Farmall H rods


The bearing was really worn out and chewed the crank up past the point of being able to turn it. And the bearings were loose in the rod Journal. I wanting to make sure it didn’t slightly egg hole the rod where the bearing halves go.
 
I always resize them on these old
engines. If one has spun it gets
pitched and replaced. We really can't
expect these housing bore sizes to be
true after 70 years.
 
Any time the insert gets loose, there is enough impact to deform the rod big end. If dramatic, it could be junk. if within .0015: I would probably resize it. Jim
 
I would find a machine shop that can re-size the big ends. Then present yourself as if they are the ones who will get the job if it needs done. I?m sure they can get you the tolerances you are looking for. Now Gene, I don?t know you personally, but only by what I have gleaned from your posts here. I take it you are heavily into the A, B, Cub and possibly C models. Now realistically an H connecting rod is not that different from one in a C or an A or B for that matter it just has a little more bulk. You said the OP should say his ?insert is bad? well no he meant what he said. The crankshaft end of the rod has a manufacturing finished bore min. max. and out of round(OOR or egg shape) tolerance it had to meet when it was made at the factory. And yes as we all know the complete history of what has been done to an engine and how it has been treated during its life is generally a large unknown. So, apparently have never had to stand behind the major ovehaul of a DT466 with $5-7000 put in it. In such case you definitely spend the extra $500 bucks or so to get the big end of the rods resized back to original specs and get the wrist pin ends rebushed and fit. This precaution helps you to not have the engine come back with a nice window in the side to look in and see the quality level (or lack there) of the work you completed. I do agree an H is far less particular to being spot on for these tolerances, but it still has them. Note: This was posted from an iPhone on Classic View. If you are viewing this on Modern View some punctuation may be garbled. Switch to Classic for proper viewing. YT Support is working on this issue.
 
that is automatically a junked rod,... or resized if acceptable. if the rod got hot its junk.
 
Here is the housing bore spec. 2.450-
2.451. This is with rod torqued to
spec, and measured with a good quality
dial bore gauge or preferably a sunnen
ag gauge not with calipers. Good luck.
 
Grind a few thousands from the cap to
decrease bore size then hone or bore to
spec. On diesel engines you have to be
careful because this shortens the rods
some, especially if has been done
before.length can be corrected when
the pin bushing is bored. I wouldn't
worry about this much in an old gas
engine.
 

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