Help Identify Tractor?

HI All,
Brand new to the forum and the world of old tractors. I found this in northern UT while looking at a property for sale. It hasn't moved in 4-5 years and the owners know little to nothing about it. It doesn't run as of now, but it looks like all the pieces are there, and my past experience with old engines is that they usually just need some TLC.

Can anyone shed some light on this? I'm looking any information you might have regarding the year, engine, model, etc.

And, if you can, any idea what something like this is worth?

Thanks in advance..
Steve
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9150.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9151.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9152.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9153.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9154.jpg"/>

Farmall C tractor with aftermarket three point hitch.Scott

C/Super C. 48 to 53.SN/ID tag is on the right side of the seat support box.

Thanks Scott.

Looks like manufactured between 1948-1951 then? Appreciate the quick reply.

--Steve

Date code on the bell housing implies 1950.

(quoted from post at 21:30:04 01/14/18) HI All,
Brand new to the forum and the world of old tractors. I found this in northern UT while looking at a property for sale. It hasn't moved in 4-5 years and the owners know little to nothing about it. It doesn't run as of now, but it looks like all the pieces are there, and my past experience with old engines is that they usually just need some TLC.

Can anyone shed some light on this? I'm looking any information you might have regarding the year, engine, model, etc.

And, if you can, any idea what something like this is worth?

Thanks in advance..
Steve
&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9150.jpg"/&gt;

&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9151.jpg"/&gt;

&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9152.jpg"/&gt;

&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9153.jpg"/&gt;

&lt;image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9154.jpg"/&gt;

Click to expand...

you have a Farmall C. look at the breaks: band breaks, and straight break peddles. a super C has disk breaks and curved break peddles

bass
53super C

Since a newbie probably can't tell the difference, Band and disk brakes can be identified by the style of cover.

Band brakes have what looks like a lightweight tin pan covering the brake with a lever on the side. Disk brakes use a heavy casting that is held on by 5 or 6 bolts depending the tractor, with a rod coming straight out the lower front of the casting that attaches to the brake pedal.

There are multiple visual clues to identify a C vs. a Super C. To those experienced with these models, the differences are fairly clear. But they are not to the unfamiliar. Ones that can be seen in these pictures include:
- brakes
- pedals
- height of gas tank/hood/grill
- steering wheel
- date codes
In this case, all those clues say C, not Super C.
A few early/late differences that don't line up with the model change are the tool box and generator. Those both agree with 1950 C as well.

Nobody addressed value. Generally, people come up around $500 for a non-running tractor of that sort. The rear tires look real good. Tires are expensive, so if they are as good as they look, add some.

It has been noted there is a 3-point hitch, which some would add for. (If the tractor turns out to be junk, you can get a couple hundred for the hitch.) However, that "3-point" looks to me like it might be implement specific "attaching parts" for some 3-point implement. If so, it may not be very friendly as a general purpose hitch. It does bring up the question, is there an implement somewhere there? If they didn't have some scrapper "clean the place up", you might find something like a nice Danuser blade.

While it is not running as long as the engine isn't froze up (seeping head gasket) I would be more willing to go higher than normal on the typical non-running tractor. This one appears to have been stored inside, driven to its final resting place and has good tires. To many times the non-runners were parked where they quit or were towed to once the price of repairs was deemed to much. Then left outside (with or without a muffler cover) while the tires rotted off them. I have a feeling the biggest issue you'll have with this one is cleaning the carb and gas tank.

Thanks a million to y'all. I'll have a look around the garage area to see if there are some implements around.
I'll be sure to post more pics and more questions if I pull the trigger on it.

--Steve

one little tidbit of advice. if you do the deal and and go to get it, do not attempt to get it running at the sellers place. heard too many horror stories of guys that buy it, get it started to load it and the seller changes their mind, because, now, they have a running tractor. winch it up on the trailer, strap it down and skeeter down the highway.

Good point! We bought a Cub Cadet lawn tractor a few years ago, guy didn't know what was wrong, when he turned the key nothing happened. We paid him $50 for it and pushed it in our trailer, when we got it home I jumped the solenoid and it started, it was just a fuse!

(quoted from post at 08:04:06 01/15/18) one little tidbit of advice. if you do the deal and and go to get it, do not attempt to get it running at the sellers place. heard too many horror stories of guys that buy it, get it started to load it and the seller changes their mind, because, now, they have a running tractor. winch it up on the trailer, strap it down and skeeter down the highway.

Click to expand...

Good advise. I just bought a 47' M, and after 2 hrs to get it started, he tried to back out.

Those rear tires are worth about $500 just by themselves.