize your work.

First start it, you may have to move it to a place to work on it
Before attempting to start: Check oil, crack drain plug to see if antifreeze/ water leaks out,
Disconnect fuel line at carburetor for good flow of fuel.
Put transmission in neutral

Once you get it running, drive it to check drive train (clutch, transmission, differential, rear axle and brakes. Check for leaks.

The tires and wheels appear OK in the picture.

Then after all the mechanical things are fixed then its on to the cosmetic items - Unlike doing a 1972 Plymouth Barracuda where the cosmetic items come first and are big $$$$.

In the future as this post is getting long, I would start a new post with new pictures.
 
Looks like a good solid old M. Has wide front and "Christman Tree" remote hydraulic valve (just in front of battery), nice extras. Also, I don't see pools of oil underneath - might be a good sign. Members have given you a lot of good advice. If you have any more questions, start a new post with appropriate pictures.
 
(quoted from post at 08:16:55 02/03/18)
10058.jpg


This is the only photo i have of it it is at my grandpa's house and i haven't been over there to get a better photo
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What is the other Farmall in this photo? Is that a B? The rear wheels look unusually small in diameter.
 
(quoted from post at 16:25:33 02/09/18)
(quoted from post at 08:16:55 02/03/18)
10058.jpg


This is the only photo i have of it it is at my grandpa's house and i haven't been over there to get a better photo
Click to expand...


What is the other Farmall in this photo? Is that a B? The rear wheels look unusually small in diameter.
Click to expand...

Yea that is a farmall B but the cluch is out of it.
 
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