Replaced MCV and all springs and o rings in MCV. Brakeswork, TA works(TA has had handle removed and is locked in direct.) steering is very stiff. I can hear the pump whining. Tried all solutions listed on other posts. Possible bad pump? Think not since brakes work. TA starts in low and it takes a while before it changes to direct (oil light stays on until TA changes to direct-remember it’s locked in direct). TA was behaving this way before the change of pump-main reason for change. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks in advance.
- Thread starter W6tractor
- Start date
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
I don't know the solution but I do know that if it starts out in "low" and then shifts into "high" after a few seconds by itself, you've got bigger problems than the steering hand pump. The whining indicates an obstruction somewhere preventing the hydraulic oil from flowing where it needs to go.
Beyond that, hopefully someone else will be able to provide some insight.
Beyond that, hopefully someone else will be able to provide some insight.
the tractor vet
Well-known Member
Well just replacing all springs and o/rings with out knowing what your doing will not solve your problems , and if you did not check pressure and flow then you were just throwing money at a problem hoping to solve it . With most spring kits you end up having to grind a couple coils of the pressure reg. spring as your pressure will be to high . a sticking flow control valve can drive ya to drink , a warpped baffle plate can cause loss of pressure inside the T/A , old hard o/rings on the tubes leading to the T/A it's self can leak . a half plugged steering orface can cause steering problems . since i can not do the checking and testing myself and only going by what your tryen to tell me we are just guessing . To work on the MCV's ya need calipers to masseur springs and a spring tester is a huge help for testing spring hight and load. , two pressure gauges and a TEST fitting is and other helpful tool. And the biggie is years of experience .
Vet, thanks for all the good info. As many people on this forum, I am an experienced shade tree mechanic. I don?t have access to all of the equipment that you refer to. I read what many others have said and tried to follow the advice I saw-hoping for a good outcome. What steps do you suggest other than going to a professional shop. Not sure the tractor is worth the cost of repairs in that case. Resources limited-help.
Following up on your comment about the TA being slow to lock up, let me explain how that
seemed to start and maybe that will help with the diagnoses. Tractor was working fine in direct
until I cleared some ditches with the FEL. Lofs of go toward go backward etc., some moderate
lifting, turning to get in position-nothing too remarkable. After that the oil tell light stayed on and
tractor seemed to stay in TA low until the tractor warmed up and rpm?s were up. When the tractor
shifted (on its own) to direct, the telllight goes out. Thought I had a leak at the hand pump,
replaced seals, but turned out it was hydraulic lines worn through and leaking. Based on other
articles, I suspected a worn out pump and possible problems with springs, prints etc. in MCV.
Steering was great prior to repairs. Trying to keep an old tractor going. All suggestions
appreciated. Thank you.
seemed to start and maybe that will help with the diagnoses. Tractor was working fine in direct
until I cleared some ditches with the FEL. Lofs of go toward go backward etc., some moderate
lifting, turning to get in position-nothing too remarkable. After that the oil tell light stayed on and
tractor seemed to stay in TA low until the tractor warmed up and rpm?s were up. When the tractor
shifted (on its own) to direct, the telllight goes out. Thought I had a leak at the hand pump,
replaced seals, but turned out it was hydraulic lines worn through and leaking. Based on other
articles, I suspected a worn out pump and possible problems with springs, prints etc. in MCV.
Steering was great prior to repairs. Trying to keep an old tractor going. All suggestions
appreciated. Thank you.
the tractor vet
Well-known Member
A pair of calipers won't break the bank as will a coup;e fittings and a coup;e hyd. gauges . One more thing are you 100% sure you have all the o/Rings inplace ?? Don't know where your from but probably not close to me .
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Along with what TV said, are you sure you got the springs in the right locations, and o-rings in place, as well as the gaskets not either torn out of location, or the correct gaskets.
Well I'm back after the cold weather and a bout with the flu. Bled the MCV at the rear port, unhooked lines to front bolster and moved wheels back and forth, added air to reservoir, pulled Relief valve-cleaned replaced o ring and reinstalled. No joy. Pulled the MCV again yesterday looking for torn gaskets, missing/torn o rings etc. Nothing obvious. . I checked the plastic control valve in the frame and it appears good. The parts diagram show an o ring that goes with it. Where does it go? Could that be the problem? Leaning toward a bad replacement pump as I can hear it whining while the tractor is running. If I can get gauges to check pressures, where exactly do they attach? Thanks in advance for your help.
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