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1066 flow test.

F

fordfx413

Member
I have a 1066 and need to flow test the hitch pump. What is
the best way to do a flow test on these tractors? I had the flow
tester plugged into the outlets and was getting 12 Gpm at 0psi
when I took it to 1000 psi the valve kicked out. Is that normal?
Do I need to tie back the lever so it won't kick out? I did check
the relief valve and by eye it looks ok. Any help will be great.
 
The pressure that the lever kicks out on is dependent on the setting of the detent spring through the little hole in back of the valve. Theoretically, it should kick out a couple hundred psi below the maximum relief valve pressure. Nothing to be concerned with as far as testing the flow as you will definitely have to hold or tie the lever back on demand.

Then you check max relief valve pressure which should be in the vicinity of 2000 or 2200 psi on a 1066. After establishing max relief valve pressure you run your flow test at about 250 psi below the relief valve pressure. A good pump will deliver near 80 percent flow at that pressure as the free flow of zero pressure with oil warmed up to a reasonable operating temperature.
 
On that remote Val there is a plug take the plug out screw it in just a little with the RPMs about half throttle check you kick out pressure then keeps created in about 1800 psi or lower with the flow rator holding the handle back Crank it down until the pressure which stop raising in the flow starts dropping and that will tell you your psi and your flow
 
(quoted from post at 16:24:12 12/11/17) I have a 1066 and need to flow test the hitch pump. What is
the best way to do a flow test on these tractors? I had the flow
tester plugged into the outlets and was getting 12 Gpm at 0psi
when I took it to 1000 psi the valve kicked out. Is that normal?
Do I need to tie back the lever so it won't kick out? I did check
the relief valve and by eye it looks ok. Any help will be great.
Click to expand...

Plug into the test port on the hitch pump mounting plate, send return to filler pipe. Remove the bolt at the rear of the hitch control quadrant to allow moving the position control handle past the stop. This will put the hitch on demand and force all flow through the flow rater. This test will show full pump flow.

Set engine RPMs at rated PTO speed. With oil heated, you should see a minimum 10 GPM at 1800 psi. (assuming a standard pump)
 
No need to do that on a 1066. That method only applies to
tractors with dual pumps with one of them suppling hitch to
isolate hitch pump from main pump.
 
Thanks for the info guys. One thing I forgot to mention when I checked the hydraulic filter, behind the thin metal cover the square o-ring was cut and a chunk missing. Would that cause weak hydraulics? I did install a new one. Before they had the tractor on a feed wagon and would start the motor for the augers and hydraulics would quit. So far flow testing the gallons have been above 10. Still warming oil up though.
 
Update. After I got the oil to operating temp. At about 2200 rpm with the lever tied back I slowly increased pressure about 1800 psi it started to drop around 10. 1900 started dropping even further. I could not get pressure past 1900 psi. Flow dropped past 8 gpm
 
Ten gals flow at that pressure is pretty good. Your relief valve is probably a little on the low side but it will depend on what you are lifting weather or not it will do the job.
 
(quoted from post at 08:22:06 12/12/17) No need to do that on a 1066. That method only applies to
tractors with dual pumps with one of them suppling hitch to
isolate hitch pump from main pump.
Click to expand...

That test was used all the way through the 86 series open center tractors as a more sure way to test full hitch pump flow.
 
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