784 Brakes

I will be doing a brake job on my 784 and I have a few questions.

1 If I don't drain the oil how much oil can I expect when I take it apart to get to the brakes?

2 Anything I would need to pay extreme attention too when taking it apart?

3 Besides the parts that are visibly worn or damaged anything else I would need to change?

Thanks in advance for any/all help,
David G.

The I-T IH202 says nothing about having to drain any oil when doing the brakes. Even the how to do it is not all that long of a paragraph

You have to drain the oil you got to remove the fuel tank and fenders and the parts you?re probably replacing is the piston O-rings

With all due respect, IH 202 says to get to brakes the final drive has to be removed (paragraph 122), 117 says to remove final drive the oil needs to be drained.
To drain oil I would have to remove drawbar, (work) the plug is above it. This is the reason for wanting to know how much oil I would be getting when removing final drive.

Correct me if I'm wrong,
David G.

Well all I did was look it up I did not read much of what is said so yes I could well have missed something

There is drain plug at right side at bottom leave the fenders on the fuel tank used two straps to lift the tank in hook all the fuel lines and wires on fuel sender I have done Several of them At the dealership it just take time

The answer to, "How much oil?" is "All of it." You probably want to drain first.

9-10 Gallons

Thanks to everyone for the help. Wasn't up to draining all of the oil, but, looks as though this is the best thing for me to do.

David G.

Usually on this series tractor,I start by steam cleaning every thing around the rear of the tractor,then draining the fuel tank,and the whole tranny/rear end-there are usually 2 or 3 drain plugs and I drain them all.I will also replace the hydraulic filter. While everything is draining,I remove a wheel on 1 side.I remove the seat and seat platform.Then, if it has a roll bar remove that,(assuming no cab),drop off the lower hitch links, and anti sway brackets from under the axle.Unbolt,and lift off the fuel tank when done draining.On the left side,there are 2 hydraulic lines that have to be removed.Then you can remove an axle housing.I like to do one side at a time.The only thing I have ever seen bad are the o rings,and you can't see any real problem with them,except some flattening.The disc will be ok usually.You can remove the axle bearing retainer,there is an o ring behind there that also seals the piston .The new one has to be stretched to reassemble.
Now all that said,what is the problem?You can check the master cylinders first by plugging the line to the piston.Can you bleed the brakes,and get them to work?Then it probably is the brake pistons.But if the master cylinders are leaking,then replace them first.That is easier done by removing the battery tray.
The axle brake piston job is not hard,but you need a forklift and/or a cherry picker to lift all the heavy stuff.And it is all heavy !Mark