Valve adjustment on my 656 with the d282

Ctg1984

New User
So I replaced the head gasket on my 656
and now I can't seem to get the valve lash
set right. I set them to 30 like the book
says and now I'm bending the #1 push rod.
Any help would be helpful thanks
 
(quoted from post at 21:56:16 12/07/17) So I replaced the head gasket on my 656
and now I can't seem to get the valve lash
set right. I set them to 30 like the book
says and now I'm bending the #1 push rod.
Any help would be helpful thanks

Not sure what book you're using... valve lash spec is .027" with "engine warm" which is defined as "any temperature above freezing"

Did you have any work done to the head while it was off that might have increased the valve protrusion?
 
Well first off ya need to figure out where #1 TDC is or #6 TDC then ya start . Back all the rockers off and watch the push rods as they move , When either 1 or 6 both push rods are at the same level and the timing pointer is at TDC then that is when that piston is at TDC and you start if your on 6 then you go by the book doing six valves in order as the BOOK say the you turn the eninge till you come back up on TDC and you do the next 6 . and they set at .027
 
Thanks I'll try that I'm sure i had it to TDC but could have been wrong and this is the d 282 diesel
 
Thanks for your help. I didn't have any
work done to the head besides I put a
strait edge on it and was fine. The book
is
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Even though D Slater is a very knowledgeable man on Farmalls I feel his reply needs some minor clarification. Anyone very knowledgeable about engines should be able to figure out top dead center of the compression stroke for number one cylinder by watching the valves and timing mark. However, some folks get a little confused so let?s just simplify it. As he was describing the ?valves being at the same height? on a cylinder is correct, but to clarify that more here goes. So when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is just starting to open that is the point he?s looking for. And I will suggest watching cylinder number six (back 2 valves) it is a running mate for cylinder number one they both go up and down simultaneously. When that cylinder has its valves in the position as described that is when cylinder ONE is on top dead center compression and should be able to find that by the timing mark. From that point set the valves as described by the book shown. Half of them on TDC of cyl. one and the other half after one crankshaft rotation to TDC of cyl. 6.
 
im quite sure that is a misprint... should be .027 hot. unless they just made that up as a cold adjustment for the first adjustment.but then it maybe a change also as the 282 has been out since 1959.valves must be set again after head retorque. kinda foolish not removing the valves to give it the proper inspection for valve and seat and guide wear when the head is already off. this plays a big role in the starting of these engines.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:33 12/09/17) im quite sure that is a misprint... should be .027 hot. unless they just made that up as a cold adjustment for the first adjustment.but then it maybe a change also as the 282 has been out since 1959.valves must be set again after head retorque. kinda foolish not removing the valves to give it the proper inspection for valve and seat and guide wear when the head is already off. this plays a big role in the starting of these engines.

The .030" spec is used when checking valve timing.

.027" is the correct setting for adjustment which should be done with the engine stabilized at a temperature above freezing.
 
(quoted from post at 09:55:31 12/09/17) Even though D Slater is a very knowledgeable man on Farmalls I feel his reply needs some minor clarification. Anyone very knowledgeable about engines should be able to figure out top dead center of the compression stroke for number one cylinder by watching the valves and timing mark. However, some folks get a little confused so let?s just simplify it. As he was describing the ?valves being at the same height? on a cylinder is correct, but to clarify that more here goes. So when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is just starting to open that is the point he?s looking for. And I will suggest watching cylinder number six (back 2 valves) it is a running mate for cylinder number one they both go up and down simultaneously. When that cylinder has its valves in the position as described that is when cylinder ONE is on top dead center compression and should be able to find that by the timing mark. From that point set the valves as described by the book shown. Half of them on TDC of cyl. one and the other half after one crankshaft rotation to TDC of cyl. 6.
I was doing some research and found this thread. sorry to dig up all threads but I am confused about the statement re D Slater......... is Tractor Vet the same guy as D Slater? both knowledgeable but from where I sit very different guys! Whats up with the quote?
 
(quoted from post at 23:56:14 09/19/21)
(quoted from post at 09:55:31 12/09/17) Even though D Slater is a very knowledgeable man on Farmalls I feel his reply needs some minor clarification. Anyone very knowledgeable about engines should be able to figure out top dead center of the compression stroke for number one cylinder by watching the valves and timing mark. However, some folks get a little confused so let?s just simplify it. As he was describing the ?valves being at the same height? on a cylinder is correct, but to clarify that more here goes. So when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is just starting to open that is the point he?s looking for. And I will suggest watching cylinder number six (back 2 valves) it is a running mate for cylinder number one they both go up and down simultaneously. When that cylinder has its valves in the position as described that is when cylinder ONE is on top dead center compression and should be able to find that by the timing mark. From that point set the valves as described by the book shown. Half of them on TDC of cyl. one and the other half after one crankshaft rotation to TDC of cyl. 6.
I was doing some research and found this thread. sorry to dig up all threads but I am confused about the statement re D Slater......... is Tractor Vet the same guy as D Slater? both knowledgeable but from where I sit very different guys! Whats up with the quote?
It appears that I have again been proven to be human, by flat out using the wrong name in my reply. Sorry for the confusion.
 
(quoted from post at 18:06:17 09/19/21)
(quoted from post at 23:56:14 09/19/21)
(quoted from post at 09:55:31 12/09/17) Even though D Slater is a very knowledgeable man on Farmalls I feel his reply needs some minor clarification. Anyone very knowledgeable about engines should be able to figure out top dead center of the compression stroke for number one cylinder by watching the valves and timing mark. However, some folks get a little confused so let?s just simplify it. As he was describing the ?valves being at the same height? on a cylinder is correct, but to clarify that more here goes. So when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is just starting to open that is the point he?s looking for. And I will suggest watching cylinder number six (back 2 valves) it is a running mate for cylinder number one they both go up and down simultaneously. When that cylinder has its valves in the position as described that is when cylinder ONE is on top dead center compression and should be able to find that by the timing mark. From that point set the valves as described by the book shown. Half of them on TDC of cyl. one and the other half after one crankshaft rotation to TDC of cyl. 6.
I was doing some research and found this thread. sorry to dig up all threads but I am confused about the statement re D Slater......... is Tractor Vet the same guy as D Slater? both knowledgeable but from where I sit very different guys! Whats up with the quote?
It appears that I have again been proven to be human, by flat out using the wrong name in my reply. Sorry for the confusion.
Digging up more old stuff, Jim Naden said "engine warm" being anything above freezing. Have I been running the engine to operating temp and scrambling to adjust the valves before they cool for no reason? If this is true, it would make my life MUCH easier!!!
 

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