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Whats there to going into a B Govenor?

F

Farmallb

Well-known Member
The lever that comes out of the governor has no tension on it whatsoever. Im thinking of taking a look inside. Whats involved to do that?
 
Yup thats what is wrong if the lever is loose. You will need to turn the fan blade to help getting the unit out dont move the gov gear as that will get the engine out of time.
 
Unless you're really ham-fisted the governor gear will stay in the engine when you remove the housing. When I had my Super C governor apart I couldn't even move the governor gear, let alone take it out of the engine to mess up the timing.

I also recommend replacing the thrust bearing while you're in there. It's not cheap but if you don't replace it now, you'll be replacing it shortly.
 
SO, It all adds up to a broken spring and a thrust bearing. Do I have to motivate anything inside to get to the spring? I saw a vid on U Tubes showing taking a C gov apart. Is the spring in a tube as on a C? Do I have to remove the radiator grill? Do I have to remove the hood? Do I have to remove the radiator??
 
No i have took a bunch apart just be careful turn the fan blade and you can remove it you will get some scratches but you will get it out
 
When you pull the governor housing off there isn't much inside, just a couple of levers and a spring. No tube, at least not on the ones I've worked.

The thrust bearing stays with the governor gear in the front of the engine.
 
When you get the housing off check the input shaft if its loose and wobbles you can take it to a machine shop and they can bore the hole to 5/8 then get a 5/8x 1/2 bushing at LOWES presdsit in and trim a little as its just a little too long. That will make the input shaft good again and helps throttle response good again.
 
I took the hood off and got ready to remove the grill, I started to take out the cotter key and 2 springs on the rod going from gov lever to gas lever at steering wheel, I noticed some tension. I walked around, and could move the lever coming out of the gov a inch, and it was under spring tension.
When its running, and it will run just fine for awhile, then the engine trys to climb out of the hood. I can stop that with a small spring attached to the rod where it is attached to the gov, but I get very little variation in speed ranges.
Sorry to mislead some of you by stating I could get no spring tension when grabbing the gov lever. I DID notice that while it was running.
PLEASE give me some advice quickly as its going to get darn cold next week, and id like to have this fixed and finished, as im working on it outdoors. Thanks.
 
Is the linkage between the governor and carb properly adjusted for length, and does it move freely without binding?
 
Now it sounds like the thrust bearing is out. Take it off & see what you find, also check on the pin in the shaft. It may be sheered off or missing.
 
I looked at the bearing. Not knowing what I would be looking at, Ill tell what I saw. it looked like one side of a ball bearing with no balls or the other side. I could tell that the spring in the shaft was good as I could push the pin in against it. The pin is around 2in long. One inch on the outside
 
well, it worked fine till it didn't.
I could, with it not running only move the shaft that had the rod going to the carb around 1in. With it running, it moved freely a couple inches.
 
I TOOK A LOOK AT THE INSIDE OF THE OUTSIDE HOUSING ON THE GOVONER TODAY. I NOTICWED THERE IS A LITTLE NIB STICKING UP FROM THE BOTTOM. ON THE CROSS SHAFT ATTACHES TO THE ARM THAT IS ATTACHED OUTSIDE TO THE ROD GOING TO THE CARB, THAT THERE IS A CHANNEL FOR THIS NIB TO PASS THROUGH. I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS AROUND 1/2IN OF SIDEWAYS SLOP, ALLOWING THE CHANNELS TO HIT THE NIB ON EITHER SIDE. I TOOK UP THE SLOP ON THE ARMS SIDE BY SLIDEING THE ARM TOWARDS THE HOUSING, BUT CANT FIGURE HOW TO TAKE UP THE SLOP ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CHANNEL AS THERES NO WAY TO TAKE THE SHAFT OUT AND BUSH IT UP THAT I CAN SEE.
 
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