Fuel question

I have a dual fuel M and a gas H. The last time I ran Farmalls was over 15 years ago on grandpas farm. I'm fairly sure ethanol wasn't really a thing back then but my memory is junk for that sort of detail.

My question now as I get into hobby farming is about the 5-15% ethanol mixes. Does that cause any harm with these old machines? It's possible to find straight gas but I might be paying a premium.

Thanks in advance.
 
been using that gas for over 40yrs now cars pickups and the As and B tractors no problems at all maybe here in IOWA suppliers do a better job with fuel delivery
 
Your tractors will run fine on E10 gas. Been running all of mine on the stuff 10+ years.

Where you WILL run into difficulties is if the tractor is sits idle for several months. The ethanol will absorb moisture from the air and cause all manner of problems with starting, build-up of varnish, corrosion of metal and soft fuel system parts, etc - a lesson I learned the hard way.

Recommend dosing the tanks with ethanol fuel stabilizer (like Stabil 360) then COMPLETELY filling the tank before parking. Or drain the ethanol fuel then refill the tank with straight gasoline. Be sure to run the engine a few minutes afterward to get the untreated fuel out of the fuel line and carb bowl, then close the fuel shutoff and let the engine run until it quits. (Makes the next startup MUCH easier!)

You can also completely drain the fuel system and store your tractor dry, but it's a PITA to accomplish. I only do this for a tractor I use just a couple weekends each December.
 
Back when these tractor where built the gas was no as good in many ways as it is today. So yes you can run your tractors on the cheapest gas you can find and they will run as good as they did back when they where built
 
Thanks for the feedback. Im not sure I heard about the ethanol and condensation before. I have nightmares about an old snowmobile with a steel tank.
 
I wouldn't recommend nor do I ever use any gasoline in my old tractors that has any ethanol in it. It can be pretty hard on "soft" parts - gaskets, rubber, plasctic, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 12:49:36 01/17/18) Your tractors will run fine on E10 gas. Been running all of mine on the stuff 10+ years.

Where you WILL run into difficulties is if the tractor is sits idle for several months. The ethanol will absorb moisture from the air and cause all manner of problems with starting, build-up of varnish, corrosion of metal and soft fuel system parts, etc - a lesson I learned the hard way.

Recommend dosing the tanks with ethanol fuel stabilizer (like Stabil 360) then COMPLETELY filling the tank before parking. Or drain the ethanol fuel then refill the tank with straight gasoline. Be sure to run the engine a few minutes afterward to get the untreated fuel out of the fuel line and carb bowl, then close the fuel shutoff and let the engine run until it quits. (Makes the next startup MUCH easier!)

You can also completely drain the fuel system and store your tractor dry, but it's a PITA to accomplish. I only do this for a tractor I use just a couple weekends each December.

I've been using E10 in a couple of Hs and my M for all of the 15 to 20 years that I've owned them. Never had a problem, and sometimes they set for 3 to 4 months in winter weather without so much as being started. Always fire right up in the spring when I need them.
 
They will run just fine on E10, that's all we have used for years. Our gas tractors sit for 6 months and start right up with
no problems. 50 years ago we used to have to put HEET in our gas tank once in awhile, always carried a bottle with, haven't
done that for 30 years now. I do put a quart of diesel in the gas tank with every 5 gallons of gas to reduce corrosion and
lower the octane, it's a stock Farmall C.
 
15 years of running old tractors on E10 here, there are no "soft" parts in the fuel systems and I have had no problems. Don't worry about it.
Zach
 
In a snowmobile I would run the better stuff but that is due to having more plastic parts in them. We run high test in the motorcycles we have due to alcohol and plastic parts not getting along with each other.

As for the moisture problem and the E-10 absorbing water yes it does if left stand in an open jug over long periods of time. Any alcohol will do that is left open and then the alcohol evaporates and the water is left behind
 
Looks like Leon and I agree that ethanol in gas is not good for these old tractors. I haven't had carb problems on my SH, M, or any of my air cooled 4-stroke engines, Kohlers and Onan. Been using ethanol free gas for years. Loaned a Cub Cadet to SON and told him to use straight 100% gas, said he couldn't get ethanol free gas in Iowa. Couple months later I have to buy a carb kit and make a 360 mile round trip service call and rebuild the carb on the tractor. The inlet of the carb ahead of the float valve was PACKED solid with what looked like large grains of sand, enough that it blocked gas flow. They were probably grains of rust.

Kwik-Trip has some of the highest detergent content available in their gasoline today. Their 91 octane Recreational gas is straight gas. It does cost more, but all my old engines run like it's 1964 all over again and I never have carb problems.
 
Just run the E10, or whatever.

Ive got some E85 in one of my Ms that's been it since last July, Started up nicely today in the 30 degree snow.
 
On my trips out to the midwest, I see old cars and things sitting outside that look to be rust free for the most part--- try that here on the east coast close to the ocean and they will turn into a pile of rust. This discussion goes on and on and on. If you live in an area like I do with high humidity ethanol gas will absorb water from the air fairly quickly. Ethanol gas is fine in newer stuff because the gas tanks are closed with better vents and the gas is used up quickly. Ethanol gas in the boating industry has made local mechanics a lot of money. In the end, it's a personal choice but I would rather spend a few more cents and not add water to my steel fuel tanks on purpose
 
E10 is fine.

The problems seem to be regional. I've got ethanol gas that's YEARS old and that tractor still runs fine. Even the fresh stuff certainly lasts more than a month, and I don't have to drain the tanks or run the engines dry either. I just put stuff away, and get it out again next time I need it. Tanks don't go rusty or anything like that. Only rusty tanks I've had are ones I've left completely empty.

Like Zach says, there's no "soft" parts on these old tractors even if ethanol was the doom-and-gloom boogeyman that people like to make it out to be.

I've personally seen lots of rubber parts ruined by the "old" gas, and never had a problem with "new" gas that I could attribute to the gas.
 
(quoted from post at 18:55:40 01/17/18) Just run the E10, or whatever.

Ive got some E85 in one of my Ms that's been it since last July, Started up nicely today in the 30 degree snow.

I have also experimented with E85. The M didn't know the difference. The H needed a little more warm up time, and then it was fine.
 
We have been running E-10 in our gasoline powered tractors since first introduced in Minnesota in the 1980's in the tractors we use regularly. These two are an H Farmall for mowing and a 3020 John Deere yard/loader tractor. I DO use the 91 octane premium in the parade/show tractors simply because the fuel will sit in the tank and not get used very rapidly. I have had a tractor get a carburetor "gummed up" a bit with old E-10 fuel if it sat too long. This was an older 656 Farmall.

I DO use E-10 in my 425 John Deere lawn and garden tractor, which I have had for about 10 years. It gets 60 hours per year put on the hourmeter.

The 91 octane premium gasoline in Minnesota tends to run at least 60 cents a gallon more versus E-10. In the town where I live near, I am unable to find a single fuel station which offers non-ethanol fuel. I have to buy it by the 5 gallon can in another nearby town, but the little bit I use, it is not a huge inconvenience.

I WILL NOT use E-10 in any 2 cycle engine, which includes an outboard motor, weed eater, and a chainsaw. My small engine mechanic strongly recommends not using it in 2 cycles. My last weed eater lasted 20 years with no problems. I replaced it since it was a "cheapie" and I felt I needed something a bit larger for my acreage. My chainsaw is 13 years old. My father has 2 chainsaws which are long lived. He had problems with two prior saws, when using E-10. Neither lasted much more than 3 years.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:50 01/18/18) We have been running E-10 in our gasoline powered tractors since first introduced in Minnesota in the 1980's in the tractors we use regularly. These two are an H Farmall for mowing and a 3020 John Deere yard/loader tractor. I DO use the 91 octane premium in the parade/show tractors simply because the fuel will sit in the tank and not get used very rapidly. I have had a tractor get a carburetor "gummed up" a bit with old E-10 fuel if it sat too long. This was an older 656 Farmall.

I DO use E-10 in my 425 John Deere lawn and garden tractor, which I have had for about 10 years. It gets 60 hours per year put on the hourmeter.

The 91 octane premium gasoline in Minnesota tends to run at least 60 cents a gallon more versus E-10. In the town where I live near, I am unable to find a single fuel station which offers non-ethanol fuel. I have to buy it by the 5 gallon can in another nearby town, but the little bit I use, it is not a huge inconvenience.

I WILL NOT use E-10 in any 2 cycle engine, which includes an outboard motor, weed eater, and a chainsaw. My small engine mechanic strongly recommends not using it in 2 cycles. My last weed eater lasted 20 years with no problems. I replaced it since it was a "cheapie" and I felt I needed something a bit larger for my acreage. My chainsaw is 13 years old. My father has 2 chainsaws which are long lived. He had problems with two prior saws, when using E-10. Neither lasted much more than 3 years.

I HAVE used E10 in 2 cycle engines. Dirt bikes, chainsaws, and weed-eaters. Never had a problem.
 
I'm greatful for all your helpful feedback.

From what I've read and on thinking about my situation it sounds like I should avoid the E-10 gas, at least for now. Our summers in Wisconsin can be really humid. Then added to that these two machines will have some long rest periods in between working seasons.

Thanks again everyone.
 
I haven't had any problems with E10 in old tractors. Biggest problem is when the fuel is in tanks that get rained on such as left out lawnmowers and such. Any moisture leaking in causes problems. Interestingly though is that the ethanol grabs the water once you mop it out the problem is gone. IMO it causes *less* corrosion in carbs and such because the moisture has interacted with the ethanol rather than the metal parts. It makes a cloudy mixture that settles to the bottom and blocks off fuel jets and lines.

Before the ethanol mixed fuel I saw plenty of rusted up gas tanks and corroded fuel parts on cars, tractors and other equipment caused by old gas left to sit. Old gas sitting in tanks and fuel systems is just bad without regard to the ethanol.
This problem has been around long before E10 showed up.
 
I run the E-10 stuff in all my tractors and do not have any problems and here in Missouri it is humid. I do not let it sit in the tank for long and never dump the whole jug of gas in so that way if it has any water in it the water does not get in the tractor tank.
 
Tractor my not run well when you begin to use Ethanol because it will dissolve all the gunk in your fuel system and may clog your fuel filter.
 
(quoted from post at 21:02:17 01/18/18) Tractor my not run well when you begin to use Ethanol because it will dissolve all the gunk in your fuel system and may clog your fuel filter.

Yea I heard that ethanol acts like a cleaner. I guess it gums it up when it breaks all the junk up. E-85 might make a good parts cleaner.
 
No problem in any of mine. 1 super m, 1 h,
and 3 cubs. I use a good fuel additive.
Whether it helps or just costs me money I
don't know. I use lucas fuel additive and
when shutting down for the winter I use
Stabil. No problems yet.
 
I used E10 in my old Farmalls and Allis, if you let them sit a lot dump some Stabile in the tank - and that's not bad advice even if you aren't using E10 - all gas gets old.
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:54 01/19/18) I used E10 in my old Farmalls and Allis, if you let them sit a lot dump some Stabile in the tank - and that's not bad advice even if you aren't using E10 - all gas gets old.

I've honestly never used stabil before in my seasonal small engines. I never noticed a difference from summer to summer with the push mower. I'd like to try an experiment with that sometime.

This will be my first time in about 15 years of having a large engine sit idle.
 
I used Stabil for years in small engines till I had to replace a carb on a garden tractor that run on ethanol gas and float needle seat
got corroded ( seat part of carb body ) and cost $250.00. I now use a fuel stabilizer from Briggs & Stratton that combats the corrosive
effect of ethanol gasoline and keeps gass fresh for 3 yeas. I now use it in all my tractors all year round.
 
Well, I use E-10 in everything, that?s all we have here in Western NY in most areas. It works fine. Don?t let it sit in the carb too long, gums up.
Likes to ?make? water in your fuel tank where the weather gets colder and rainy. We use K100 additive.
 
After reading some added posts, I wanted to share a personal story of mine on fuel. The year after my wife and I married (1995), I purchased a self propelled lawn mower from a discount fleet and farm store we have where I live. It was one of those made by MTD, the company of numerous brands. The mower has a 6.5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine with the overhead valve style engine. From day one, that mower had a very small leak in the fuel line from the tank to the carburetor. I was puzzled why every time I went to use it, the tank was dry. I would put some gasoline in the tank and mow all I had to mow. When I was preparing it for another mowing season, I looked it over and could not find anything very obvious as to the cause of this. One day I happened to squeeze the fuel line a bit and gasoline came out of a small crack in the line, which apparently had been there since day one. I never particularly cared for this mower much, because it is either set up for bagging or mulching. There is no side discharge. I typically am unable to mow often enough to properly mulch, so this engine works pretty hard when mulching. I haven't kept this mower maintained quite like my rider/tractor mower, but the fact there never is any stale gasoline in the tank and the fuel line, it starts amazingly well. Last year, I put a pint of gasoline in the tank, no apparent leakage out of the cracked line like always, press the primer button 3 times, pull the rope once and the engine starts to fire right away. If it doesn't start on the first pull, it will always start on the second. The mower has the original spark plug, which I cleaned up and re-gapped twice. Again, this is not how I take care or maintain my equipment, and this mower used to mow a 50 x 175 city lot for the first 12 years, but has been used primarily for trimming around trees and other obstacles since.
 
Had a chainsaw with a rubber screw in cap. I used ethanol one season cutting firewood & every time I went to fill it I had to use a screwdriver to open the cap and it was hard to screw back on. The next year I had switched back to no ethanol gas & had no problem with taking the cap off or screwing it back on. That proved to me what it does to rubber. All my hand start tractors don't like it, my kick start Harley Shovelhead really hates it, & would not put it in a carburetor engine. Injected engines are a sealed system and will get lousy mileage (have seen 4-5 mpg drop in both cars with ethanol) but will run it with no problem. I use an 8n Ford to mow with and (with ethanol) would have to drain the water out of the card at least once a year. If I had to use it I would be adding some kind of snake oil. If you haven't guessed by now, I hate the stuff.
 
I have been using the cheapest regular gas with "up to 10 % ethanol" since it became the norm. In all my gas tractors,
chainsaws, generators, outboard motors, etc. ZERO problems - even with some stuff that sits 6-8 months with no use. I DO
use Stabil. I recently started a generator with 3 year-old gas in it and it started and ran fine. Gas looked a little dark
though.

I hear all sorts of doom and gloom about the gas with ethanol. Have not witnessed any of it first hand and tend not to
believe it.

I pulled a 1979 280ZX Datsun out of my barn recently and it had 10 year old gas in it. I dosed it twice with Stabil over the
years. To my surprise -it started and ran pretty good. Being 10 years old, that gas might of been ethanol-free. I wonder
if the new stuff can last 10 years like that?
 

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