Ignition switch broke on 450.. now, how do I hot wire it

While working on my gas 450 ignition switch, the key was frozen I couldn't get it out. It broke off in switch. Remember, it wasn't running before, i think the old switch wasn't working. I need to move the tractor, it's in the circle drive blocking it. How do i hot wire it with no ignition switch?
 
That is a very simple one. Run a wire from the ignition side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil. Ignition side of battery is non-ground and ignition side of coil is the wire NOT going to the distributor. Then depending on if it was key start or button start you hit the start button or if key type you jump from the small wire on the solenoid to the battery cable wire. Something I can pretty much do in my sleep and have done hundreds of times and had many people trying to figure out how I was driving there tractor back up out of where they got In trouble with it
 
Let?s simplify that a little leave positive and negative and ground words out of the equation as well as making a connection to the battery. Hopefully you have a test lead with two alligator clips on it. Simply connect one end to the starter terminal on the starter that the heavy battery cable in connected to. The other end to the coil terminal that as old describes does not connect to the distributor. Proceed with jumping the starter as old stated if the button doesn?t work once the jumper wire is in place. If the starter jumping is needed be very very sure the transmission is in neutral and the brakes are set before attempting this.
 
I say it the way I do because I have ran into more then one person who does not know which side of the coil is the ignition side so they hook it up to the distributor side and fry the points. Or thee try to hot wire it by hooking things up from the ground side and the of course no spark so no run. Shoot not long ago I showed a guy exactly how to hook it up and did so on his tractor as he watched me do it and he had to call me again and ask how
 
Original 450 switch is in the instrument and hydraulic enclosure above and to right of clutch pedal. Original only has a wire in and out. Just jump those two wires together. About any on off switch that fits hole will also work.
 

Gentleman, thanks for the info. I don't think there is anything original to this poor girl. She has been cobbled on for the last 60 years. She currently has/ had a ignition switch AND a starter button. Recently I parked her in the drive to get a drink and she wouldn't start. I've narrowed it down to ignition system. Today I broke the key off in the ignition switch and need it moved.
Thanks.
 
Not saying how you said it was wrong, I just never referred to the power side of the battery as the ...ignition side.. alhough by definition it is quite correct. I was just trying to make it as simple and clear as possible. Sounds like he got it to move for him and if I helped in anyway I am happy to provide that info.
 
I use the simple hot wire trick to narrow down point problems all the time and also use it when some one stalls one out and I does not start back up for them and the starter jumping trick also. I've had a good number of strange looks when I jump the starter on as machine as a way to trouble shoot safety switches etc.
 
Well did not say your where wrong either I just have found to explain it like I do more people understand it better and not do it wrong and fry the points which I have seen to many times and fried points can lead to smoked wires etc.
 
Ignition switch and starter button is stock.

The 400's had the turn-key-to-start switch, but on the 450's they switched to a separate starter button, which came on all the bigger IH tractors up until the 86 series.
 
My 450 has had a universal type switch added, starter works from the switch. The original switch and button are still there, someone may have just lost the key and added the other switch as a quick fix
 

Update, it started raining and my sciatica was killing me, so i left it for tomorrow. What puzzles me is the multiple positions on the switch. I know I set it at the third one then use the button to start it. Was this the original design?
I'm a big fan of having a key and a button to start... my nephews stayed with me and even being told to stay off the tractor i learned they had tried to start it but couldn't. Now I take the rotor bug when I leave it.
 

Barnyard, as I said earlier, everything else has been changed on Charlene, no reason why the ignition switch should be different.
 
Jim, did they all have the same key, and is it available? If someone just lost the original key on mine, maybe I could put it back stock, as the original switch and button are still there
 
In that era 90% of the major brands used the same key and switch assembly with no different keys. It prevented kids from
dangerous use, and common casual theft. Jim
answer here
 
Switch is easy to get to and replace.Just take panel with gauges out and is easy to reach.
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Thanks D, mine is where your cigarette lighter is, maybe easier to get to then yours.
Jim, mine was definitely a replacement, probably from a vehicle, cause it had too many positions. Working OT today and Friday, ill get back to it soon.
 
Mine also has the aftermarket switch where the lighter was, made me suspect that someone lost the original key and did a workaround
 

Looking closely I notice you have a different light switch. I have the silver 3 position turn knob. Of course it doesn't work.
 
When I was doing tractor I couldn't find a three position knob so I put in a three position push- pull switch. I now know where to get
original switch so some day when I have time I will change it out.
 
So, are the original keys available? I would like to see if mine could work with the original switch and push button
 
IH used the exact same ignition key from the 450 all the way through to the end in 1985.

Current IH part number is 131313C1 and if you give an experienced locksmith the code "A1146" they can program their key cutting machine to cut one for you.
 

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