1066 weak hydraulics

Fjs103

New User
hello
I have a 1066 that has very minimal to no hydraulic strength. I have replaced the hydraulic pump, the relief valve, the O-ring in the relief valve housing, rebuilt the spools in the valve body because they were leaking from behind the dust cap. i hooked it back up to my discbine and still nothing. it attempts to move the cylinder but I get about 1 inch of movement and thats all. It feels like there is no fluid being moved when i move the hydraulic levers next to the seat (not sure if that helps)?
looking for any advice possible, thanks in advance.
frank
 
I do not know that tractor as such but it is likely to have a hyd filter so have you service the filter??
 
Could be a problem under the top cover.My 1256 did that once. Seems a bolt on a 'valve' in side had broken and was letting the fluid escape. The repair required removeing the top.Pull the top link plate and look up,to the right.
 
Does steering,brakes and 3 point work?Not familiar with that model but check hydraulic couplers to make they are not blocking the flow of oil to implement.
 
yes brakes steering and three point all work. i actually just replaced all the couplers in the remotes to the new iso as well so everythings nice and tight there
 
I was thinking this was the next move. was hoping to avoid opening that can of worms but hopefully my answer is under there. im stumped
thanks
 
Real simple quick test here. Without the engine running, pull the aux valve lever you have hooked to your implement, (not hitch lever) and it has to latch and stay in place until you push it back into neutral. If it does not stay, you need to work on that valve linkage or valve. The tension for holding it is adjusted through that little cap in end of valve by turning screw inside .

Now, start your engine and again pull the lever (same one you have hooked to your implement) and it should stay there until implement is lifted on a normal operating valve. If the valve lever just stays there without holding it, you have a leak inside tractor, providing cylinder is not totally leaking right on through to return. If the lever will not stay, you have to hold it , you have a blockage in circuit to cylinder. Most likely the coupling but can be a check valve if equipped. You will hear tractor labor some also.

In other words, the lever on a normal operating tractor will stay until system pressure trips the internal unlatching mechanism and valve returns to neutral. A lever that just stays there tells you your system in not building pressure for various reasons.
 
Need to check flow and pressure at the remotes and see what you have.Think the 3 point hitch and remotes use the same pump.I don't know the system but it sounds like a relief valve or an issue in the remotes or how it relates to the 3 point hitch circuit.Need a service book to trouble shoot.
Paul
 
Since the 3PT works I would start with the couplers where you said you just changed them.If you are using the old tips with the point some times those will get out of align with the ball style causing just as you describe. If not them I would go with Pete's diagnosis. You could also look behind the top link of the 3PT. We have had the lever from the bottom shaft on the 3 Pt connecting to the top half of it get out of alignment and caused a similar problem. The u-bolt was loose down in the oil.
 
Pete, maybe I'm thinking all wrong, and I know you'll know for sure, but won't the position of the draft control or 3 point lever affect the hydraulics sometimes?
 
We can play this guessing game from now till the cows come home and with out hard facts as to pressure and FLOW none of us can wave a magic wand and make it right . Next did you replace the ends on the hoses to matchhing ends , if you are like most places ya got a bunch of mismatched hose ends on everything . when i go out on a Hyd. issure service call the vary first thing that comes out of my truck is my flow rater , i am the only one other then the dealers that has one around here that has a FLOW RATER , yea you can go buy a good liquid filled gauge that will read 5000 PSI and yes it will tell you what your pressure is but it will not tell you GPM or at what temp . I like to get the oil up to atleast 160-180 degrees then see what the pump and pressures are doing . So it's like this you can beat your head against the wall come on here ask keep asking questions and get 1500 different answers and still not solve your problem or ya can either take it to a good dealer or place that knows the I H tractors , get someone that has the proper equipment to come out and pay him to see what is going on and be done with this .
 
You are correct on the position of the position control lever affecting the hydraulics. If the position control lever is pushed way down into the action control section at the bottom of the quadrant it will dump off most of the oil to sump. But, he said he moved the levers close to seat and I assumed he meant hitch levers. Hard to say for sure which levers he moved but I guess I should have added to make sure the hitch position control lever was not all the way down. As for draft control lever, would not matter. If it was pulled all the way up, hitch would be almost to the top but would not affect flow to aux valves unless something was completely out of wack making the relief valve open, but , aux valves would still work as long as the implement he was trying to life did not require full relief valve pressure.
 
Dang, should have also added , if hitch system has sequential control plug in instead of simultanus plug, the hitch being all the way up due to linkage or valve problems, he would not have flow to aux valves.
 

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