One last post on the cold weather starting project...

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
Around 30 today and the 300u was a reluctant start. So now I have a pretty good feel for how it likes the weather. At 40 it starts all day. At 30 it starts with fluid. At 20...well...best to go to the east door and fire up the Ford diesel utility cause it ain't happening. I still have this hydraulic pump drag every 5-6 seconds and this is a hindrance to keeping it running cold because it loads the engine before it is fully warm and can cause a stall. Other than that it works pretty much like the other old gas tractors here when it gets really cold. A few guys thought I was not choking it properly but, while I appreciate the help, I have over 20 pieces of equipment with manual choke and I am pretty talented at feathering a choke to get what I want. I can chase down all the issues mentioned in the prior posts but, honestly, this is a worker and needs to work when I need it. Since it is perfectly willing to start when it is warm, I think the solution is to make it think it is warm. So my plan is to plumb a circulating tank heater using the drain behind the carb as inlet and the hole where the temperature gauge threads in as the outlet. Plug it in when I am going to need it and I should be good to go. I was supposed to do this two years ago but was WAY too busy with combining the last two years. Below is the link from back then with the instructions. So that is the plan! :)
300u block heater
 
I have a 300 row crop, it has a pertronics kit in the distributor and is twelve volts. It has never failed to start in cold weather. I live in Iowa and it gets cold here too. I guess an engine heater would be ok but it's never been needed!
 
The hydraulic issue is a result of the system going on demand. The safety regulator valve is located between the rear hydraulic valve, and the reservoir casting (sandwiched in there). Inside it is a pilot valve that dumps pump pressure until the levers are moved. It moves in response to pressure changes as the handles are moved or the steering is turned (if PS). this valve has a screen in front of it, and it has a drilled orifice through the middle. If the screen is plugged (even partially) it will pulse. If the orifice is restricted it will pulse. The orifice can be drilled bigger to assist in keeping it from pulsing .040" is absolute maximum. Jim
 
Hi back in the late 1950s when we had an IH 300U we would leave it at the wood lot most of the winter. No block heater or electricity within 2 miles. We would park it under a spruce tree pointing down a steep hill. One winter I remember it was really cold -25F to -30F at night. Only once we had to let it roll down the hill and pop the clutch in 5th gear to start it. As I remember even though we had the front grill almost covered, the carb would frost and you had to feather the choke until the engine was warmed up. Of course the 300U had only about 1,000 Hrs on it at that time.

So when a 300U was new with the original 6V battery they would start in the cold of eastern Ontario, Canada.

JimB
 
This tractor also used to sit outside and it started great in the winter. I have done a lot of work on the electrical side to get it starting better but it still cranks a little slow when it is REAL cold. All new cables. Starter was looked over at the shop and passed. New solenoid. I stopped there because I found about a quarter cup of water in the carb and after that it started a lot better. I dunno. I have so many jobs to do and I just think if it wants to be warm...let it be warm. :)
 
I will look into that. I am all for electronic ignition if it needs to work. Like points if it is a toy. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Jim, thanks for the info. I have that on my list to do. Can't stand that five second surge. I'm gonna give the screen and orifice a spray and see does it help. If not I will see can I get a shop to drill it out for me. I don't think I am going to be successful with that small a drill. I am a little leery of the dismantle. Someone said there was a big spring in there might give me some trouble. Haven't had time to look at the parts manual to see.
 
Dave,

I believe putting the block heater on will solve all of your 300U starting problems in cold weather. I put that block heater on my 300U when my dad purchased it in 1966 when he had dairy cows. I don't use it much any more, but I always plug in the heater if I have to start it when the temperature is below 40. It also helps if you put a charger on the battery when the temperature is really cold. By the way, the link you posted is the pictures I took for you a couple of years ago. Al
 
Not a "big" spring Dave. Just one that you have to be aware of so stuff doesn't fly all over. If and when you have to take the covers off on the valving, loosen the bolts so you habe about a quarter inch threaded out above the cover, then pry the cover loose from the body. That will prevent the sudden fling of parts when you take the bolts out, then tap the cover to get the gasket loose. THAT, is when you don't want to find out there is a spring in there, because thats when you'll have airborne parts.
 
hi dave my dad has a 504 that does the same thing. some things i do is put a quart of marvel mystery oil in the crankcase this will thin the oil a little and help things slide easier. also add it to the gas it makes the gas burn slower for easier starting . it also helps to keep the upper end lubricated . an old IH mechanic told me to put the shift in neutral and not to push the clutch in when starting says they turn over easier. on the 504 we have to leave the choke a quarter way out most of the time till it gets warmed up then it runs fine. on some of the early t.a. models there is a pto disconnect under the clutch housing shifting this to the off position would lower the drag on the engine.
 
I was really hoping you would figure this problem out as I have the same with my 400. My 400 is in good shape with new wiring and on 12 volt. I really think it's something with the carburetor. i just choose to use the 560 more in the winter. It has a better seat anyways.
 
Pushing the clutch removes the entire transmission from cranking with the engine. The oil in the trans (though Hytran in this case) is still a drag on the engine. The countershaft is spinning submerged in oil. Your source was mistaken. Jim
 
we have always left the clutch out when staring the M super C 200 and the 504 just seems to work better for us . while you are correct pushing in the clutch stops the input shaft from turning it puts drag on the throw out bearing and in turn pushes the crankshaft up against the thrust washers creating more drag on the crankshaft.
 
Test the reality. Assuming the hand crank works, or that you have a clip on or hold against the wire amp gauge, check it both ways. I go with the clutch down. Jim
 

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