460 Farmall Clutch & Hydraulic Problems

I’m visting my father in law in Minnesota and he purchased a 460 and loader to help move hay. Tractor is a real sweet heart she runs great and steers great. T/A is good. When you get ready to put the tractor in gear you can can either grind it into gear for probably 5 minutes or shut it off and put it in your desired gear and start again. The clutch is at the very bottom 1-2” of the pedal. If you barely let off it’s moving at full speed for the gear. I’m thinking the cutch needs to be adjusted? We have ordered a manual but it won’t be in until I’m back southern Indiana so I can’t read a manual and do it. If anyone knows what’s wrong or if it’s adjusting the clutch can you describe the process on a 460 please?

The tractor has a really nice Du-Al loader on it that works pretty decent. When the loader is just resting (not being used) I keep hearing a chirp from the hydraulic pump ever 5 or so seconds. Sometimes it’s faster sometimes I don’t think it’s even doing it depending on where the loader is. I think it may be low on oil. Where should I look to see the level and if it’s low what does everyone recommend to put in it? Or is this a different problem. The loader is being run on the hydraulic sticks on the right side of the dash (orginal equipment levers).

Any help would be appreciated. It’s not a John Deere or a Massey so I’m a little out of place on this one. Thank you guys so much.

The freeplay is an inch to an inch and a quarter from the pedal to the platform. The TA adjust actions in the system
are as follows:
With the tractor moving (lets say 2nd gear in direct, TA lever forward) as you step on the clutch pedal the freeplay is
first taken up by about 1.25 to 1.5 inches of easy movement. At that point the main clutch throwout bearing starts to
push the main clutch fingers.
As the pedal is pushed farther, the main clutch disengages (about 2.5" or so).
At that point the tractor stops.
As the pedal is pushed farther, the TA clutch Throwout bearing is pushed against the TA clutch fingers. The TA rod and
linkage have been moving in a slotted link, and it has reached its limit.
Now as more pedal travel is used (maybe 4 ") the TA clutch becomes fully disengaged. THis releases the forces on the TA
sprague clutch, and the tractor can ro;; backwards.
The TA clutch should release with at least 1.5" of travel left on the pedal. Jim

Could your clutch disc be stuck to the pressure plate? When driving, does the clutch
release, when you step on the pedal?

I agree with adjusting the clutch and t/a clutch as Janicholson states. Easy way to check is with tractor off go to the linkage on the clutches. Take the spring off so the both clutch shafts can turn freely.
Rotate the main clutch so the throw out bearing touches the fingers or in other words take up the slack. Once at that point rotate the T/A shaft until the play is out also. At that point the pin in the clevis
that has the oval slot the pin should just slide in. Shorten the linkage if necessary. As Jim points out the T/A needs to release very soon after the main clutch does but not before.
The hydraulics can be the orifice in the flow control may be getting plugged at the screen. A manual will help with the work. A little bit of going on high pressure will not destroy the system but you don't
want to let it go too long. It is going on high pressure when it chirps. I am working on two 560 that one is exactly the same and the other is just staying on high pressure so I have them parked until fixed.
Good luck

Grinding transmissions into gear is never a good thing. Try pulling the TA lever back when shifting into
or out of gear. Clutch and TA out of adjustment normally cause trans to be hard to shift out of gear as
well as grind going into gear. Pulling TA back relieves that problem. But adjusting by the book is the
best fix.

PETE23 on here has best advice of how to adjust if lots of wear in linkages.

Pulling the TA lever won't make a bit of difference in the grinding. That only helps if you have to ram the lever to get the tractor out of gear, and indicates that you need to adjust your clutch and TA.

While it's certainly possible that the clutch has way too much free pedal travel, it's not likely. Free play tends to decrease as a clutch wears, not increase. Checking it out is free and worth a shot, but I expect the tractor is going to need a new clutch.

When buying a tractor, beware when you're told something "just needs adjusted." If all it needed was adjustment, why didn't they do it before they put the tractor up for sale?

If the Throwout bearing is bad, it will wear the fingers on the pressure plate and the combination will cause extreme
freeplay. Jim

Good point Jim, but if you're going in there to replace the throwout bearing, unless you have the facilities and just plain enjoy splitting tractors, I would recommend replacing the entire clutch and pressure plate assembly while the tractor is split.

Odds are if the throwout bearing is chowdered from excessive contact with the clutch fingers, the clutch fingers are equally chowdered.

(quoted from post at 20:53:16 12/18/17) If the Throwout bearing is bad, it will wear the fingers on the pressure plate and the combination will cause extreme
freeplay. Jim

Click to expand...

Who do recommend to do the clutch in it? He’s west of you about 30-35 miles

(quoted from post at 09:24:31 12/19/17)

(quoted from post at 20:53:16 12/18/17) If the Throwout bearing is bad, it will wear the fingers on the pressure plate and the combination will cause extreme
freeplay. Jim

Click to expand...

Who do recommend to do the clutch in it? He’s west of you about 30-35 miles

Click to expand...

EAST not West. I’m sorry.

If East of St cloud, You will need to find a local mechanic. Dealers are in The cities, and St. Cloud. Jim